Has anyone tried DRX to remove rust, or maybe electrolysis?
I've only watched manufacturer's video ads for DRX, one of them showing a small basically abandoned car with a lot of surface rust.
The tech sprays their product on the car, keeps it wet, then uses an electric pressure washer to spray off the product along with the rust.
The video ad makes it look good and easy, but I'm usually more skeptical than all-believing by nature.
For my task I have the four original steel wheels from my 57 that I planned to have blasted so I could clean and apply epoxy primer, then leave them sit until I get the entire car painted some year in the future.
Since blasting costs money, and most places I contacted give additional charges for blasting both sides, I started thinking the DRX may do well for my needs on the significantly rusted back sides. The good news is this doesn't seem to require me to buy a lot of expensive product to completely soak the wheel(s) for the process to work like some other products require.
So far my request to the DRX company yesterday on their website CONTACT feature asking for further details or suggestions for my task hasn't provided any response from them. I also haven't found any reviews by anyone that has used their product via my Google search.
The next alternative would be ELECTROLYSIS.
If you look at this first link to another discussion group you'll see how a member used this process to handle heavy rust inside a Cub Cadet tractor wheel where the liquid ballast leaked out of the inner tube and did a lot of damage to the inside of the wheel. (Post #10) https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18064
If you have a hard time connecting to this site (like my computer seems to be doing), look for the thread titled "Bead Vs. Sand Vs. Walnut Blasting vs. Other media".
This next link is a long video that describes the process for those of us slower on the upload of instructions. He's working on the top surface of a table saw soaking in a plastic swimming pool.
I doubt having too rich of a solution would be a bad thing, but best I can tell anticipate 1 TBLS Washing Soda / Gallon H20; and I'll need to use my older battery charger that doesn't require a signal from a battery before it will provide power like the newer fancy ones do.
According the the internet, in my area it looks like A/H Washing Soda is on the shelf in Walmart and Lowe's.
I used to restore old motorcycles. I used electrolysis to clean the rust out of all the fuel tanks. Works like a charm. Does not harm base metal. If it is heavily rusted, you may have to change the solution a time or two and replace the anode. It takes a while, but you don't have to watch it very closely. Sometimes I would just set it up and let it run all night.
I used TSP Substitute from Home Depot. The sacrifical anode I used was simply a length of 1/4" all thread also from Home depot.
When it is done the base metal is perfectly clean.
You have to coat it pretty quickly to avoid flash rust.
I used POR15 fuel tank sealer on the inside of the tanks and it worked well and I never had it fail.
Distilled Vinegar...$2.52 per gallon at Walmart.4 or 5 gallons in a tub, one or two rims at a time (depending on tub size.)Wire brush periodically and rinse with water.The vinegar will get to every nook and cranny and clean. When clean spray and wipe with phosphoric acid (Home Depot-$16.00/gal., but wont need very much).Will stay in bare steel indoors for awhile.If surface rust appears, spray and wipe with the acid again.I have parts in bare steel sitting on selves done more than a year ago.
Have had good luck with electrolysis .Work out side because it produces hydrogen gas.I built a large wood frame on the ground and lined it with plastic sheet.Filled with water,and laundry soda.Ran the battery charger over night,and it worked nice.One other method I will try in the future is citric acid.You buy it powered ,and mix with water.Others have posted pictures,and it looked to do a nice job.On a large item like a car body I think I would give DRX a try if only to see how well it did.