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New CPP Broken pitman Arm - BEWARE!

82K views 558 replies 75 participants last post by  trifive 
#1 ·
I bought an all new steering kit for my 56 as part of a ton of suspension/driveline/steering upgrades to make the car very modern to be my real, sole daily driver. Part of that was a 5557SLK-CP CPP steering kit (purchased via summit.) I had 2 issues with the kit.

First, one of the fancy tie rod sleeves had a burr on it about 1/2 way in. I was able to thread it easily by hand onto the tie rod ends, but it got slightly stiff. No biggie, better than stamped steel sleeves. I went to run it out some under the car and it bound, and i had to take it apart with 2 wrenches. It was stripped! The arms were fine, i bought another brand sleeves ($60+ >:-< ) and kept working. I DIDN'T cross-thread it, i want to be clear that i ran it most of the way by hand with no issues until just a bit of resistance about 1/2 way in. Nothing crazy.

The second happened today, after 500 miles of easy break in driving (new trans and engine, and brakes so have been just cruising around, some highway, some local.)

Anyways, went to back out of the garage this AM to go sled-riding, and i just have no steering. It's easy and no noise but no turning. I look under the hood expecting some kind of rag joint issue, and i see the pitman arm stud weld broke and it came out!

I swapped in the used factory one i had left over from the project, but WOW! Lucky it happened backing out! The stud slides in very easy by hand (which i'd think you'd make a press-fit and just weld for safety.) The weld end doesn't look like the weld bit into the stud AT ALL. Like the weld is all on the arm.

In the future, i'll be welding on top and on the stud side to be safe. Summit is 45 min from me, i checked, only the same arm in stock. No thanks.

The price of the arm is inconsequential to wasted time, possible death, loss of trust in the rest of the steering/other parts from CPP, and now my steering wheel is off center when straight so obv the arm is a little different than stock, so new alignment time.
 

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#437 ·
I replaced the arm with an original gm arm today. Definitely clocked steering wheel 1/4 turn. Clears my headers no problem, which was the original reasoning behind using the CPP. I received a refund from CPP today and tracking info for my "replacement". They also sent me a return label for the defective one. I think I'll be sending it to the NHTSA instead, along with info to link to this forum. I feel something needs to be done before someone gets killed. I simply do not understand a company that won't take this serious. Clearly they value profits more than their customers lives. I will post pictures of the failed part tomorrow. You can clearly see that all of the weld is still on the arm. It looks as if it's robot welded and simply not the correct circumference. The weld is completely on the outside of the arm and not on the ball stud.
 
#438 ·
I replaced the arm with an original gm arm today. Definitely clocked steering wheel 1/4 turn. Clears my headers no problem, which was the original reasoning behind using the CPP. I received a refund from CPP today and tracking info for my "replacement". They also sent me a return label for the defective one. I think I'll be sending it to the NHTSA instead, along with info to link to this forum. I feel something needs to be done before someone gets killed. I simply do not understand a company that won't take this serious. Clearly they value profits more than their customers lives. I will post pictures of the failed part tomorrow. You can clearly see that all of the weld is still on the arm. It looks as if it's robot welded and simply not the correct circumference. The weld is completely on the outside of the arm and not on the ball stud.
Sounds like they hired Stevie Wonder to do the welding.
 
#439 ·
impalaguy, if you send something to the NHTSA, they won't have a clue what to do with it.

bitchin57, I don't know what the ball size is, but the ball isn't going to wear in the fore/aft direction, only side to side. So most examples will measure "original" in one direction unless the ball is terribly egg shaped from many miles with no lube.
 
#445 ·
If you are really stuck having to use the CCP arm for whatever reason, and the roll pin is not a solution, I wonder if you could drill and tap axially between the stud and the arm in two different locations from the bottom of the arm so that half of the threads are in the arm, the other half are in the stud for the ball, then install some hardened allen set screws to keep the ball from turning, working itself out. I use to have to do that with some of my inline race motors to keep the cam gear in place on the cam. Then you could weld over that and the neck of the ball. If you really were stuck with the CCP part.
 
#451 ·
If the ball shank fits sloppy in the hole, welding is not necessarily a cure. And I'm pretty sure they are tending toward a cheap fix, i.e., not replacing the ball with one with a bigger shank along with machining the arm for a bigger shank so that the fit is tight.

There's also the issue of weld prep - laying a weld on top of a defective assembly is suspect also - there needs to be a deep V groove or a J groove so that there's plenty of weld area on both shank and arm.

I can't recall anyone describing what a replacement arm looks like, or even if they've received one. And there's been plenty of time now for them to have sent some out.

I think this has gone to 100% stonewall, which is what I originally expected. I was surprised there was any kind of response early on. Maybe the big boss didn't know about it then and shut it off.
 
#457 ·
I can't recall anyone describing what a replacement arm looks like, or even if they've received one. And there's been plenty of time now for them to have sent some out.
Post # 314, dated 2/11/17
My neighbor sent his back and got a new, welded on both sides, back right away. Looks to be a lot better penetration on the welds also.
The reworked arms are welded top and bottom and the welds look much better than the bottom only weld. Don't know about the pin fit???
 
#453 ·
This Inaction By CPP is terrible!

Are you able in the USA to report these actual failures and the failure to ensure remedial action to the law agencies (Police or FBI)?
 
#454 ·
Are you able in the USA to report these actual failures and the failure to ensure remedial action to the law agencies (Police or FBI)?
I'm not sure there is anyone to report it to here. As mentioned earlier the NHTSA would not have a clue what to do with it and I'm not sure the D.O.T. would either. I wonder if there is someone at SEMA that would have an idea of who to report it to that would actually pursue it. :dontknow:
 
#461 ·
I'm not sure there is anyone to report it to here. As mentioned earlier the NHTSA would not have a clue what to do with it and I'm not sure the D.O.T. would either. I wonder if there is someone at SEMA that would have an idea of who to report it to that would actually pursue it.
Thing is, SEMA is more geared to defend its members than to regulate or control them and I'm sure CPP is a member. I think the D.O.T. would be the same potential as NHTSA, though NHTSA is more concerned about tragedies while DOT will be more about regulations through FMVSS. I don't think the aftermarket is a concern of either one. Unlike the active aftermarket review that's in New Zealand and Australia. Remember the steering column deal where flaws from some mfr's/suppliers were pointed out (CPP was one). Nothing ever happened here in the US far as I know.
 
#465 ·
Even the box they sent it in had ( fragile handle with care ) I am not and well not be using it have my original one ! Later Jason
Better to ask a seasoned welder, but that top weld doesn't look to me like it has any penetration. Right in the front of that pic is a spot that really stands out. Looks more like it was ground out and filled in, no penetration.
 
#476 ·
Many vendors are still selling the CPP pitman arm with the welded on stud ball, including SUMMIT.... for about $43...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-Per...ash=item5b07b2dd76:g:3XYAAOSwZjJU~77v&vxp=mtr

It might help if a number of us began calling SUMMIT (and other vendors) and informing them of the issues with CPP pitman arms 'falling apart'... Or have some of you done that already?

Do you fellas believe we are safer with a 'pressed in' and bolted on ball stud from some of the vendors who sell these?? OR should we insist on a GM produced pitman arm with bolted on stud?
 
#481 ·
Maybe someone here that has one of those arms could perform their own backyard destruct tests and post pics of the results.

If those original welds are THAT bad it should at least come loose. If not then.... In the end all they'd have is a destroyed arm that they weren't going to use anyway.
 
#488 ·
So I have been following along with this thread and had a question.

Is there any reason the CPP arm could not have the welded area ground flush to the arm, the ball drilled and tapped and a bolt and washer installed from the bottom, basically capturing the ball stud into the arm?
 
#500 · (Edited)
Well it looks like this CPP pitman arm malfunction has been going on for many years. I was going through a box of stuff today and I came across a brand new CPP pitman arm purchased with a 500 series P/S box in January of 2009. Not a big surprise to me but the ball is not welded top or bottom and does not appear to be peened in. Surprise surprise, It is installed CROOKED in the arm. Now I can say I have my very own pitman arm shaped paper weight! :sign0020:

I see Aaron has been keeping everyone here up to date, NOT. :pcguru:
 

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#501 ·
Not sure if it's exact but it looks similar to mine and definitely are totally different looking than the ones that have failed.

I thought we determined that this type probably were OK. No?

Mine purchased 10/31/09:



Yours:

 
#508 ·
This latest deal shows that there have been problems since day 1 with this part. Don't fool yourself into thinking there's some time period where they were OK.

As far as buying originals with no wear, there's plenty out there. Negotiate with the Ebay seller. Or keep looking. I've been able to buy complete center link assemblies with pitman arms and idler arms at swap meets for less than the $35 he's asking.
 
#515 · (Edited)
Just bought some steering parts to install a cpp 500 steering unit. I was told to stay away from the cpp pitman arm as some have had some problems. I ended up buying it anyways as it looks like they have upgraded the way they install the ball.
I would trust a 60 year old GM piece any day before I ever consider using the paperweight CPP is selling as a pitman arm. :anim_25:

Look at the pictures and I think in one case someone posted a short video clip. The material the arm is made of has become all distorted with the ball walking side to side is a clear indication it is TOO SOFT to be used for this part.
 
#522 ·
Agreed on the welding assessment. However it shouldn't be up to the end user to certify a component suppliers stock.

Surely the organisation that is rectifying these arms would be proud of their work and certify that the repairs meet all required standards and codes?

And one would expect, that as a part of CPP's quality management system, that CPP would already have verification certificates for each repaired component, and it would simply be a matter of providing these certificates (not an email, not a phone call, not a text message, a certificate) to the end users, once requested.
 
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