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283 swap motor mounts

6K views 40 replies 15 participants last post by  USA1 
#1 ·
I'm going to be swapping a 1957 Corvette 283 into my 57 210 4dr and I'm planing on sticking with the original stock front mounted motor mounts for ease of installation. So I was wondering with the front style motor mounts is it possible to get set the 283 in without the trans or would I have to put some blocks under it to hold it in place?
 
#2 ·
Without the Auto Transmission or Bell Housing and the rear mounts there nothing to hold the back of the engine up. You have to block it up or Chain it up from the rear.
 
#9 ·
You came to the right place. No, the 235 front motor mount brackets will not swap onto the 283 so you will need to source v8 brackets. The motor mount studs, washers, cups and rubber biskets can be reused. You will also need to source a v8 bell housing. They are also different from the 235. You will need v8 rear motor mounts. You guessed it, different from the 235 rear motor mounts.

Other things, the radiator in a 6 car is mounted in front of the radiator saddle. You will have to use a fan extension to move the mechanical fan forward. The v8 cars had it mounted behind the saddle. The saddles are different. So are the radiators. One type for a 6 the other for the v8 cars.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I did this swap just a couple of years ago. The front brackets are definitely different from six to V8 but the rear mounts were the same at least on the stick shift bell housings. Of course as mentioned, the V8 bell is different also.

One other point to consider. Take a look at the oil pan shape. Check with Pops if there might be a steering linkage interference. He experienced a problem way back but it was a later 50s year engine. These little things can surprise you.
 
#16 ·
Looks like the right one to me :):tu

The one on the left in the image below is it:

 
#17 ·
In 1962 I had a 57 with a 59 Corvette 283 with 5/6 quart oil pan and canister oil filter and it required 6 quarts of oil to fil. I say 5/6 quart pan because the pan held 5 quarts and the filter another for a total of 6 quarts.

It was installed by the previous owner and I was too young and inexperienced to know what he had to do to get it to fit. I just knew it had a solid lifter cam and ran like a scalded ape.
 
#19 ·
I've never noticed that...I will have to check mine.
 
#22 ·
I've never heard of that, don't remember any stamping on any of them, but if you try to use the 6 cylinder brackets you'll find they won't work. The studs and rubber biscuits/washers are the same. They just need to be moved from the forward holes to the rear ones on the crossmember.

An oil pan for a C1 Corvette will work in a trifive chassis. The pictured pan looks like it will work. No telling if that's really a Corvette engine/pan anyway. Many are claimed to be so and are not.

Likewise the rear mounts will work with either 6 or V8 as long as you have the correct bellhousing, as already said.

A V8 radiator is not enough. You'll either need a V8 radiator support or same adapter plates to mount the V8 radiator on the 6 cylinder radiator support. Another choice is to leave the radiator in front of the support and get a fan shroud for that combination.
 
#23 ·
Any good fan shroud in particular? And where can I get a fan extension? Oh and is it possible to use the fan of the 6?

Last I checked there was a short and long water pump for the 283's, would a long pump work instead of an extension or would it be better to go with the short pump and the extension?
 
#25 ·
You will have to use an extension, if you use a short water pump and the radiator is in the six cylinder position.
 
#27 ·
The shrouds are made for radiators in the V8 or six cylinder position...I had to use a fan extension on mine with the radiator in the six position and a Danchuk shroud...This was necessary to put the fan 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the shroud.



 
#30 ·
#34 ·
I did this same swap on my 55 back in the late 70's when I was still in high school and the only options to find parts was the junkyards and what you could still buy from the local parts stores and Chevy dealers. The repro parts industry was just getting started for tri-fives back then. I couldn't find the V-8 front brackets, but was able to re-drill the holes in the 6 cylinder brackets and make them work. The bell housing I was able to find a used V-8 one which worked fine with the 6 cylinder rear mounts. You will also need a new fly wheel if you don't have a V-8 one. It is the larger dia. you will need (168 tooth I think) The first one I got from the salvage yard was to small and wouldn't engage the starter. Speaking of the starter you will need one that has the 3 bolt flange to mount to the bell housing (not the block). I built one from 2 different starters and a new solenoid. I had a good block mounted starter and a bad bell housing mount starter so I just combined the 2. It's still in my car today and works fine. For your trans swap I did the same thing also. The Muncie I have I bought from a guy who had it in his late model circle track stock car for $100. I have never had it rebuilt and it has been in my car working fine for close to 40 years now. ( probably just lucky on that) It is a pre 1970 Muncie so the only thing I needed to swap that in was the drive shaft yoke which was another salvage yard part. It came with the original shifter which I later replaced with a hurst shifter. That was another low cost one as a friend was buying a new shifter and I got a deal on it (almost for free, I had to make him take $10. for it) That is also still in my car to this day, just with new bushings and proper adjustment it still works fine.
Not to say it's not better to spend the money to have things rebuilt or buy new parts but you can do things on a budget if you have to. I don't race my car or beat on it either and my engine is a 283 also, from a 62 Chevy (I paid $35. for the whole car that came out of) that was rebuilt to maybe make 250 hp so that is not putting a lot of stress on the rest of the drivetrain either.
Just remembered I did have to put a different oil pan on mine also to clear the steering linkage. I don't remember what the 62 Chevy pan looked like but it definitely did not clear the linkage.
 
#35 ·
I am not a Chevy II expert but I thought 63 was first year of v8 in them but that is not my point. Yes you needed a pan Chevy II pans are unique to them in that they are front sump . Only useful if you are swapping a 283 to a Mustang. There is a good chance you may not need a pan.
 
#37 · (Edited)
You can use an 11 inch 168 tooth flywheel from any non 400/454 truck into the 80s. I have 3 or 4 laying around , but if I needed one I would buy it local because shipping one is expensive. This list includes all V8s except the aforementioned and inline 6 cylinders after 1962. I believe around 1986 thy change to one piece rear main.
 
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