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Old 09-18-2019, 12:11 AM   #11
towner
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Default mini tub progress

have both rear wheel wells cut and cleco'd into position. I like seeing 13.5" between sway bar and wheel lip.
need to build battery box and storage bin. dug rear seat out of trailer and think I will remove material from center of seat.
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:42 AM   #12
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Default rear seat fitting

today I spent more time disassembling rear seat than I wish to discuss. I would really appreciate some insight into the seat sectioning dilemma. looked easy until I cut open the diaphragm . the search function here is not very precise and I can not find anything dealing with wagon seat. I would weld to rust for a week to get out of sectioning my seat. help please
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:33 AM   #13
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Have you stripped down the seat bottom and back as yet? When you do that, you should get a good idea what is necessary...

The original rear seat for your wagon uses a 'wooden' (plywood) piece in the bottom and the back for a substrate to attach various metal pieces. You'd have to also move the brackets/etc that the seat back/bottom attach to, and provide for the folding mechanism (to fold flat to increase cargo space), IF you want to retain that 'folding function'... Depends upon how much you moved the wheel wells to determine how much you need to section. You could "move" all the supporting structure to provide the seat support and folding function, and then narrow your seat parts appropriately. Taking a few inches out of the middle of the wood support for each should not be a problem, but you will need to make the new wood parts more narrow and retain all the 'machined' sections for mounting the metal bracketry. I only recall a couple of angle iron pieces that traverse the wood from side to side for structural strength; those would be easy for you to shorten and there's the spring itself, which also should not pose a problem for you.

OR you could do a totally custom *fixed* rear seat with wood structure, brackets as required and have your upholsterer do the padding, covering, etc.

PS. Look for the thread by user 'Davlin' on here who took two front seats and 'made' two bucket seats for a '56 Nomad he's helping a friend with ...
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
Have you stripped down the seat bottom and back as yet? When you do that, you should get a good idea what is necessary...

The original rear seat for your wagon uses a 'wooden' (plywood) piece in the bottom and the back for a substrate to attach various metal pieces. You'd have to also move the brackets/etc that the seat back/bottom attach to, and provide for the folding mechanism (to fold flat to increase cargo space), IF you want to retain that 'folding function'... Depends upon how much you moved the wheel wells to determine how much you need to section. You could "move" all the supporting structure to provide the seat support and folding function, and then narrow your seat parts appropriately. Taking a few inches out of the middle of the wood support for each should not be a problem, but you will need to make the new wood parts more narrow and retain all the 'machined' sections for mounting the metal bracketry. I only recall a couple of angle iron pieces that traverse the wood from side to side for structural strength; those would be easy for you to shorten and there's the spring itself, which also should not pose a problem for you.

OR you could do a totally custom *fixed* rear seat with wood structure, brackets as required and have your upholsterer do the padding, covering, etc.

PS. Look for the thread by user 'Davlin' on here who took two front seats and 'made' two bucket seats for a '56 Nomad he's helping a friend with ...
Yes I have stripped completely, going to make template and cut one eng of plywood and section the center of spring area. I am very glad I am not doing upholstery for a living. thanks for help, will post pics on reassemble. Time to go back to work and paint more pieces
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Old 10-07-2019, 03:13 PM   #15
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Bright Yellow and Shelby bargain, I'll take it. Yes I'll rattle can these also. Been on parts hold waiting on fuel tank. want tank before I finish cargo floor.
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:18 PM   #16
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Did you use the engine hoist trick to get the body off and on?
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Old 10-07-2019, 08:54 PM   #17
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Did you use the engine hoist trick to get the body off and on?
Just a couple of floor jacks, jack stands and large dowels to roll frame in and out. I was really easy. did it by myself
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