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Electrical Questions and Answers This is the place to ask all your question about electrical problems and instalation issues.

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Old 07-16-2017, 11:01 PM   #21
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Did you disconnect the lead going to the distributor and connect a test lead there? You need to ground and unground that negative lead and watch for spark from the main coil wire...Don't measure with a meter.

IF you followed the procedures that I gave you correctly, then yes I'd say that the coil is bad.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 557B210 View Post
Did you disconnect the lead going to the distributor and connect a test lead there? You need to ground and unground that negative lead and watch for spark from the main coil wire...Don't measure with a meter.

IF you followed the procedures that I gave you correctly, then yes I'd say that the coil is bad.
What David is explaining is to use a jumper on the - terminal of the coil, to act like the points. When you touch the - terminal of the coil to ground, the coil charges, with 12 volts on the + terminal. When the jumper is removed from ground, the coil discharges through the center post of the coil and should produce a spark when the screwdriver is held close to ground.
If you don't get a spark, try the old coil the same way.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:47 AM   #23
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THANKS for the back-up Don
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:16 PM   #24
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remove pertronix Junk and put a good quality msd in its place then enjoy driving your car instead of working on it . I have removed more bad pertronix junk than I have any other ignition including the Mallory unilite.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:58 PM   #25
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I got a chuckle ou tof that post above, "including Mallory Unilites". I learned a long time ago, from my go to person for ignition stuff, that Unilite is one of the best point replacement units, that NOBODY resists correctly, so, they fail.

What I was told was to use the stock GM resistor or resistor wire as stock, to the coil, then, use the .60 ohm resistor that comes with the Unilite, EXACTLY as Mallory said to do, between coil positive and Unilite red power input wire.

He says it runs the coil at one current level, and the Unilite at a lower one. He also got me to start using a 9 volt lantern dry battery to power up Unilite distributors when I run one to recurve them on my Sun distributor machine. So, I tried a few at his resistor level, what others use, only one resistor, and full volts. NO DIFFERENCE IN OUTPUT AT ALL, but, double resisted, they live long and don't have problems.

I have done that to a couple of my Unilites, and more than a few customer systems, and the failures stopped, the cars did not run one iota different than before.

He also proved to me that PerTronix Ignitors should be resisted with at least the stock GM resistance level, or, they fail.

Just like my ignition man said it would.

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Old 07-17-2017, 02:16 PM   #26
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I tested the coil again today as Pops described, and it worked! I got a spark off of the output wire! I mustve been doing something wrong yesterday! This doesnt fix my problem, but it appears the coil could be working okay! I called pertronix about it and they said my lack of an LED flash on the module points to the module being bad or badly grounded.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:06 PM   #27
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Well, the good news is, at least we have it narrowed down to the distributor now.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:31 PM   #28
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indeed! I'm pretty happy with this development! so I took a couple pictures of the module in case you guys can see anything that is messed up with it. the blue dust everywhere is from when I had my engine rebuilt, the guy didn't secure the cap properly and the rotor shaved off some of the cap pretty badly. I'm gonna get a new one soonishly!

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Old 07-17-2017, 04:37 PM   #29
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:42 PM   #30
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I thought when you change out the points system to electronic you had to put a jump on the ignition switch between ign1 & ign2.
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