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My latest $10 angle grinder is dying and I'd like to buy something with a bit more longevity. As usual I'm not sure where else to seek info, so you guys are stuck with my foolish questions.
I want to stay corded, and the usual 4.5", 5/8-11.
I see some grinders have low (6) amp ratings up towards 11 amps ratings, but oddly the RPM ratings don't always rise with the increase in amps.
Considering my current HF cheapy is 4.3 amp and did just ok, 6 amp is looking much better -- but is it good enough or do I need to start higher?
Other than safety concerns about not using lower RPM discs or brushes on a higher RPM grinder, what should I be looking for with amp/RPM ratings?
I'm also learning to avoid the HF "brown cloud" cutting discs in favor of much better ones.
Also, I noticed at least one grinder was variable speed.
Wouldn't that cause problems by running a cutting disc at too low speed?
When using a gas concrete saw for fire department training we were always taught to have the saw at full RPM before engaging the blade into the work.
Is it common to replace brushes in the better grinders?
Are the needed parts readily available and is it worth the cost of new parts --- or better to just buy multiple "disposable" cheapy grinders?
If a unit has a paddle switch, can they be locked on?
If not, I think I'd rather stick with a lockable switch for my convenience.
I'm open to any and all suggestions and experiences.
Anyone have an opinion on HF's newer lines of these tools with brand names that apparently aren't covered by their 20% coupons?
tractor supply sells a porter cable for about 30 bucks.i always used makita and then it died.wanted to save a few bucks so decided to try one of these very happy with them.best grinder for the money.
One option is trigger, which makes it a bit longer than my current trashed one and may make it more difficult to get into certain places as my project evolves, but your advise is well taken.
I've never felt comfortable with a grinder using a paddle or trigger because it dictates where I need to have my hand to make the unit run and possibly limiting where and how I can cut or grind. I have relied on the switch lock (which is also available on at least this Bauer trigger unit) but these lessons are convincing me to change my ways and opinion.
One thing that I forgot to mention in my story is that after the disc exploded, and since the switch was locked on the dang thing went hop-skipping around inside the car at 10,00 RPM tearing up everything it touched. It took me a couple seconds to recover from the shock and unplug the damn thing. One more reason I don't ever want a switch on a hand grinder again.
Have no idea why the guys recommend you bosch. I have one, and that's not bad but there some annoying things, and I'm pretty sure you could find something better on the market. There is NO on tool storage for the wrench to change out the blades (not even a leather strap to hold it to the power cord) which in all fairness I should have looked st before I bought it. Still, can't stand when manufacturers do that, it can't be that hard to mold some plastic to hold the thing. the power button it very oddly designed, it takes some fidgeting to get into the 'on' position. Once it is there though it is easy to turn off, almost too easy. If your wearing gloves it's easy to touch the button and the machine turns off. And there are only two positions to hold the handle, one on each side. Even my Ryobi has on tool storage, 3 handle positions and a good, basic on/off switch. Would have expected more from bosch... I bought a bosch drill two weeks ago, though. There was DeWalt on the top of the list (https://wisepick.org/best-cordless-drill/), but it's twice more expensive than makita or bosch. I bought a drill and 40-piece drill set, and that still was cheaper than DeWalt
Last edited by OldSergeant; 01-27-2020 at 10:19 AM..
My recommendation is kind of slanted, as I have used very few grinders over the years. I have a Makita 4" that I have owned for over 25 years and 3 Dewalt 4.5" grinders that are 10-20 years old. The Makita has a switch on it and about the only thing I ever use it for anymore, is to run a diamond wheel to trim tile, I just do not like using a grinder without a deadman switch.
The 3 Dewalt grinders have been bone reliable and I work them almost every day, The oldest has the button in the middle of the spindle that locks the spindle, and this was a bad design. To easy to press the button while it was still turning and damage the spindle lock. The other 2 have the newer style spindle lock, and are way better. I do enough work with them that it was cost effective to buy multiple grinders to avoid constantly changing wheels. One machine has a constantly installed cut-off wheel, another has a flap wheel for weld smoothing, and the 3rd usually has a wire cup wheel attached.
In my opinion, it pretty tough to beat the Dewalt grinders. If you use it a lot, you may want to step up from the 11 amp to the 13 amp grinder. I have one of each, and to tell the truth, I really can't see any better performance from the 13 amp grinder, and even the 11 amp tool is way more powerful than the 6 or 7 amp machines that a lot of brands sell. It ain't the cheapest grinder, but it is is a grinder that you will still be using 20years from now! My neighbor buys the Harbor freight grinders because they are cheap. I think he has been through at least 5 of them that I can remember. Last thing I want to do is stop working and drive over to HF to get a new tool.
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; 02-03-2020 at 11:28 AM..
I have a 4.5 inch DeWalt that I've had for several years. It works flawlessly. Never an issue or a problem. I do buy the more expensive disc for grinding and cutting. I would never buy them from HF. After reading some of these threads, I realize how important eye protection is when using one of these tools. It could be a very serious issue if one of these disc come apart. Sometimes, I'm in a hurry and forget my eye protection. Have to stay on top of this much better, Carmine.