Got the water pump replaced today and tried to install the new radiator in the v8 position. There wasn't much clearance with the old radiator, but now the lower support is hung on a fan blade [emoji22] . I cant get it all the way down onto the lower support. Any thoughts.
Those are 3/8-16 bolts and these are the torque values on those.
1. T-stat housing- 20 ft. lbs.
2.Water pump- 30 ft. lbs., I use a little coating of permatex #2 on the threads for these. Good luck,hope this helps. Bob:bowtieb:
I know you said that you weren't going to use a spacer but if you're not using a shroud then the most forward part of the fan needs to be anywhere 1/2 in. to maximum 1in. to the rear of the radiator. The fan can be further aft. if you want but on a hot summer day and some stop and go traffic you may see the eng. temp climb up due to slow air flow thru the radiator fins. Hope this helps,good luck. Bob :bowtieb:
So here is the update. I got everything back together with no coolant leaks. Okay, well a drop out of the petcock. But I think it just needs to be slightly tightened. Tstat seems to be functioning—I used 160 degree at Bruce's recommendation, the summit racing fan I posted pics of earlier.
I would be ready to hit the road, BUT the transmission cooler line on the passenger's side has a fairly significant little leak. I have taken the brass fitting of the nipple and tightened it, but no luck. I have the steel prebent lines from danchuck—the op installed them and left the sticker on. They were absolutely fine before I installed the new radiator. Should there be a rubber seal or anyone know of any other tricks to get this to stop leaking.
As you will be able to see from the pics, I don't have a ton of clearance between the radiator and the fan.
Thank again to everyone that helped me out on this.
Between the fitting and the radiator = Remove fitting and use some liquid Permatex Teflon pipe sealer.
Between the nipple and the nut on the line = Push the nut back as far as you can to inspect the end of the steel line. It should be a double flare. I have had the flare split, and the more you tighten the nut the worse it may get. Fix may be to replace the line. If that is not the problem, use some of the liquid Permatex Teflon on the threads of the nipple and it may seal
Finally got to take that cruise! Had to replace the old brass fitting from the line to the radiator.
Very pleased with outcome. And my 3 day project only took 3 weeks!
3 weeks is no biggie,its like a hop,skip, and a jump. Its when a project stretches into months and years that gives me major headaches. :sign0020: :anim_25:
Good afternoon, everyone, yes, I am reviving an old thread. I noticed this morning that the aluminum radiator that I installed back in 2017 is not weeping. Is this normal? Are the parts really that poorly made?
I guess I am looking for another alternative. Want something stock appearing that will last a little bit longer this time!
Good afternoon, everyone, yes, I am reviving an old thread. I noticed this morning that the aluminum radiator that I installed back in 2017 is not weeping. Is this normal? Are the parts really that poorly made?
I guess I am looking for another alternative. Want something stock appearing that will last a little bit longer this time!
Only at Cold-Case Radiators® will you see not only a Lifetime Warranty, but also a 60 Day COOL Guarantee. If your Cold-Case Radiator® doesn't keep your car or truck cooler than your previous radiator, send it back for a refund.
I guess I will give autocity a call. When new stuff fails, I usually just accept it, and try to replace with either a good use orginal or nos part. That's not going to work with a radiator.
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