Just pulled the axles out of my 55 Chevy Belair should there be any wiggle movement in the bearing? Or should it be tight on the axle shaft with no up and down movement? It also has a little side to side movement is that normal? I think it's time for new bearings. Thanks, Todd
I've still got the original bearings in my '57. If you need new bearings, they will talk to you or you'll feel it. A lot of people replace these things because they think they need to but believe me the original parts are better than the replacements. Many have done what you want to do and have leaks afterward.
the long answer is you need to look at the axle the bearing should not move on the axle at all it is pressed onto the axle. if the bearing is moving on the axle the axle may need to be replaced. I suspect that your seeing inner bearing race to outer bearing race movement . not inner race to axle movement. check it out and get back to us.
The inner race should be tight on the axle.Any movement there is a real problem.When a bearing is new you can hold the outer shell,and try,and move the inner race,and there will be almost no movement.
Thanks I just pulled the right side and it's obviously a replacement bearing on the right side because the O-ring is on the inside and not the outboard side like the left side is and I can see the spring seal and there's absolutely no movement on it and that side was not leaking at all so I will replace both bearings just to be on the safe side.
When you replace the bearing, make sure the bearing retainer is not bent or warped. Bent or warped retainers allow the bearing to work in the housing taking out the rubber O ring. It the retainers are in bad shape, like mine were, you can replace them with a reproduction stamped sheet metal plate or a billet steel plates (which is what I did).
Its more about the clearance they build into the bearing (c1, c2, c3 etc). All the companies you listed are capable of getting you a quality product, although National and Timken don't mfg ball bearings. I'll throw a newer name in the mix: Koyo. Koyo is on par with SKF and some of their stuff is better than Timken (well I should say some Timken stuff isn't the quality we remember and the extra price for the name might not be worth it). Two other names I wouldn't be upset about: NTN and NSK.
I'd point out that the abrasive nature of gearboxes and axles means you create an inherently 'dirty' oil. The grit in the oil will damage the highly polishes balls and races in the ball bearings. So change the gear lube regularly, its also the best way to keep an eye on your geartrain. They do have ball bearings with plastic covers on the outsides - to keep the contaminated gear oil out of the ball bearings and extend the ball bearings life. The bearing has a measured amount of oil trapped inside to lube itself. Im not sure if they have a sealed ball bearing for this application or not.
All major brands of bearings are manufactured to strict industry standards. I wouldn't be afraid tou use any brand bearing purchased from a reputable source, for example I wouldn't buy bearings on e-bay but I would from Rock Auto.
I checked Napa $122 a bearing and it does not include the seals? Say what? seals should be in the bearing already correct? I don't know what seals they were talking about. I declined. Todd.
I have had the best luck with either nos or rnos bearings. Right now, there is a nice pair of rnos bearings on eBay, rw507er. One of the bearings is skf/nice, the other is bca. Both for like $55
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