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57 chevy street project need your opinions on upgrades

4K views 30 replies 18 participants last post by  bantamben 
#1 ·
I have a 57 chevy that I was building all stock but I bought a relatively stock 56 so decided to make the 57 more of a street machine. The car chassis was 100 percent restored but all stock. I bought an LS2 and an ASA hot cam with a 4l60e for the driveline. Help me decide on the upgrades. I'm looking for bang for the buck.
Here's what I recently purchased
Cpp ls side mounts and ls fitrite adjustable mounts.
Cpp 500 steering box kit idler arm steering linkage etc..

Items I need help with
Wiring (which brand )
Engine harness aftermarket, GMpp ls3 hotcam harness?
Disc brakes, cpp wil wood ? 10" 12" front, back, dropped spindles 8" booster , hydraboost etc.. my drums are all new rebuilt new lines hoses etc.. but which upgrades make a big difference
Cpp steering column tilt? No tilt?
Tubular a arms? eBay tubulars Seam cheap but nice with the 5 degree. Stock style with 5 degree? Mine are nice all rebuilt powdercoated etc.. but don't have the 5 degrees any advantage to tubular weight? Or turning radius
Any other items you reccomend as I build it
Thanks
 
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#3 ·
I would leave your current A-arms alone....

Looks like a really nice platform to start with...

For a great/comfortable cruiser I wouldn't be without:

1.) A/C
2.) Power Steering
3.) Since Black is easier to color match, If I were you I'd consider 3-point seat belts at this point. You'll need to weld onto the roof near the rail unless you go with seats that are out of a Silverado.... too high for my taste.
4.) Power windows..... so easy to manipulate and nothing makes a Sport Coupe look better than with all the windows rolled down on a nice day.

Have fun....
 
#5 · (Edited)
Stay away from CPP steering columns. Made in China steering tilt columns have a history of breaking, which causes a loss of steering. Buy a tilt column from either Ididit or Flaming River.

Better brakes is always a good idea, especially when going from drums to disc.

I see your engine is dressed out totally stock. If it were me, I'd ditch the generator and go to an alternator.

AAW makes very nice wiring kits. I like them better than Painless.
 
#6 ·
Stay away from CPP steering columns. Made in China steering tilt columns have a history of breaking, which causes a loss of steering. Buy a tilt column from either Ididit or Flaming River.

Better brakes is always a good idea, especially when going from drums to disc.

I see your engine is dressed out totally stock. If it were me, I'd ditch the generator and go to an alternator.
Absolutely agree! I have Ididit, but now prefer the Flaming River. Go tilt, but realize the tilt will bring the wheel closer to your body as it is longer, I had to install a Lecarra steering wheel with no "dish" to it.
Go full bore on everything and don't cheap out! Buy the best. Myself, I like the Wilwood big brake system, go disc front and rear. Just bought a Concept One serpentine pulley system and glad I did. Get the kit with the A/C compressor and add Vintage Air.
Add front and rear sway bars and a shock bar for sure.
AAW is a great wire choice. Mine is Painless, and I am happy with it.
You may also want to consider upgrading your cooling system. I have a BeCool modular unit that cools up to 1,000 HP, and I am very happy with it, but at a MINIMUM, get an aluminum 2 row with at least 1" tubes, and add a shroud.
There is so much more you can do, as I mentioned just a few, depending on your budget and what level you want to achieve.
 
#7 ·
Ok so far I got AAW I've heard that a couple other places so that is on the list.
Vintage air
I think I'm gonna buy the GMpp harness and computer
willwood front brakes
Flamin river seems like the column to get will the cpp really break?
Any advice on the cpp stock style upper arms for increased caster ?
 
#8 ·
Ok update I bought the Cpp steering column for the 57 seems like a nice out. I mainly bought it because it's a little shorter than an ididit and it was less expensive. I also purchased the stock style 5 degree increased caster upper control arms.
Next is brakes not sure if I want just front brakes or 4 wheel disc's. My drums are in perfect shape all rebuilt powder coated unused.

I'm not sure if I should get 10" disc or upgrade to 12". Thinking either CPP or wilwood
Also not sure if I want to do manual wilwood or a hydraboost
 
#10 ·
The main problem with the Chinese made steering columns are the tilt steering columns. They make the connection from the tilt to the steering shaft out of plastic, and it can and will break. I actually had one break on me after less then 200 miles of use. It wasn't from CPP, but it was made in China, and damn near everything CPP makes is made in China. Before you decide to keep the CPP column (if it is a tilt column), you need to read this:
https://www.trifive.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-104526.html
 
#12 · (Edited)
The Chinese are ok at crankshaft blanks now (started out terrible) but I agree no Chinese steering columns. If I was starting out again: 1) still happy with Quick Performance 9inch rear axle 2) hydroboost instead of 8" vacuum system, 3) bigger than my 1" front sway bar (something 1 3/8 like WS6 Firebird bar I put on my El Camino), 4) 3" exhaust pipes/mufflers/Badlanz cutouts, I foolishly when with 2.5", 5)I like my 17" dia. wheels and the sidewall height, 6) I would initially plumb fuel system with in-tank pump and return system . Just my personal regrets, maybe can help someone else avoid disappointment or maybe those preference things would be better for someone else. Just my opinion and a future project, don't need tubular A-arms, need taller upper ball joint to correct/improve suspension geometry, CPP 500 p.s. box works well for me.
 
#19 ·
Doesn't china make all the best stuff now? Last time I checked all our factories are gone and we are stuck with millenials that stay at home till age 30 don't wanna work and spend all there money on tattoos. I think China stuff used to be worse but now it may be better. See golf clubs. Etc..
 
#23 ·
I did 2- 57 cars for customers and the ididit sleeve would not slide over the center part of the instrument cover
 
#24 · (Edited)
If I had to do it over again with stock suspension and wanted a front end drop with discs, this is what I'd buy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-56-195...951704?hash=item2cb8616558:g:p3gAAOSwnHZYcBDQ

2" drop spindles, 13" C4 HD rotors (1" thick I believe...not as thick as C5 stuff, but Wilwood rotors are only .81 thick unless you go with the high priced stuff) with C5 calipers. Personally, I wouldn't run anything less than a ~12" rotor on a tri-five up front...cars are just too heavy for the smaller stuff.

Don't even bother with the 10.5" stuff...it's garbage. I have the 10.5" rotors and metric calipers (D154s) on my '91 Syclone (came stock on that truck)...they can't even hold the truck at the line while I'm foot braking it (in other words, the motor generates more torque than the brakes do). The rotors and calipers are just too small for a performance application. Those are going away soon...switching to C5/6 brakes ;)

Anyway, these would require a 17" wheel of course. Better than Wilwood or anything that CPP currently offers and when you need new pads or discs, it's stock GM stuff.

I'm sure there are some offshore parts in that kit, but in my experience, MGChevy offers good stuff.

Nothing wrong with the stock drums in the rear unless you're pushing it (Autocross or road racing, maybe north of 450HP) or just want the bling.

When you change your brakes, you have to run the right master cylinder, booster, and pedal ratio. Lots of threads on here about it, but be aware that the stock config will not likely be optimal. A hydroboost is a good option if you're gonna run that ASA cam which won't produce much vacuum for a vacuum brake booster.

As far as the steering goes, be careful with the CPP 500 box pitman arm...some have broken (which could be a catastrophic and life ending failure). Check out the thread in the steering forum. Scary stuff. I'd pop for a 600 box from a different vendor myself (or, get a stock GM pitman arm for use with the 500 box). I'm actually of the mind now (having had a 500 box myself) that a rack and pinion is a better option. More expensive and complicated, but gives more a of a late model feel to the steering wheel too (if you like that sort of thing). I do believe that a set of aftermarket upper control arms are useful with a modern box with the extra caster as opposed to what others have said. It helps with stability on the road and steering wheel return to center. Aftermarket lowers are probably not worth the effort (but see below). The tall ball joints seem to be worth it according to others in terms of steering and handling.

The biggest bang for the buck in the handling dept will be a big front sway bar...over 1" (close to 1 1/4"). The rear helps too, but the front is the big one. I wouldn't drive one of these cars without a front sway bar, period. The difference they make is astonishing. Stock lower control arms were not equipped with a tab for sways...might be a reason to go with tubulars. Kits for stock arms have tabs that come with them that you can weld or bolt on I believe.

BTW, speaking of offshore stuff, good luck finding ANY vendor or mfg for just about anything that doesn't use something manufactured offshore. I wouldn't cheap out on steering, suspension, or brake components...too dangerous IMO (this includes the cheap ebay tubular control arms). Just the times we live in.

Last thing I'll say...if you put on a cheap set of BFG T/A radials and expect it to handle/brake well...you wasted your time on all the upgrades. Good suspension requires good tires to make a car handle and brake well. I'm sure that'll rustle some jimmies ;)
 
#25 · (Edited)
Wiring (which brand )
Engine harness aftermarket, GMpp ls3 hotcam harness?
Disc brakes, cpp wil wood ? 10" 12" front, back, dropped spindles 8" booster , hydraboost etc.. my drums are all new rebuilt new lines hoses etc.. but which upgrades make a big difference
Cpp steering column tilt? No tilt?
Tubular a arms? eBay tubulars Seam cheap but nice with the 5 degree. Stock style with 5 degree? Mine are nice all rebuilt powdercoated etc.. but don't have the 5 degrees any advantage to tubular weight? Or turning radius
Any other items you reccomend as I build it
Thanks

This is just my opinion (since you asked :))

wiring - don't know, that's above my pay grade

brakes - size matters as they say, mine has C5 corvette front (a bit thicker than the C4) and 12.5" rear discs. It STOPS. The kit that hutchenc linked appears to be good value. I had not seen that kit before, with that available I can't understand anyone going for anything smaller. My car has an 8" booster, it works great. Hydroboost is like the wiring, above my pay grade :).

I don't see any advantage to tubular control arms. Certainly added caster is needed, you still need to shim with fixed 5 degree arms (stock style or tubular). I used stock lower, and these SPC upper, infinitely adjustable (no shims), quality pieces.
Auto part Bicycle part Suspension part


I would install taller upper ball joints to address the camber issues that these cars have. There is a bit of a debate on whether 0.5" or .09" taller is best. I've done some plotting of camber curves and from what I can figure 0.9" work best on stock height cars, 0.5" are best on lowered cars. I have 0.5", with the arms above, the difference is stunning.

Tilt column; my car has the shortened non tilt CPP column. It works for me.

Front away bar; like the brakes, size matters, my car has a 1" bar, great improvement, doing it again, maybe I would go thicker. A rear one going on shortly.

You didn't ask about wheel and tire choice, which is probably wise as you may get bombarded by the "real men don't drive cars with them them newfangled big wheels" brigade :). I have 20" x 8.5" rear, 18" x 8" front. You will hear claims that you have to run 'rubber band' tires with these wheels. You could run those I suppose, but mine are both 40 series tires (275 rear, 225 front), the ride is terrific, smooth and comfortable (I hate rough rides).

Oh yes if going with larger wheels and tires, you can mover your rear end back 0.75" very easily to gain clearance (rear of rocker).

Springs; front are stock, rear are 5 leaf set to stock height, and 2" lowering blocks (yes everyone, I know, real men don't use lowering blocks........)

Good luck, and enjoy.

Edit; hutchenc edited his post while I was typing and added some excellent advice. What he said x 2.
 
#29 ·
Hi all, thought I would weigh in on this one. If you have one of our "Retro-Fit" '57 Chevy columns and it won't fit over the instrument cluster, something is wrong. We cut the lower cone off short and to a diameter that will accommodate that cluster as well as the lower trim piece. It should slide on 1/4" - 3/8".
We'd be more than happy to take a look if you want to send pictures of the install. If there is some way to help we'd like the chance to do so.
 
#31 ·
Yes It is sad,

I wanted to thank all you for your help, it's been helpful learning from your past choices and knowledge you've got on the different topics. I'm gonna look into those brakes as well they look sweet.
Keep it coming I'll add updates and pics as I add some of the items I bought.
 
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