I'm sure this will open a can of worms and opinions but still going there. This is the first new crate engine I have owned. I broke in with standard 10/30 as recommended. It's time for the 1st oil change. Any recommendations on oil for a car that's only driven on weekends? Should I switch to synthetic? My newer cars have very specific synthetic they recommend like my Honda uses 0/20 synthetic so it's been a while since I've had to choose an oil. I don't care if it costs a little more, it's not like I am going to be changing it often but I also don't want to waste money.
No need to run synthetic oil, its just a waste of money IMO, just continue with the 10W-30. If you drive it less it will be just that longer between oil changes.
That's sort of what I was thinking. I was reading that it's good to have at least 1200ppm of ZDDP with a flat tapper cam engine. Im on Amazon right now and there is a Valvoline VR1 racing oil with extra zinc/phosphorus however it is not listing the Ppm spec. Price is reasonable, would it be good to go with the extra zinc?
I've been reading a little more on VR1 and it sounds like the stuff sold in the parts stores is still rated for cars with CATS so it won't have as much zinc as it should. To get more use standard oil and an additive or true racing oil. Lucas Oil has an oil that says its specifically for older cars without cats and has over 1000ppm zinc. Lots of conflicting reports out there, I did find this list on a corvette forum of oils that are suitable without having to add extra additive each time. The Lucas is on the list. Anyone use it on their flat tappet engine?
I switched to syn oil after 45 years.Im not sorry.Syn. oil is made from...oil.Its simply refined farther,and differently.In my work truck I get 1 mile per gal more.In my Harley it runs cooler.I read a report were its 47 percent better than oil,but who knows if its true.I buy a 5 qt jug at Walmart for 28 bucks.Mobil 1 runs rebates so if your cheap like me its a deal.
While the extra zinc might be "nice" for a flat lifter engine, once you're past the break in (first 20 minutes) the risk drops a bunch.
The price of synthetic oil vs. "good" dino oil has narrowed a lot in the last few years. I used to be too cheap to use synthetic - I have now turned the corner.
In fact, the "performance" oil with the extra ZDDP may be more expensive than Mobil 1 or other popular synthetics. The tables have turned.
Hmmm, I have always used a special break in oil, and continue to use it even after the first oil change at 200 miles, for at least 1,000 miles, then I switch to synthetic.
I use Royal Purple break in oil, and then Royal Purple HPS synthetic, which has the zinc in it already. No one can convince me different! http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hps-motor-oil/
Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg-9VildB38
After breaking in a 350 with flat top pistons and a RV Flat Tappet Cam I use Valvoline VR-1. FWIW is says 'high zinc' on the bottle. 'High Zinc' means different things to different people. I called Valvoline and they said this oil all that's needed. So far so good.
I believe the 350/330hp is a roller cam engine?? if so no extra zddp is needed, even if it is a flat tappet cam I would still run mobile 1 synthetic. the fact is synthetic is harder to break down from temperature or fuel contamination and with synthetic you could probably go all year on 1 oil change. also since it has a better co-efficient of friction there is hp and gas mileage in it.
Thanks for the feedback. Just to clear some things up.
My 330HP crate engine is definitely a flat tappet cam engine. I have the manual which recommends 10W/30 as well and all it says beyond that is don't synthetic for break in. I used break in oil for break in and I am going to use the recommended 10W30 now that it is broke in.
My only real question is do I go with a regular API rated oil that was designed for newer cars with catalytic converters which from my research limits the zinc content OR do I go with a specialty oil with more zinc. I think I have some good info to make the decision.
I've used Valvoline Oil for over 50 years. I now add a bottle of STP with each oil change just because of the ZDDP scare. Did 4 oil changes last Saturday, which i do when the seasons change. May be more frequent than needed, but it gives me peace of mind.
I change the oil in my wife's Tahoe every 3000 miles, which is about every 2 months. Just use 5W30 Valvoline. 236,000 miles and no problems.
You want a decently priced oil with good zinc content? Shell Rotella T6. Yes, the diesel engine oil. It works just fine in gasoline engines, and still has around 1200ppm of Zinc. Yes, it's synthetic, and yes, there is a wealth of data out there proving synthetic is superior to dino oil (not that there is anything wrong with dino oil).
In my 67 SS350 with a 30-30 Duntov I just put 4 quarts of Renegade 20-50 and 4 quarts of Valvoline 20-50. Renegade is the only racing oilI am aware of to put parts per million on each bottle @ 3000. Brad Penn and Tokyo Joe don't do it.
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