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Electrical Questions and Answers This is the place to ask all your question about electrical problems and instalation issues.

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Old 11-01-2019, 04:51 PM   #51
56ls408
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I been following your thread donít know if I missed you saying what your charging system is alternator or original type generator if alternator external or internal regulator but if you are actually seeing more than 14.5-15 volts at any time you have to fix the the charging system before doing anything with your temp gauge with a fully charged battery engine & key off the battery should have 12.5 - 13 volts engine running should increase within a very short time by at least .5 volts at idle increasing rpm should bring voltage to near 14.2 if itís going to 16-17 volts the regulator either internal or external has a problem. If the system is a generator then it may not rise the voltage to 14 maybe 13.5 above idle but again not 17 check your voltage at the battery connection of the alternator & a good ground with a good DVOM if itís showing high voltage & itís a external regulator Change it out & retest if internal regulator alternator then either replace the alternator or send it out to be repaired then see what the temperature gauge does there are one wire alternators that are simple to change to I personally like to connect as a three wire so the charge light works and the voltage sense wire reads load on the system there is a lot of good information on line on changing to a One wire or three wire system A great source on early charging systems is a company called MAD http://mad electrical.com/electrical tech/chevymain2.shtml hope this helps
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Old 11-07-2019, 01:43 PM   #52
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I been following your thread donít know if I missed you saying what your charging system is alternator or original type generator if alternator external or internal regulator but if you are actually seeing more than 14.5-15 volts at any time you have to fix the the charging system before doing anything with your temp gauge with a fully charged battery engine & key off the battery should have 12.5 - 13 volts engine running should increase within a very short time by at least .5 volts at idle increasing rpm should bring voltage to near 14.2 if itís going to 16-17 volts the regulator either internal or external has a problem. If the system is a generator then it may not rise the voltage to 14 maybe 13.5 above idle but again not 17 check your voltage at the battery connection of the alternator & a good ground with a good DVOM if itís showing high voltage & itís a external regulator Change it out & retest if internal regulator alternator then either replace the alternator or send it out to be repaired then see what the temperature gauge does there are one wire alternators that are simple to change to I personally like to connect as a three wire so the charge light works and the voltage sense wire reads load on the system there is a lot of good information on line on changing to a One wire or three wire system A great source on early charging systems is a company called MAD http://mad electrical.com/electrical tech/chevymain2.shtml hope this helps
561s408: Thanks for your detai!ed information. I have all stock components in this car. Just finished testing and my numbers do not match your or levels. I hope to provide my test procedures and results here after I organize them in a form that is clear. Thanks again.
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Old 11-07-2019, 02:45 PM   #53
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Hi: I finally completed the testing that has been recommended by both Kerry and tony. In affect, I ran test isolating the ignition switch by applying what was 12.12 v from the red connector on the regulator to the input side of the gage, After removing the tan wire.
1. Ignition switch set to on; engine was off: fuel gage & gen light on; temp gage far left.
2. Ran engine at IDLE for five minutes; battery voltage 12.23; engine temp went from 55 to 70 degrees.
3. Increase RPM slowly and voltage went from 12.35 to 15.80 & back to 12.38 at idle
4. repeated (3) from idle at 12.38 v to 15v and a spike to 17v***.At this point in the test, every time I increased RPM and voltage, the gage pointer rapidly moved as in the past and quickly fell back to about mid point at idle.
5. Engine temp during steps 3 and 4 was near constant at 170 degrees. That tells me that the gage
reads the correct temp at idle.
The above test was done on Tuesday. And I realized that I forgot to get sensor resistance during that testing.

I ran a second set of test using an external 12v source to isolate the regulator affect and battery voltage from the temp circuit.
With approx 12.35 to 13.45 v applied to the gage and engine temp about 170 degrees, the gage is steady at all RPM levels. The resistance at the sensor was 88 to 95 ohms and gage pointer was steady at midpoint.

My engine in today's test ran for about 45 minutes and the engine temperature never went above 170 degrees.

The voltage variation between 12.3v and 13.5v did not seem to make a significant change in the gage readings.
Overall in this second test, the resistance I read are consistent with the numbers shown in Kerry's post.
*** The 17v spike occurred when I quickly increased RPM and I saw it for a very short instant. That probably might not occur in normal driving.
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Old 11-07-2019, 04:27 PM   #54
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Tom,

This above ^^^^^ is getting the answers both me and Tony have been waiting for.

Basically with a working gauge there is 2 variants [Voltage IN vs Resistance OUT in simple terms]

Both Tony and my questions have been aimed at isolating which one of these 2 issues it is.

The voltage spike appears to be the problem. The Gen is overcharging.

Check the voltage regulator and file the points Or replace it. [this should be the first step]

You can also add a voltage choke to the 12v side of the gauges [but this shouldn't be needed at all.

Overcharging is not too good for the battery [they can "boil" dry] so check that also
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:00 PM   #55
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Tom,

This above ^^^^^ is getting the answers both me and Tony have been waiting for.

Basically with a working gauge there is 2 variants [Voltage IN vs Resistance OUT in simple terms]

Both Tony and my questions have been aimed at isolating which one of these 2 issues it is.

The voltage spike appears to be the problem. The Gen is overcharging.

Check the voltage regulator and file the points Or replace it. [this should be the first step]

You can also add a voltage choke to the 12v side of the gauges [but this shouldn't be needed at all.

Overcharging is not too good for the battery [they can "boil" dry] so check that also
Kerry: Thanks for your response. Before re installing the regulator I opened cleaned and checked it. I did check the contacts and filed them to clean and smooth them. If I can find an oem regulator I would prefer to replace this one.
In the process of troubleshooting I came to the conclusion that my idle was set too low. I adjusted the idle screw one half turn and my charging system seemed to like it. I think the charge picked up about .5v and the generator light was happy.
Thanks are in order to you and Tony for your patience in sticking with me on this problem and providing the info and guidance that I needed. Sincerely, Tom
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Old 11-14-2019, 07:02 PM   #56
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Tom,

Check the voltage regulator and file the points Or replace it. [this should be the first step]
I decided to remove the regulator and recheck the points. This time I pulled the points out and got a good look at them. They were in poor condition. I think that I did a much better job.
Question: Is there a need to set the gaps for the three sets?
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Old 11-15-2019, 12:56 PM   #57
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During a drive this morning I found no change, no improvement. Hoping to get a direct replacement regulator.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:04 PM   #58
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During a drive this morning I found no change, no improvement. Hoping to get a direct replacement regulator.
Good move!
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