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348 / 409 chevy tri five install

10K views 54 replies 9 participants last post by  Pops @ Tri-5.com 
#1 ·
This install has been discussed on the forum before. Can someone post pic's of oil pan modification for the install in a tri five to clear stock power steering please. I would like to modify the pan before installation of engine with 3/4 forward mounts.

I was also thinking about getting pitman arm machined to assemble ball stud from other side ( bottom ) for power steering valve and reverse the pin on idler arm so drag link would be on the bottom. That's almost 1 3/8 inch drop.

Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
I was also thinking about getting pitman arm machined to assemble ball stud from other side ( bottom ) for power steering valve and reverse the pin on idler arm so drag link would be on the bottom. That's almost 1 3/8 inch drop.

Thoughts?
I believe lowering the drag link will create bump steer. The inner tie rod has to be in a imaginary line going through the upper and lower control arm shafts.
 
#3 ·
I know some of you guys are amazed at the amount of regulation our guvmints down under place on modifications, and the requirements for a automotive engineer to check the work done.
There was a case in New Zealand a few years back where a guy modified his Subaru for a V8 and lowered the drag link to avoid modifying the sump. Well it ended up in the Coroner's court. Other expert engineers were called as witnesses and the official report was critical of the engineer who passed it, and also critical of the actual fact of lowering the draggling and resultant bump steer.
Cheers, Des
:a_a:
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
The way it's done is to modify the center link so that it's a U shape without moving the pivot points. East Coast Chevy has a dropped center link that does that. (Maybe that's what Jalapeno's part does too.)

But the real problem isn't the center link (it's not a drag link). It's the ram for the original power steering. I think you have to get rid of that. If you want power steering, a CPP500 or Borgeson box should work.
 
#7 ·
But the real problem isn't the center link (it's not a drag link). It's the ram for the original power steering. I think you have to get rid of that. If you want power steering, a CPP500 or Borgeson box should work.
Agree...I believe that you will most likely have to get rid of the original power steering and upgrade to the later system.

See post 28 here:https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191676&page=3

I missed (in your first post) that you have original power steering to me already....I'd give Steve Pratt a call....Tell him what you have and what you want to do....It looks to me like you could get a standard steering drag link, (aka center link, aka relay tie rod) and use your original PS components to lower it.
 
#13 ·
Haven't seen any comments from catdoctor, since his original post.

I'm curious as to what exactly this means :confused0006:
 
#8 ·
I'm not sure this will be of much help. It's moreso my personal experience in dropping a "W" engine into a trifive gasser. My car is a '56 210 2d wagon and the engine a '61 348 bored and stroked to 434 cubes. I initially insisted on keeping the original steering box and I wasn't going to cut off the A-frame as many gassers do. But, I was going to install a straight axle which I bought the kit from Speedway. Then the fun began. Had to move the motor 1.5 inches forward to avoid the steering box making contact with the headers which also had to be modified. Moving the engine forward began the domino affect of other issues to come, one of which was the steering. I didn't have bump steer. I had death wobble. The steering was a nightmare. Finally acquiesced to not being able to use the stock steering box, no matter how much I wanted to. Just couldn't get the geometry correct. Went to a Vega steering box and had a knowledgeable friend help with the steering. Finally got it correct; I think. No more wobble but I haven't had it over 50 mph either. Does track straight. Nothing like seeing a "W" engine in a trifive. Generates alot of conversation. I don't mind challenges, but I would never do that again. Just too much for me. Putting an engine in something that it wasn't designed for is bad enough, but then changing the steering too. Oh boy. No thanks. I really like the 'W" engines alot even though they get a bad review at times. I have a 409 in my '62 and just love it. Best wishes with whatever you do, Carmine.
 
#15 ·
Thanks Dano....Just thinking it would be nice to have some back and forth conversation from the OP.
 
#18 ·
catdoctor

Yes I'm here and I appreciate all the thoughts on the Tri Five's with 348/409 engines.

I'm all into the 55-57 Chevy and the 348/409. Challenges of an install are there for sure. Gathering all the info I can for the install so it will go smoothly. Engine close to being finished and car almost ready.

I learned from the site you need a good plan. Some of the choices I made on the engine could have been better.

1958 348 non spark cooling block and heads. opps! newer 348 blocks and heads are better for more hp.
Bored .060 over with Ross pistons, eagle rods, double roller chain, comp springs , high volume pump , Arp head bolts , balanced etc. Yea!
Cam .481 lift 212/212 @ .050 adv. dur. 262/262 decent
409 340 hp intake and big 4GC carb. ok! I wanted to stay with OEM look.
Should make about 315 hp and 360 ft of torque.

Love the Tri Fives : I think the engine will be nice in one. Goal was a driver that would spin the tires and sound good. Will not be raced. This site is awesome!!!!

Catdoctor: 43 years working in service at a Caterpillar dealer. Retired service manager. :flag6:
 
#19 ·
steff oil pan

When I look at steff oil pan sump length of 10" and pan depth of 4.5" I think the original pan could work. It's close to that. I guess I want know until I try. I'm wanting to use 3/4 forward mounts. With original valve covers I think I'll be ok at the fire wall from the pictures I've seen posted. Stock exhaust manifold I've already removed the center ridge and lowered the rear center bolt hole into casting to provide clearance at original steering gear box.

May have to go with manual dual master cylinder to clear generator mount steering pump for power steering. Ram cylinder is in front of steering link and low enough, I don't think it will be an issue. Will see.

Wish me luck!
 
#25 ·

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#27 ·
#28 ·
Cat Dr....Also, check with Earle Williams Chassis to see what all he has for installing the 348/409 in a TriFive....Give Earle a call; great guy.
 
#30 ·
I'm trying to go down memory lane. My first car at 17 was a 250 hp 348 in a 59 Impala. Power glide of course with 3:08 rear end, it had good top end. The glass packs would tone out at about 100 mph. I love the sound the 348 would make. Car got wrecked after I sold it. 47 years latter I decided to build the 348 and put in a 56 Chevy. Looked for another 59 but wife didn't like the look of the 59. She loves the 55 -56 -57 . Got to go with the flow.
 
#32 ·
59 Impala

My father brought the black with red interior 59 impala home when I was 17 in 1972 for me to see. Car had 55000 miles. I thought it was ugly. Being stupid I told him that's not what I wanted. He said ok, but it is a nice car. He said come ride with me while I take it back. Well the ride was 100 miles. He put me in the back seat and mom and him rode up front. It had duals exhaust and glass packs. Some how I fell in love with the car on the way there. I told him I would be happy to keep it. He said great, it will be $750.00. He picked up his car and paid the man for the 59. I latter paid dad back for the car. Three power glide rebuilds latter when I graduated high school I sold the car.Too much passing gear use I guess. First big mistake in life was selling the car. My Dad was right it was a nice car and I enjoyed having it. I'm ten years into this project with the 56 and the 348. It will be a nice build but not too nice to drive whenever I want too. College for two boys , coaching baseball and watching them play sports in jr high and high school limited my time and money for the build. Finally made retirement and I'm making good progress now. The tri five's are really nice as well. The 348 gives it a uniqueness . While other engines make good hp and are easier to install the w motor's are something to look at. A dual carb or tri power is a thing of beauty. I've replace the front floors and trans hump, I still have to do the outer rockers, Front end has been rebuilt with springs , bushings, disc brakes etc, stock rear end rebuilt, new axle bearings and all new self adjusting brakes. New rear springs and shackles. Body is sanded and primed. Motor is built and trans is ready. New fuel /brake lines. Still need to fix trunk floor.
Slowly getting there.
 
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