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Metal Fabrication and Repair Questions Ask all your Metal Fabrication and Repair Questions.

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Old 03-19-2017, 11:27 PM   #11
duke57
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Here are a few close up photos I took. I think I will check with maaco. If I could get it done for 1000, I'd be at just under 2k for the car. It has the original i6 and manual trans. I think y'all have confirmed what I thought that I should not try it myself. Maybe not at all and just keep looking. I know there is a roller with no drivetrain for about 3k. I may save a little for something like that or try a cheaper project first.
A solid body without a drivetrain is better than a rusted body with a drive train. IMO Motors, transmissions bolt in no welding required.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:10 AM   #12
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The guy that cut the old quarter off didn't do you any favors. There's going to be a bunch of fitting and trimming to get another quarter on that wagon. I don't see how you come out with a good job that's cheap too unless you do it yourself, and that will take a lot of time, patience, and learning.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:45 PM   #13
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Hello, I was hoping the collective wisdom of this board may be able to stop me from doing something too stupid (I'm an eternal optimist). I have been waiting a tri five 4 door for years. I've saved a little but not enough to buy a buildable one just yet. Unless I find an exceptional deal. I may or may not have found such a deal. It's a 57 210 4 door wagon. Fairly complete with rusty floors and front passenger fender is from a bel air and front passenger door from a 150 (also comes with a dented 210 door). That stuff doesn't really concern me too much. The biggest issue and the reason I'm seeking advice is that the passenger side rear quarter is gone. The cut begins around 3 inches from the top of the post includes the whole kick panel and extends back to half the fin (meaning the outside half of fin is completely gone). The seller has a complete rust free replacement from a donor vehicle that would go with the car(it's the passenger side of a 57 210 wagon from nose to fin and includes the kick panels).

I have no experience restoring cars. I aspire to do it but I have not yet. Everyone starts somewhere I guess. The seller said he could tack it together for me for an extra 200. I don't know if this is the best idea because I don't think he has a great deal of experience in welding body panels. One welder I sort of know said it's too much trouble and he is not interested in doing the work. A high dollar restoration shop told me no less than three grand. Another restoration shop said no less than 1600. I've been quoted 600 and 700 from Craigslist mobile welders. One of which stood me up twice to go look at the car. All quotes have been tentative and based on photos of the car and the donor.

I have 5 months before it has to be a complete roller because I'm moving to the southeast. Is there any way I could do the work myself? With no previous welding or auto body experience? I'm wanting a cruiser/daily driver not a show car. But I want it to be safe and I want the doors to shut and securely lock even if the gaps are less than perfect
First off, and I'm not quite clear on your terminology, you don't want a welder, you do want an experienced body shop for this job. Given the scope of the task as I see it from your pictures, probably $3000 is reasonable for a competent job.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:53 PM   #14
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Well I've decided to pass on this one. I really appreciate the advice. It's probably a good deal for someone with experience to do it themselves but that's not me.
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:28 AM   #15
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Well I've decided to pass on this one. I really appreciate the advice. It's probably a good deal for someone with experience to do it themselves but that's not me.
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