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Ignitor II install

3K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Pops @ Tri-5.com 
#1 ·
So, I'm installing the 91181LS Ignitor II and have a question about the routing of the red and black wires. Instructions say to use the existing hole on the bottom. Currently that hole is used by the black wire that runs to the coil, and I haven't removed it yet and the grommet is really tight as well. The kit supplied grommet seems like it might be too big for the existing hole when I finally remove the existing grommet and wire. And it looks like fishing the two Pertronix wires through that hole might not be too easy. I'm ok with all this, just looking to verify that so far I'm on track.

Btw, I'm also trying to ID this distributor. It's aluminum and has 1118097 stamped on the side (although I'm not positive about the 8), along with 3B75. Guessing it's from 1975?

Thanks,
Rich
 

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#2 ·
So, I went ahead and got the old wire and grommet removed, then fished the two new leads through and installed the new grommet. The old grommet fought me for some time. It's a pretty hard rubber grommet which is part of the reason it was a struggle, along with the reach required to mess with it under the distributor. Anyway, I was successful. Now to finish wiring and try it out.
 

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#3 ·
Just an observation and info, when we in our shop use a grommet like that one, we add small tie wraps to the wire bundles on both sides of the grommet, to stop the wires from freely traveling through the grommet.

I also use a low amperage electric hair blow drier to heat those style grommets up, makes them soft, and easy to get into place, without melting them.

Willard Thompson
 
#5 ·
I had thought about whether or not to ziptie those wires or not, so I’m glad you brought it up. I used a real light coat of Syl Glide on one side of the new grommet and I think it helped. Toughest part is the reach needed to get at it.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Good tricks of the trade Willard :):tu
 
#6 ·
So, the Ignitor II and Flamethrower II are installed along with new 7mm spiral plug wires. I was hoping to not have to ask about the wiring, but I may as well, just to make sure I'm correct in what I think I need to do. I've read many threads about this wiring and I think I may have it. I currently have the ballast resistor, with two greens at the bottom and a tan and gray at the top. The gray is my electric wiper, the tan is to the ignition switch. One of the two greens went to the old coil + and the remaining green still goes to the R terminal on the starter. I've spent alot of time and effort into recreating a stock appearing engine and engine bay, therefore I'm going to keep the ballast resistor mounted even though I know it's not needed any longer. At least I know it's not needed for the new coil and Ignitor II. Less sure about being needed for the starter.

My plan would be to run the Ignitor black to the new coil - and run the Ignitor red to the coil +. I'd then go from the coil + to the top of the resistor (ignition side) where it would connect with the tan ignition wire and the wiper motor gray wire. I'll altogether remove the bottom dark green that previously ran to the old coil, but leave the second dark green on the bottom of resistor that runs to the R terminal on the starter.

Does this sound right?

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
This was another question I was going to bring up. I'd read many threads going back and forth about whether or not there'd be a "waiting period" before starting and whether or not you could leave the ignition switch on without the engine running without doing damage.

Thanks
 
#10 ·
Super suggestion! Not fully understanding what moving parts I was dealing with in that area (Other than the shaft and advance weights) I tried to follow the route of the previous coil wire going through the bottom grommet. I just watched a video on Youtube on how vac advance works in a distributor and he actually did a demonstration of exactly what you suggested. I now see what moves with the advance and why I should check it. Hopefully the advance and the wires won't rub. If they do I'll be back with more questions ;)

Thanks
 
#11 ·
Good thing I did a vac test on the movement of the breaker plate as it was indeed hitting the two wires the way I'd originally ran them. I rerouted the wires to go between the vac advance arm and the distributor housing and then under the arm and out the bottom, rather than over and down. Now the breaker plate moves freely without touching the wires when under vac. The factory wire was stiffer and smaller diameter, plus there was only the one, so it was probably ok to go over the arm without being in the way.

This forum is great!

Thanks again,
Rich
 

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#12 ·
Looks good Rich :):congrats:
 
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