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Old 08-01-2017, 09:43 PM   #691
Chevyragtop57

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Good job. Mike
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Collecting cars 50 years.
I still have my very first car a (57 Chevy Bel Air 2 door sedan) and several 5 6 and 7's now.
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:56 AM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitchin'57 View Post
Since I don't smoke, and I will punch in the face anyone that tries to light up in any of my cars, I reassigned the cigarette lighter bezel to cell phone recharging duty. In order to do that, my machinist friend at work made this aluminum adapter for me.
Any chance your friend could make more? I would love one of those! And what USB socket did you use?
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:35 AM   #693
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Any chance your friend could make more? I would love one of those! And what USB socket did you use?
No chance, sorry. The machinist who made the part for me left the company and moved out of state.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:16 PM   #694
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No problem, I always find the cool stuff too late.
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:10 PM   #695
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About the fender curvature template... wow am I glad I found your post! I'm experiencing the very same issues and thought it was something I did when I replaced the rockers, even though I measured and made a template of the original rocker/door curvature!

I will do something similar to your idea to fix my fender curvature t the bottom. Great work and thanks!
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:29 PM   #696
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About the fender curvature template... wow am I glad I found your post! I'm experiencing the very same issues and thought it was something I did when I replaced the rockers, even though I measured and made a template of the original rocker/door curvature!

I will do something similar to your idea to fix my fender curvature t the bottom. Great work and thanks!
Glad I could help! To de-curve the fender, you will need to first drill out some of the spot welds in order to release the sheet metal from the support bracket, and make several cuts in the flange. Once you have the shape you want, you may need to make some cuts through the support, bend it so it meets up with the fender's new shape, and then clamp the support, the template, and the fender together, and carefully weld it back together. I suggest you tack it in a few spots, and put it back on the car for a test fit. If the shape looks good, go ahead and finish welding it up.
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Old 08-07-2017, 08:28 PM   #697
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These pieces just arrived. The last of the metal repair on the car involves replacing the bottom of the passenger side door.

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Old 08-13-2017, 12:32 PM   #698
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Small project update.
With respect to new parts that came in, I have:
* half of the Danchuk side trim moldings
* all of the side trim molding clips from Danchuk
* new hood latch assembly
* the long Bel Air top of the fin crown molding assemblies from Danchuk

I placed an order for a torque converter from Circle D. It is designed to have a stall speed of 3,000 to 3,200 rpm.

This weekend, I've been working on replacing the bottom section of my passenger side door, which was chewed up from rust. I've got the new piece fitted in, and the next step (as soon as the rain stops) is to epoxy prime the new piece on both sides. Then, I'l hit it with a few tack welds, and test fit the door on the car, just to make sure the contour is correct. In retrospect, I should have made some templates beforehand, but oh well.
The biggest issue I had with the new piece was the stepped area in the door jam. As you can see, the new piece wasn't even close. So, I had to graft that portion of the original metal onto the new piece, and all is well again.





The inside surface of the inner stiffening bracket was rusty, so I wire brushed it and gave it a coat of POR-15. I got ahead of myself and welded it on........before I epoxy primed the new piece! Fortunately, I have a solution for that. I have some rust prevention spray from Eastwood I can shoot in behind the bracket.

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Old 08-14-2017, 07:15 AM   #699
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Nice work on the door Dave!

Dave
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