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When the glove box door was on last time, even though I had made up a couple of shims to go under the hinge, it was sitting too low. So I made up more shims using some off white Kydex (plastic). Adding two more brought it up level with the ashtray, and it still opens and closes nicely.
For such a relatively simple item, the kick panel on the passenger side was a giant PITA. There's no way I'd ever use cardboard, as it just doesn't stand up. The material has to flex quite a bit, so normally I use 1.7mm aircraft grade birch plywood. It's tough, bends easily, and is waterproof. But no matter which way I ran the grain I couldn't get it to lay properly. If those speakers were being surface mounted it wouldn't have been an issue, but as they're hidden it's a whole new ball game. So I ended up using .025" aluminum. I bent it as needed to fit around the speaker, yet still be able to tuck into the windlace retainer, which was fine...except near the bottom. The panel was sitting too far in and the gap was really noticeable. A small block of wood worked to keep it out further, but I still needed to make a slight reverse bend at the base to close the gap completely. Once I had the fit corrected, I drilled holes in the panel, washed the latex backing off the fabric in the speaker area, and glued the fabric on.
The panel looks good, and sits nicely in place with no screws or clips. However, it requires one heck of a lot of flexing to get it in position! I'm hoping the driver's side doesn't put up as much of a fight.
Decided to leave the other kick panel for today, and figured I'd get the passenger side finished off. That seat is heavy, and because the inside seat shell next to the console can't be accessed with the seat bolted in, the backrest must stay on during any re & re. It also makes the bolts tougher to get at, especially with the carpet. But it's in! Only a couple of minor snags: The seat belt bolt covers I used interfere with the inside seat shells, so those are now gone and have been replaced by the plastic ones from Julianos. That seat belt clip that I made will have to be modified. It doesn't look like there's enough room next to the backrest to easily unclip them from each side, so I need to re-make the top piece so they snap on from the rear. No big deal, I just need to grab the pieces I left at the plating shop first thing Monday morning. I also need to taper the armrest foam a bit further so it clears the backrest when the lid is opened. Again, no big deal. I'm going to add about 1-1/4" more foam to the top as well, which will bring it up level with the armrests on the doors.
__________________ 40 Years of Professional Restoration of anything on a 55-57 Chevy
Michael Domoracki (Mikey)
The Stainless Shoppe Restorations
N8143 State HWY 55
Seymour WI 54165
Email: [email protected]
920 833 0290 Sunday -Friday 8AM till Sundown. Closed Sabbath until Sundown Saturday night
For such a relatively simple item, the kick panel on the passenger side was a giant PITA. There's no way I'd ever use cardboard... I ended up using .025" aluminum.... it requires one heck of a lot of flexing to get it in position!
You got that right! I used ABS sheet for the set I put in my '56 sedan. It's waterproof and can be heated to retain some contour. What I used was a little thicker than necessary, but worked nicely...after I wrestled it into position.
The whole look is fantastic. ...almost complete!!
I knew that I'd probably jinxed myself when I said I was done with fabrication. Spent a good portion of today (off the clock as it was my bad) re-making the bracket assembly for clipping on the seat belts. The way it worked out left the top plate looking out of balance, and slightly naked, so I dressed it up with a crest emblem I had left over from my panel truck project. I had to make both pieces new, as the mounting bolts ended up in totally different locations. I'll have to get them to the plating shop first thing tomorrow. I also raised the foam on the lid, and re-shaped the profile so it clears the backrest. There's a bit of a flaw in the overall design, as the passenger seat will always need to be in the rear most position when the lid is opened. Arlen is a tall person (unlike me) so I imagine the driver seat will always be pushed back, and he'll have both seats aligned 99% of the time. Anyone who is riding shotgun will just have to deal with it.
Although I've had to go onto another customers project today, I got pretty excited when the replacement speedometer face plate finally showed up in the mail. Opened it and discovered that not only did they forget to paint the black around the border (the main reason the original one needed to be replaced), but they've cut one side too short, and there's a slight gap beside the housing! Arrgghhh!!!! I tried to fiddle with it and see if I could shift it over, but it's just not going to happen, and without the black border you can see the raw edges inside. *&^%$#@!!