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Old 06-13-2017, 11:31 AM   #1
Mr. Sinister
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Default Question for bucket seat guys

I just picked up a pair of bucket seats (no idea what they're out of, but they're in great shape and are comfortable) with tracks. Everything is manually adjustable, so I'm good there. I got some universal brackets that you can adjust the height a little with for the front, and I figure I can whip something up for the rear if necessary.
I'm wondering if you guys are finding you had to make spacers to raise your buckets up, of if they pretty much dropped right in? Sitting in the driver's seat on the floor, it's hard to tell how close they are to where they'd need to be. Won't know for sure until I go to mount them, I suppose.

Seats: http://imgur.com/I7dytCd

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Old 06-13-2017, 12:12 PM   #2
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Every set of seats is different on the mounting due to how many different floor configurations there is.
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:53 PM   #3
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The stock seats in these cars sit too high in my opinion. I'm only about 6 feet, and when I get into a stocker my head almost hits the headliner. My upper body seems too high in the window also, I don't like it.

Before starting to make mounts for the buckets in my 56 I struggled for two days figuring out the right height by using 2x4 blocks and other pieces of wood.

Once I found THAT then came the next struggle,
After mentally going through 6 or 8 different over-complicated designs of mounts I finally did the simplest and easiest. Since my car is a 'simple' hotrod and not a show piece I found it easy to do. My seat itself brackets are similar to yours so I just took cut pieces of angle iron (four pieces per seat) and welded and bolted them to the floor. That allowed me to stagger the hole height, since our cars' floors drop altitude as it gets closer to the door. When I go to do carpet all I'll have to do is cut slits where the angle sticks up, which is plenty better than trying to find bolt holes after the carpet is down IMO.

For the sides I cut and bent these covers out of flat sheet of 16 gauge to finish off the sides to hide the angle and the under part of the seats.



Am curious to see what you end up with.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:32 PM   #4
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You'll need to do something with your seat mounts to deal with the floor.

The floor is 1-1/4" higher next to the trans tunnel than at the original seat mount.

On mine I used a 1-1/2" square tube on the outside mount, and the inside mount was made from 1/4" thick flat bar. This made the seats I have sit level since they were designed for a flat floor. They are from a late 90s Chrysler. They are 6 way power. I found that midway up on the height adjustment was roughly the same as the stock seat height. I don't remember how much adjustment the seat has but I can get lower than stock, or tilt the seat a bit if it's not at the lowest it can be. I have no desire to "lay back" the seats as some do, but a "bit" is good for me - like 1" difference from flat.

I would recommend that you build the mounts as low as possible or close to it while keeping the seat level. You can always add some spacers if too low.

My outside mounts have brackets that bolt to the original seat mount holes, which are reinforced in the floor. On the inside, I extended that mount back to where it bolts through long brace under the floor. The seat has an inner seat belt mount on it, so securing the rear inner mount to good structure was important to me.
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:42 AM   #5
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Thanks fellas. I bought a pack of 2" body washers to use as shims to determine how tall the eventual risers will have to be. My front mounts are angled steel with 3 levels of holes in them for height adjustment, and I can compensate for the floorpan angle from there with risers if need be.

Are you guys finding the original bench rear mount hole works for locating the rails, or do you end up too far forward or backward? The seats I bought have a pretty good amount of adjustment front to back.

Here's the front mounts I bought to deal with the vertical tabs on the rails: http://imgur.com/fQvAthf

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Old 06-14-2017, 09:27 AM   #6
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That's interesting. Didn't know that those were available.



Another thing I didn't mention is the fact that I personally don't like it when the seats themselves stick up too high in the windows. For some reason I like it when you can look all the way through the glass and see pretty much nothing. The only exception of course is if one of these cars has a cage in it. I had to compromise on that some, and it made my height struggle even more so. My seats have removable headrests so that part made it a little easier by allowing me to pull them if I chose.
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Old 06-14-2017, 10:05 AM   #7
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That's interesting. Didn't know that those were available.



Another thing I didn't mention is the fact that I personally don't like it when the seats themselves stick up too high in the windows. For some reason I like it when you can look all the way through the glass and see pretty much nothing. The only exception of course is if one of these cars has a cage in it. I had to compromise on that some, and it made my height struggle even more so. My seats have removable headrests so that part made it a little easier by allowing me to pull them if I chose.
They're technically for side mount seats, but I figured they'd work well for my needs. They should give the the adjustment needed to level the seat, and compensate for any angle in the floorpan near the tunnel.

I'm with you on the clean line of sight through the window. I already pulled the headrests off. I'd like to actually sit a little higher in the car than my bench seat allows now, but the bench springs are also fairly worn.

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Old 06-14-2017, 06:43 PM   #8
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I'm with you on the clean line of sight through the window. I already pulled the headrests off. I'd like to actually sit a little higher in the car than my bench seat allows now, but the bench springs are also fairly worn.
Well to be honest I pulled mine long ago also. They are very comfortable, but I just can't stand look of them when viewing through the back glass from behind, or the side for that matter. Luckily for me the tops of my buckets line up right at the tops of my doors. Any higher and I'd be disappointed.

Now that you say it, all of the tri5's I've been in over the last few years have been freshly restored or built. It could be that fresh foam was causing me to feel like I had to bend my neck to keep my head off the headliners. Maybe with worn in foam it wouldn't be so bad. Whatever the cause I was determined that my car wasn't going to be that way.

Way back in 72 I bought a 68 BB Chevelle, and I still remember to this day how much I liked sitting down lower in that thing over my old 56 I sold to help me get the Chevelle.
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:27 AM   #9
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Well to be honest I pulled mine long ago also. They are very comfortable, but I just can't stand look of them when viewing through the back glass from behind, or the side for that matter. Luckily for me the tops of my buckets line up right at the tops of my doors. Any higher and I'd be disappointed.

Now that you say it, all of the tri5's I've been in over the last few years have been freshly restored or built. It could be that fresh foam was causing me to feel like I had to bend my neck to keep my head off the headliners. Maybe with worn in foam it wouldn't be so bad. Whatever the cause I was determined that my car wasn't going to be that way.

Way back in 72 I bought a 68 BB Chevelle, and I still remember to this day how much I liked sitting down lower in that thing over my old 56 I sold to help me get the Chevelle.
The difference is probably intended purpose. Tri-fives were more or less family cars thst guys have turned into muscle cars, whereas Chevelles were designed to be muscle cars. So you're upright and proper in a factory tri-five seat, and you're nice and low in a Chevelle. Even the benches feel lower in muscle cars.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:22 AM   #10
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I picked up some 1.25" thick aluminum flat stock to use as spacers for the outside mounts, and to help distribute the weight a bit. I plan to tackle this some time this week if the temperature and humidity take a break.
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