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700R4 Transmission Mount

7K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  Rods56 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm sure this query has been raised before, but I need to open a new thread on it.
I have a split frame I'm using for my '55 Nomad project. It has been sand blasted and powder coated. The 350 sb has been mounted and the new Sanderson block hugger headers are clearing everything nicely including the Borgeson 600 steering box.
The headers are shorties and the collectors are not positioned perfect, but OK. My problem is with the 700R4 tranny mount. It secures nicely on the inside parts of the frame, but it obstructs the path for the exhaust pipes.
I used a different mount when I installed a similar tranny on one of my '56's, but it had to be modified to mount on the bottom side of the frame allowing passage of the exhaust pipes along the inside of frame.
My question is whether there is a 700R4 tranny mount that will bolt on to the bottom side of the frame without having to be modified?
Any ideas before I buy the curved support from Summit?
Bob

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#3 ·
either of the afore mentioned units work very well. what you have currently is a poor choice and looks like someone just thru something in there with no regard to where the exhaust would go.
 
#5 ·
That cross member came as part of a kit I bought for a 350 tranny. The guy installed it because it was what he had available. He is the one who brought it to my attention that the mount would make the exhaust pipes hang to low.
I know there's one from Summit I can use by modifying it.. I used it on my '56 with the 700R4. Using an "H" pipe will create a tight fit.
Bob
 
#8 ·
Earl Williams has nice ones at a reasonable price.
 
#10 ·
Dang, this looks like the one I used on my '56 4dr HT. But I do remember it had to be modified.
The frame on the 4dr '56 is a "California" frame which has a wider spacing between frame members. The Nomad frame I'm using has the narrower split frame spacing, which may mean no modifying is necessary.
On a side note, there's a rear shock mount bracket sold by just about everyone that wont fit on a "California" frame. The shock mount is a half inch too short.
Bob
 
#11 ·
Bob,

What you have now is what I started with on my 57. Here's what I did. Mine has a Muncie instead of auto. Same problem with exhaust routing. (2.5 inch exhaust pipes coming from rams horn exhaust manifolds). Bought the one like Acardon posted. Same problem, not enough clearance. On to plan C. Took the original one and cut and "notched" it up so exhaust pipes went through the "notches". Since it was made out of square tubing, it was relatively easy to do.

Fuzz

:gba:

MAGA
 
#14 ·
These our some other crossmembers I have considered. I bought a kit from Performance Online a couple years back and just now getting ready to install it. I have the same crossmember as the OP has. I like these xcrossmembers better for the same reasons. Any experience with either of these kits? The kit from Speedway uses self tapping bolts. Do you think they are strong enough?
Hopefully whatever comments/replies will help the OP & myself.

http://hhclassic.com/i-13874910-tra...7XgO7EAQYBSABEgLtSvD_BwE#wsm-prod-tab-details


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-...MIyJat0sym1gIVFGp-Ch37XgO7EAQYASABEgLhlvD_BwE
 
#15 · (Edited)
This is what I'm expecting today. Hopefully install it this weekend.
Danchuk # 12198
Personally, I think that being tubular will be stronger and won't fatigue. I plan to replace the self tapping bolts with longer bolts that go through the frame.
Bob

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#18 ·
This is what I'm expecting today. Hopefully install it this weekend.
Danchuk # 12198
Personally, I think that being tubular will be stronger and won't fatigue. I plan to replace the self tapping bolts with longer bolts that go through the frame.
Bob

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do not drill all the way thru the frame. not needed and can cause frame buckling. use a nutsert in the inside wall . the only way to bolt thru the frame is if you put a sleeve into the frame to prevent crush.
 
#22 ·
It does come with two mounts but no instructions on how to use them. I may pick up on Steve's suggestion and weld the two angle brackets currently bolted on. I plan to have it done this AM.
On another note, I'm feeling bummed out as my Dad passed away a week ago. We have a service/viewing for him tomorrow, and his funeral on Monday. Mass for him will be performed for him at the church where he and my Mom were married more than 75 years ago.
Bob
 
#30 ·
Everything is bolted down. Everything is powder coated and welding will make it look like hell.
Positioning was done by making sure frame was level, and then setting tranny so that the level bubble was at about a 16th below tdc.
Bob

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View attachment 157504
Two things; if the crossmember is too high as in the last image, you may have issues with the body touching (floor interference) Second, guessing the engine centerline angle is a possible exercise in disaster. It needs to be 4 degrees down. Past that along with any steep angle of the pinion may develop into U-Joint issues. Some things just need to be closer than what an eyeball says. JMHO and certainly with all due respect.
 
#36 ·
I bought a Camaro cross-member when I installed a 350 about 30 years ago...and I am using the same cross-member for my 700R-4 or for the 200R-4. The only Mod I made was making the 2 X 3 angles that mount to the frame 12 inches long instead of the 3-4 inch originals. That way, regardless of the transmission I use...I can simply drill the new position on the cross-member support instead of drilling more holes in the frame. The holes are slotted for UP/Down adjustment on the 12 inch frame mounts. On one side the two inch side of the angle is bolted to the cross-member, but on the other side it is the 3 inch side...as originally designed for mounting a 350. No extra holes in frame.

Rods56
 
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