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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone!
In the past I have asked, and received, wonderful help for my e-problems with my 57 wagon which I did a frame-off, complete rebuild including new wiring harness and all associated parts. All electrical worked fine for about a month then idiot light came on (flickered and remained on constantly) and I began loosing single circuits including horn, fuel gauge and back-up lights. I took the alternator brand new from (Delco 10SI, 90 Amp) to a local auto electric specialist (in his 70s and only does electric and starters, a true mechanic genius) and he tore it apart and tested every component and found a internal voltage regulator that was generating over 16 volts with no load, and instead of the required 40 ohm resistor it was actually a 100 ohm one. He replaced both and it works like a charm (idiot light out and output to specs). The question I have is do I need to replace the horn relay (we bypassed it and the horns work fine), gas tank sending unit and/or fuel gauge? With the alternator in these still do not work (haven't checked the back up yet). I wonder if this has happened to others since how would one figure out the wrong resistors are in a 10SI?
Thanks,
Al
 

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I don't know about building them wrong with the wrong resistor, but I do know that a once good regulator can fail and the voltage will go sky high. If you drive the vehicle for any length of time when this happens, especially at night, the first thing that will happen is you'll blow every light bulb. Then it will start attacking other things.

I could see a problem with the horn relay or the gauge(s). It shouldn't hurt the gas tank sender.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alternator

Thanks Don and Rick!
Neat looking device that I will pick up. One brake light bulb was blown but otherwise no problems. Fixed the backup lights which was a shift detente and linkage problem so they work fine. Will use the East Coast Chevy Tech article , and other past posts by Don, to troubleshot the gauge/sending unit.
Thanks again,
Al
 

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Control voltage vs. current load

The question I have is do I need to replace the horn relay (we bypassed it and the horns work fine)
The horn control circuit is designed to operate the relay, not the horns. The relay is there to do the heavy work.

I suggest putting a working horn relay back in the circuit. The horns pull a lot of current and will eventually roast the control components.

JMO
 

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That's why it call an idiot light, it doesn't tell you much. Sometimes you'll smell the battery boiling acid when you have a overvoltage situation. This is the handiest device for monitering your charging system if you don't have a voltmeter on the dash. ...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/390174842320?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=390174842320&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr Pop it in the cigrette lighter ocasionally and know that everythings OK.
Hey Acardon, Just got mine in the mail today. These are neat! I ordered from the supplier you supplied. Thanks Jim
 
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