Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 265 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to build my 265 for my 55 as I collect up what I need to do it the way I want it to run. I am SO tired of all the haters who say "build a 350, it is a waste of your money ! There is no replacement for displacement ! A 350 will turn up 6,000 plus RPM no problem. Chevy quit making the 265/283/302 for a reason. They can't hold a candle to a 350/383, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH ! " I built a 350 and it runs damn good in my car. Only built it 23 years ago cuz it came in the car I bought. Only used it now cuz I wanted the car on the road. Can't knock, strong running and a blast to drive. But met up with an old body man/ engine builder/restorer who is well in his 80's but is an original gasser guy. Alcohol burning big cube Cadillac 55 Chevy back in the day. He asked "what's it got in it ?" A 350 I said. He said "oh, nothing special huh ? " Made me think yep, he is right. All the people who build big dollar, huge torque monster motors, in my opinion are wasting more money than I will. Most of them NEVER take their cars to the track, SO how many times do they really get to use their mega power mega money engine ? Almost never, just bragging rights ! My car will be dual duty but most on the street. A 12 - 13 second car is plenty fun enough on the street. I want here this thing wind up to 6 - 7 grand next to some ricer crap so I don't hear his fart can muffler anymore ! Not knocking the 350 again, I built one, anyone can build one and make power easy. How about REALLY scratch building an engine and stumping the mass of big mouths !?!?! LONG LIVE THE 3" SBC's !!!
I am also going to build it like my dad built his engines when he was a kid. What was available, best bang for the buck. It may not all be period correct but I am going to use any and all parts from all decades of the small block to achieve my goal strong running street 265 ! I am going to use small chamber 305 heads. Can I use 1.94 valves without them being shrouded if I bore it 60 over ? Does anyone know the cc's of the dish in stock 265 pistons ? What lift, duration, especially lobe separation cam should I use to make between 300-350 hp with 9 - 9.5:1 compression ? What flywheel is best ? Sorry to write a book ! Your input will be helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,018 Posts
I know hardly anything about 265's or 283's, but I know a true 12 second street car isn't actually that easy even with a 350/383. I hope you're planning on running some really serious gears about back (like 4.88's) and winding it past 7K...you're gonna have to spin that little bad boy to the moon to make that much power.

Have you thought about investing some money in aftermarket heads? An efficient head will put way ahead in the power game...same with a roller cam (although I don't know if you can put one in a 265)...maybe a flat tappet (I think that'd be pretty cool actually!).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,962 Posts
Good luck for your 265 build. I just built "nothing special" 388 to my '56...:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The big reason for this build is my son wants to learn how to build an engine. He also wants a 55, so I will give him my 350 when the time comes. I think it will be funny that I have a numbers matching engine to my car and I am building a hot rod out of it instead of a 1,000 point show car ! Most of the parts and title to my car were from my dad's high school hot rod. He pulled this out of his car in 1960 and he has kept it ever since ! Hey Finn, your 388 sounds cool. I help support whatever someone is building, it's theirs, try to see the dream with them, not put it down. There is a large group of people who should just help out instead of put down someones idea. That is what this hobbies is all about, do it the way you want. I will NEVER tell someone they are wasting their time, just me I guess. I am looking to have low 13 sec car, maybe high 12's. If my dad could build an all steel 283 with 370 gears and a 4 speed that was a mid 14 second car in 1960 on a budget, by all the stuff to choose from now and good traction today, there is no reason I shouldn't be able to achieve this goal without breaking the bank. HUTCHENC, I have thought about aftermarket heads (aluminum) if you know of some that have a small combustion chamber like the 305's. I am still doing alot of research on parts and tricks to achieve it. Retro roller cams, rockers better cam technology should help pull a different potential out of this little powerplant. Even going to 10:1 compression may be the case, I know much more above that the and streetability will be gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
I think that it is great that you are building a 265 for your 55. There is no reason that it cannot be built to be a fun to drive responsive engine. As stated you will have to wind it tight to produce the horsepower you are after but with the right combination of parts it can be done. I have all of the parts collected and the machine work done to build my version of the 60's high school hot rod engine I have always wanted. I am building a 283 270 hp with some period upgrades. Crowler cam, 461 heads, headers TRW pop up pistons and a stock 2X4 WCFB set up. What ever you do replace the rods with the 62-66 327 rods and use ARP bolts in them, the stock rods are a weak spot in the early 283-265 engines. In anticipation of high rpm launches I had my block align bored, used ARP main studs, Had the crank indexed when it was ground, and had the rotating assembly balanced. I also recommend decking the block square, Keep us updated on your progress, I am subscribing to this thread as I am interested in how it turns out. Good luck.
Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,962 Posts
I can see where you coming from, don't get me wrong...i'm all in to 'dare to be different' stuff...actually I'm all the way to anything which keeps this hobby and classic cars and motorcycles (and boats...you name it...lol) alive, no matter if theres latest crate engine or model A flat four banger. Like said build it the way YOU want it and I hope you meet your goals and more! :shakehands:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
50,811 Posts
Reguardless of what others say or think, its your motor and your dream.....I say, GO FOR IT!!!! :congrats:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to all for the support. Those heads bring up a question. Can i run 1.94 valves on the stock bore ? If not how much does it need to be over bored ? Also, does the valve then need to be unshrouded and do I need to machine clearance in the top of the cylinder wall to make clearance ? Is there a truck or car flywheel that is heavy than most other cars that anyone knows of ? I feel one thing that will help some and I know it's only SOME low end torque, is adding some amount of weight to the rotating assembly. Hence the flywheel question. I also have a few ideas for the piston/rod configuration but that will take some more research and then I will let you know. What type of cam is also another question. This is just thinking but based on everyones suggestion and info., I am thinking a cam that is the .450 lift range, 280 duration range with a tight lobe separation 106-108 ? Any suggestions are welcome. I've built engines but we know this one is a little different. My thinking is since you have to keep up the RPM and keep it tight the lobe separation needs to be. It isn't going to need alot of lift as it needs a longer fill of fuel air, thus the duration and lift I stated above. If I I sucking wind in my thoughts, I am all ears as to what everyone thinks. There is also another possibility for an engine build. A "Baby LT" is 265 cubes that has 9+ compression and is already roller cam ready. Only problem is that isn't a REAL 265 but it could be an interesting build too !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am leaning toward this for piston/rods. The baby LT1 has the same bore as a 305 at 3.736 but these engines were all flat top 4 relief pistons with a 58cc chamber making 9.8:1 compression. since that engine had a 3" stroke too, the made 5.94 long rods to make up the the difference. this is an exact fit to a gen 1 small block since these gen 2 blocks used all the same dimensions except the rods journals are 2.1 instead of 2.0. The make these pistons new up to .040 for about $120 a set ! They make reftrofit bearings to put larger rods to the smaller journals. Most of the 305 heads have 1.84 intake valves and have 58cc chambers. Puts the CR right were it needs to be and they are all cheap attainable parts. Just need to figure out which of them is best. The early 80's version, vortecs or swirl ports. I have found now definitive numbers or recomendations as to which is the best. I also want to know if anybody knows how many cc's the dish in stock 265 pistons are ? I fit is close to 5cc's, then I will just use them and the 53cc heads and I should fit somewhere in the mid 9.x:1 compression.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,962 Posts
You might want to consider forged or at least hyperteutectic pistons for your build and like said connecting rods are weak link which should be upgraded...the fact is that you have to spinn that engine to make some decent horsepower.

Those trickflow heads would really make your project goals easier to achieve. The really nice thing with street trickflow heads is that they work great with mid lift area and that´s important because you can´t run huge by large camshaft in your engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Those are both good reasons for me to use the piston/rods I described from the baby LT1. They are hyperteutectic and powdered metal rods that are supposed to hold up to alot of abuse.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
405 Posts
I love this thread. I've been thinking about rebuilding the 265 out of my '55 Bel Air to use in a T-bucket or '32 Ford, in order to give it that proper period correct look. Those Trick Flow aluminum heads look like a really good option compared to some cast iron 305 heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I looked into a set of affordable pistons and rods for use in a 265 I have . A set of 305 pistons could be fitted but the comp. height was wrong because of the 3.48 stroke so I looked for some longer rods with a big end to fit the 2" crankpin. I found something similar in a V/8 Rover rod and am still trying to get more info. Where did you find a bearing spacer from 2.100 to 2" ? I know a spacer is made for a small journal crank into a large journal block and spacers for a 400 block to install a 350 crank to build a 377 but never found a set of rod bearing spacers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I did a search on ebay. You should be able to get them through any machine shop too. The 350 in 55 now came from my good old 65 Biscayne. Engine had to be rebuilt because it heated up the bearings due to a lack of oil. When the crank was checked, it had to have the journals ground .010 and the mains .020. It has been running oversize bearings the whole time and I have run it up to 6500 rpm many times, no problems. Snaptwo, look back throught this thread and check out what I wrote about the baby LT1. The 5.94 rod they put in those is exactly what you need to run a 305 piston in a 265. I haven't found a .060 piston but I have found a .040. They are hyperteutectic and cheap. They made the baby lt1 from 94-96 in a ton of cprices. It was rated at 200 hp with a roller cam. It might even be interesting to build one of them cuz i am sure the whole engine could be bought for peanuts. The reverse cooling helps the lt1 run better and it doesn't take muck to modify a standard small block manifold to fit the vortec style head. And I agree GOCAMARO27. If I can find the trick flows used, I will get them. My question is this: Are they all 1.94 intakes ? Since I don't have the engine apart yet I don't know what size bore is needed to use a 1.94 valve or if it even can be in a 265. If anyone knows I'd like to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Building the 265"

Couple items, you can use the 305" pistons in that unit with a 6.000" rod.

Have done it in the past! You'll need a 1.540" C.H. and some minor machining.

If you "stay-the-course" and do this 265" I would recommend having the machine shop "connect" the 2 cam brg oil feed holes under the rear brg to eliminate the "flat" required on the early cams. It was originally designed to feed oil to the top on every revolution of the cam.

By doing this procedure it allows the use of any conventional SB cam, it will not need that "flat" machined into the rear journal of the new cam.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. These small units run excellent as long as you're not trying to break any speed records. We've done a fair number of 100% stock-appearing builds, mostly Vette's, over the years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks GOFAST, you just helped reasure me it will work. As I reasearched the BABY LT1 spec.s that's when I decided I could use that rod/piston combo. Puts the piston right where it needs to be. I plan on connecting the oil holes myself before the block gets sent out. I have a very respected engine shop up the street from me, so I know I can count on them installing the cam bearings and rear freeze plug correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I have a question about what I can run for intake valves in my 265. I am sure 1.84 's in the 305 head or any head for that matter will be fine. If I run 1.94's or even 2.02's, how much overbore is needed ? What special machining is required to make either of them work ? I have a plan to run a roller cam and lifters but modify the block and a set of dog bones and spider from an lt1 so then I can use those lifters and push rods without breaking the bank. I feel that freeing up the friction and the weight of the retro-fit rollers will help free up some lost power in the little engine. Dog bones, spider and lifters can be bought from Summit for around $200. Can't even by the retro-rollers for that. That should help free up money for the cam !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think this is the cam I am going to go with for the build when I get that far:

Brand:Howards Cams
Manufacturer's Part Number:112581-12
Part Type:Camshafts
Product Line:Howards Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number:HRS-112581-12

Cam Style:Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,600-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:225
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:235
Duration at 050 inch Lift:225 int./235 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:279
Advertised Exhaust Duration:289
Advertised Duration:279 int./289 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.465 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.470 in.


This part number ends in 12 for 112 lobe separation. They make it in a 108 and 110 also. Which lobe separation do you guys think will be best ? Car will see drag strip runs but will mostly be on the street. Will the wider lobe separation help me with the small low end this engine will have or should I go with one of the others ? Any help will be appreciated. The engine will be 9.5 - 10:1 when all is assembled. Most likely.030 over (269 CU), 600-650 carb, single plain manifold.
 
1 - 20 of 265 Posts
Top