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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys . i had afire in my engine compartment recently . i tried to start the engine the other day . it has water in the engine sump. i did a compression test . # 6 cylinder had low pressure . i took the head off . there was water in the cylinder . the head gasket looked good . i turned the engine to get the piston to bottom dead center . the cylinder wall has a crack .the block is 40over . forged pistons and nice cam , it was 11 to 1 compression . the only thing i think off is that it had very hot oil or no oil for it to crack. should i save the block . and can i use the rotating assembly in another block .

thanks
AL
 

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AL.....Just one man's opinion.....I believe that at .040 over and one cracked cylinder, I'd be looking for another block.
 

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I dropped a valve in a FalconII aka Nova that had a nice .030 350, I jusr got it back from the machine shop with a new sleeve. I have no problem with that. especially since I traded a junk 9 inch ford for the labor
 

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There's no reason you can't sleeve the block to save it - provided that the damage you found is the only damage.

Regardless of what you do to fix it, the engine has to come out of the car. So pull it and tear it down and see where you stand.

I don't make any connection between a fire and this problem though?????

40-50 years ago, sleeves were prone to slipping or cracking. That is a thing of the past if properly installed.

I'd certainly sleeve to save an otherwise good rotating assembly.

Another block and using your rotating assembly is a decent choice also.
 

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SLEEVES OK

SLEVING IS A GOOD WAY TO SAVE AN ENGINE ALTHOUGH i 'D USE SOME TYPE OF LEAK SEALER ON INITAL STARTUP WE USED TO USE WATER GLASS ON STARTUP AS A PRECAUTION. ALTHOUGH WITH A CRACK IN A BLOCK THAT'S ALREADY 40 OVER I'D SONIC CHECK THE BLOCK BEFORE SLEEVING IT
 

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SLEVING IS A GOOD WAY TO SAVE AN ENGINE ALTHOUGH i 'D USE SOME TYPE OF LEAK SEALER ON INITAL STARTUP WE USED TO USE WATER GLASS ON STARTUP AS A PRECAUTION. ALTHOUGH WITH A CRACK IN A BLOCK THAT'S ALREADY 40 OVER I'D SONIC CHECK THE BLOCK BEFORE SLEEVING IT
Even when sleeving you will distort the cylinders next to the one with a sleeve which makes for poor ring seal.

Any OEM block that comes through our door we sonic test it first even before its cleaned and we have about 40 or so blocks that I would not use for a performance build because of thin cylinders.

Don't go by core shift because if you own a sonic tester you will see its a myth and is not credible.

I would find another block.

Good luck in the future
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks guys .you are right . i will take it apart and maybe save the block. i think i will sleeve it . i will strip the block and take it to ashop sleeve it and check the block.i have a 327 rotating assembly in it . this will be cheaper and more fun since i havent rebuild anything for awhile . i have camelhump heads and victor junior intake nice solid cam .i liked that engine it had over 400 hp. i will keep it .
thanks for your cool advice.
AL:)
 

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Al... thanks for starting this thread. Now I know I can save my corvette 327 thats been sitting my garage with a cracked #7 cyl. I've been holding on to this engine because I am sentimental to the corvette 327s. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hey belairrudy,cool man . i coudnt find a nice 327 so i made my own .for now i might find another short block and use my set up in it till i repair this block.it all depends how cheap i can get a nice 40 over short block.a body of mine has a 350 40 over roller short block looks nice just rebuilt he wants 700 for it . i told him i will think about . in any condition i will defently repair this block..

AL
 

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If people don't like to put a sleeve in a Chevy block that has been s tested, then you better not say that to Ron Hutter if you no who he is, he'll sleeve all 8 holes and i've seen it and i'm not going to say why he does it.
 

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I've sleeved a couple of race blocks, work done by some well known and well equipped race engine shops, they honed round and clean and on size on the sleeved hole and adjacent holes - I don't see a problem if done competently. This was on race engines where if they didn't meet this criteria or lost power I would have replaced the block. For a street engine the standards are a bit lower to my way of thinking, but you don't have to accept or expect lower, all will be fine if done competently.
 
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