I picked up a 350 that was supposed to have 170,000 on it have some ?
Not that many on the rebuild - maybe total? The grooves on the piston skirt are still relatively good - I wouold say 50K if well maintained, 25K if oil is gummy
How to tell what make of pistons theses are? No markings on pistons except the # M-557 on the inside of the piston.
Most "rebuilder" sets don't have id's stamped on the parts - these look like engintech (but all look somewhat the same) - however ETs are parts #ed with P- for pistons. Noting the relief above the wrist pin they look like rebuilders - they appear that they are compenstated for milling (deck height lowered - I recall the relief for a stock piston does not go all the way to the outer edge). Maybe camera angle light thing - but I see a lot of rounding on the crown and the land between comprings 1 and 2 looks horrible - this thing was abused with timing and lean - note how clean the tops are of the end cylinders - one side of the intake was leaking (the plenum runner that has the plugged vaccum port! - the other bank is probably just opposite with clean center two and dark end cyls)
In the one photo of the #1 & #2 rod ends on the crank #1 rod, you can see it is a reddish color, rods 1,3,5,7, are this reddish color, rods 2,4,6,8 aren't?
What does this indicate?
A "bucket" build - incoming engines are parted and parts tossed in a bucket - one guy may stand there and rize 40 rods in a day and into the ready bucket they go. Then when assembling a handful of rods are grabbed. A lot of assemblers are just drone minded employees who do one side at a time - they go find four rods (or however many needed to do all one direction for the days jobs - make em match somewhat) from the rod bucket and hang em with notch going fwd - then go find more to hang the other side the other way (that way you don't end up with 5 one way and three the other at final assembly!). So some were reddish and some were not. There is no such thing as left or right rods or pistons - this is set when aligning the splash tang on the rod to the fwd notch of piston creating left or right piston/rod assemblies - so its just an attention to detail and doing one side at a time in the rod press that made it work out this way. Obviously from a high volume shop. Volume does not always equal quality!
Also #'s on the heads are 3932441 and the # on the crank is 3932442 does this mean this is the original crank to this block?
Not necessarily - its a comparable though. But if the rods were bucket I would assume so is the crank.
Note the cup of the intakes - one is rounded and one is not - probably stocks from the bucket - but check the OD on the valve faces - if they are .030 over - (a 1.94 rebuilder has a 1.97 diam and a 2.02 has a 2.023 edit oops 2.050 diameter) then they probably also have .015 over stems and may even have an extra .025 taken from the keeper height. Which is okay for street - but I would not use them in anything that is gonna turn over 5000 RPM - weight issue.
