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have your shestmetal box bent in a brake for nice clean edges and glue it together with body adhesive. Maybe make it 2 piece with a top that slides over a bottom tray and then secured with a couple small screws from the bottom
 

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Discussion Starter #702
Figured it has to be held to the carb with the 1/4" center stud, so I'll use that to also hold the top on. A stainless steel allen bolt should do it.
Not sure I want the box that square as a metal brake will get it. I'd prefer rounded corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #703
Once again I started to box up and bring my paint and body filler inside the basement for winter. Once again I got sidetracked on the '39 instead. But I did at least get paint in a box!
It started out pretty cold, but once the sun got up a bit it got very nice out and mid 50's too!! So I decided to pull the hood off the '39 and cut some fiberglass off the sides. I originally cut the sides open, but left the faux trim line that's matching the doors trim line. But the hood was such a fitment issue when I first reworked it that the lines didn't match up. That bugged me, but not much could be done, except not have the trim line. So I marked it out just above the trim line, and used my parting disc to remove it the full length of the hood!
Once I got it cut off I used a flapper disc to smooth the cut edge, and I will seal it with resin later. But cutting that trim off revealed I'd gotten a bit heavy handed when reworking the hood, and that area was only bout 1/8" thick on the driver's side! So I laid the hood upside down outside the shop and ground off all the paint in this area. Then I cut up 6 pieces of woven fiberglass cloth, and fit them to the area. Mixed up a couple oz. of resin, and began brushing and laying down the 6 layers. Left it in the sun to harden, and later I'll trim back the edge to match, and put a little Duraglass over the front side to finish off the repair.
Maybe I'll get that paint put away tomorrow? Or maybe I'll finish up the hood instead? I did get antifreeze checked in all my vehicles today, and added some to the '39 to bring it up just a little better. And got trickle chargers on the coupe and the Austin.
 

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Seen the speedmaster dilemma ya had what a pain ..... tell ya the truth I like the look of the used stacks , good idea.
the garlits one that nad427 showed looks slick but to much bling if there’s such a thing. Seen a 55 with the blue style and a 396 pretty gnarly
326707

It’s getting to be end of season here as well , I’m starting to get things prepped for slumber still have to burn 1/2 tank out of the 65’ So I can top it off all new fuel.
 

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I sure don't miss winter, and love the fact we can drive our toys all year long here in Tucson. Now, my dilemma is deciding to drive my 56 210, my 66 Chevelle or my 71 pickup.
 

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Discussion Starter #706
I sure don't miss winter, and love the fact we can drive our toys all year long here in Tucson. Now, my dilemma is deciding to drive my 56 210, my 66 Chevelle or my 71 pickup.
Thought you guys were reverse to the rest the US, and put your cars away in summer when it got too hot to rive them?
 

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Discussion Starter #707
Got the edges where glass overhung trimmed back, and rough ground. Then I used my long board and coarse sandpaper to get the edge straight again, and rounded it off. Mixed up some Duraglass to fill in the low spots, and roughed that in also. Just needs a tiny bit of thin glazing filler to be ready for primer again.
Did some measuring on my front fenders, and found the passenger side was 1/2" lower than the driver's side. So loosened up all the bolts and put in shims under the front braces to bring it up to match the driver's side.
Began to bend my trunk lid to get rid of the low spot on each side at around 18" from the hinge point. It's fiberglass and those I spoke with said it's best not to try to cut or shape it, since it's less than 3/16" low at this point. So I cut two 20" long 2x4's and stood them on end between the trunk lid and floor. Then attached a ratchet strap across the trunk handle down to each leaf spring, and pulled it tight to bend it. I'll check it each day and add tension, or release it when it matches up to the body along the lid.
 

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Thought you guys were reverse to the rest the US, and put your cars away in summer when it got too hot to rive them?
All my toys have Vintage Air in them, and it works fine. My 56 will run under 200 degrees with the AC running when it's 110 outside. They are never stored away any time of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #709
Got a pair of non period correct valve covers for the '39 Chev. Haven't been happy with the old finned covers, as they're just not that cool. And I found a pair of NOS B&M covers I really wanted, but at $550 on BIN Ebay, I passed.
I located these Brodix valve covers locally for a decent price NIB, so got them for the SBC.



They say "chrome wont help you go faster!" So maybe as cast does? ;) At least they'll make the engine look slightly larger.
 

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I like the cast look over the chrome, besides I’ve always struggled with the chrome anything getting a good seal - more so with oil pans .
 

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Discussion Starter #711
I like the cast look over the chrome, besides I’ve always struggled with the chrome anything getting a good seal - more so with oil pans .
Mine currently are cast finned aluminum, so they seal well. But they're old and dark, and after a lot of wet sanding, and buffing, they still are dark. So I've been looking for a change for awhile.
A friend had these and after years of waffling, he decided they weren't right for his build. I got them a lot cheaper than the current price, so a no brainer. I do need to drill a hole in each for PCV valve, and breather. I ordered Mr Gasket baffled breather grommets since these aren't baffled, and a baffled grommet will keep them cleaner looking vs. drilling and bolting in a baffle.
 

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Discussion Starter #712
Beginning to chip away at my winter projects on the '39. I pulled the valve covers off, and test fitted the new Brodix valve covers. Passenger side just cleared the firewall by 1/4"! Driver's side wouldn't go on at all! Had to remove the coil from the firewall, and then it just cleared the alternator, and slipped over the supplied studs. Once in place the coil can go back on as it's only in the way when sliding them in place. They do make the engine look slightly larger with their physical size, and height.





I also broke out the metal working tools and cut up some sheet metal fillers to weld into the old bumper openings. Ground everything smooth and tacked them in. Still need to hammer them into shape after welding, and give them a coat of filler. Discovered a small crack on the bottom edge of one fender also, so welded that up too.

Next I swapped out the shackles on my front axle springs. I've had these shackles sitting here forever, and wanted to install them to give a slight lift, and slightly more kingpin angle. They're 1.5" longer hole to hole, and have a tube brace welded between the shackles to make them one piece, and an H shape. Which makes them a little stronger also.
That turned out to be more of a task than I thought! One pair had the brace welded in crooked, so the holes didn't align! Couldn't get a bolt through the close fitting holes. I could have opened the holes up, but that didn't sound right. So I cut the tube brace out, put bolts in top and bottom, and welded the brace back in properly aligned. It went right in after that.
The 1.5" taller rear shackle raised the front almost 1", and changed the kingpin angle from 6 degrees, to 7.5 degrees. Should make it track even better, although it tracked fine before too.

Need to check valve lash before putting gaskets on, and finishing the valve covers. And need to see if I still have spare valve cover gaskets too!
 

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A thousand things...but all will make it just that much better. These Chevys (37-39) had a bad habit of cracking in the wheel opening near the top. The way they mount, it's kind of hard to keep it from happening.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #714
A thousand things...but all will make it just that much better. These Chevys (37-39) had a bad habit of cracking in the wheel opening near the top. The way they mount, it's kind of hard to keep it from happening.
JR
Yes the fenders I bought for it had a crack on the driver's side right near the top of the opening. I put a doubler plate behind the crack and welded it up.
This latest crack was down on the front lowest corner. And odd spot to crack I thought, and a weird crack too! It was shaped almost like a "?" shape. I just welded that one as didn't see how it could return.

I put as many braces as I thought would help when I put the front fenders on the car. I have no inner panels, so I used 1" DOM tube I bent in my 3/4" EMT bender to fit braces. I can still see some flexing as I hit bumps, as there's a lot of fender hanging out there unsupported, and no way to add supports way out on the furthest corners either.
 

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Yeah - not running the running boards makes it worse. But if enough thought is taken to brace things as you describe you can avoid most of the problems. When I first built my '38 one of the fenders had a doubler plate at the top of the opening...with cracks on either side!
JR
 

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Just some FYI.

Vall, those cast valve covers are available in plain with no name also. I prefer the no-name covers so I had to do a little hunting til I found some. Found out that there’s Ebay sellers that offer them too.
 

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Discussion Starter #717
I've seen the plain valve covers on Ebay Dan, and they're similar, but not quite the same. Unless you found something I missed? Those I saw were smaller with the sealing edge outside the valve cover, not inside as the Brodix are. And the sealing edge is cast, not a milled smooth surface like the Brodix. Not that they might not work or seal as well, but the Brodix are certainly a very positive sealing valve cover.
 

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I've seen the plain valve covers on Ebay Dan, and they're similar, but not quite the same. Unless you found something I missed? Those I saw were smaller with the sealing edge outside the valve cover, not inside as the Brodix are. And the sealing edge is cast, not a milled smooth surface like the Brodix. Not that they might not work or seal as well, but the Brodix are certainly a very positive sealing valve cover.
That’s interesting. I’ll have to look at the pair I have in my attic storage. I haven’t looked at them for quite a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #719
Been so cold here lately I didn't want to get out in the shop. But going stir crazy also, so I dug out my heavy insulated Carhardt coveralls and headed out anyway. I got the holes drilled in the valve covers for breather, and PCV. Of course my largest step bit was slightly small, so had to finish the holes with a half round file. Then put on new gaskets, checked the valve lash once more, and installed them.
My battery disconnect switch went bad a couple weeks ago, and I moved the two cables to one terminal to temporarily fix it. So replaced that today also.
Then I went back to the patch panels I welded in the front bumper bracket cutouts in my fenders. I did them a week ago, and smeared a little Duraglass over them at the time. So hit them with the flapper disc to knock off the high spots, and will have to do a skim coat later. Need to set up the heater first as it's 38 degrees in there, and filler wont set up.
Fired the car up to let it get warmed up, and put my battery tender on the battery. Only a few hours work today.
 

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After installing the longer shackles the other day, I noticed my shocks were actually almost topped out. Didn't want rebound to damage them internally, so I planned to raise the lower mounting points on the axle end. Got to looking at my brackets I built and discovered I could get about 1.5" extra by flipping them side to side, which turned them upside down also. Just a small relief cut on a non structural area allowed it to lay flat on the opposite side and gain the extra length needed.
My new trans dipstick tube came to eliminate the ugly van dipstick tube I had. So installed that also. Easy to install, but wrestling the old one out was a chore.



 
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