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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I asked this question yesterday but no response So I still need help
I have a 2017 5.3 L83 engine I need to know what trans can I use with this engine
Or will any LS trans work?
thanks Danny P
 

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Moved this to the LS section to get more traffic.

The 5.3L L83 is a Gen V V8. It can be used with the 4l60 and 6L80. You can also use the new 8L90 and 10L trans.

What car or truck is it going with. The L83 used the 6l80 stock the 8L hasn't made its way to the 5.3L trucks just yet but can still be used.

Also you will need some other things like a power steering pump and mount. And engine mounts setup for it. Couple threads in the LS section on the Search LT1 or L83/86
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
L83

Thanks that's the info I was looking for The engine is going in my 57 so I wanted to know if I hand to cut up the floor or not for the bigger trans
I would like to use a 4L60 or 65 trans
Thanks Danny P
 

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Thanks for the help Is the 4L60 strong enough for 400 hp
Thanks Danny P
Depends how heavy your foot is. The L83 is 355hp stock on 87 gas they make 320ish at the wheels. On E85 they will make 350hp at the wheels pretty easy with bolt ons. To get 400 from it at the crank you will need a cam. A stock 4L60/70 won't last long at 400hp if you keep you foot in it. Just driving it they will be fine.

GMPP makes a bellhouse adapter for the new Gen V LT based motors, as they are different than the LS, to the 4l60/70 trans. You will need a standalone controller for the trans as well. With the standalone you can use any "LS based 4l60/70. The 70 will hold little more power.
 

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I just bought one as well, and my real question is how much modification needs to be done if I decide to use 6l80e? I heard that the 4l60's will not hold up very well with the LT L83. I would like to use mine since my engine set only has 980 miles on both unit.
 

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The trans tunnel needs cut and rasied toward the back.. There are a couple threads on this in the trans section. Unless your going to keep you for in it or racing it. Hearing and knowing are two different things. The 4L60/70 is fine even stock provided your just crusing it. If you have a heavy foot then upgrade it. But if using the 6L you need to mod tunnel. The issue will then move to rear diff you will need it upgraded ovr stock. Also watch the rear ratio to low and first gear with a 6L is worth less. Keep it 3.50 to 3.08.
 

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350 at the wheels is about 400 at the flywheel. give or take a couple.
 

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I just bought one as well, and my real question is how much modification needs to be done if I decide to use 6l80e? I heard that the 4l60's will not hold up very well with the LT L83. I would like to use mine since my engine set only has 980 miles on both unit.
Not much, about 0.5"-0.75" at the end of the tunnel nearest the seat. The size of the panel makes it look worse that what it is, it was just easier to cut a decent size section out. You can see height increase at the right hand side of the photo, center of the panel (where the 4 welds are)

6L80E Tunnel.jpg

This will keep the transmission pan level with the bottom of the chassis rails.

6L80E Pan.jpg

If it is a car 6L80E, they don't have a slip yoke so you will need one of these: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3868-3-bolt-adapter-flange-yoke

and a slip joint in the driveshaft.

Spil yoke.jpg

The standard shifter can be used.
 

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The L83 is rated 355hp at the crank. But will make 375ish at wheels on good gas tune or E85 pretty easily.
I have found that the gm ratings are conservative and when you put a good tune in you can get some serious hp increase with nothing more than headers and a 4" intake tube. 400 flywheel hp is readily available
 

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I have found that the gm ratings are conservative and when you put a good tune in you can get some serious hp increase with nothing more than headers and a 4" intake tube. 400 flywheel hp is readily available
The Gen V's are way better. The direct injection makes getting more power even easier as you can control fuel timing. It will make rated 355 HP on 87 gas.
 

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Not much, about 0.5"-0.75" at the end of the tunnel nearest the seat. The size of the panel makes it look worse that what it is, it was just easier to cut a decent size section out. You can see height increase at the right hand side of the photo, center of the panel (where the 4 welds are)

View attachment 158240

This will keep the transmission pan level with the bottom of the chassis rails.

View attachment 158241

If it is a car 6L80E, they don't have a slip yoke so you will need one of these: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3868-3-bolt-adapter-flange-yoke

and a slip joint in the driveshaft.

View attachment 158242

The standard shifter can be used.
Do you have any pictures of the crank pulley in relation to the front crossmember and the stock steering linkage. I'm trying to figure out where to place mine and i want to see someone's who's already been there.
 

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GMPP has a "hopped up" version of the 4L60E series, called a 75.
We put one behind a 525 crate, with a Maggie on it, at 7psi... Still going strong.
And yes, 7 psi makes the 62 Stude a handful at WFO!
It would need a Gen V bellhouse, which gmpp sells for the 4L60’s If using it behind a Gen V. Also will need a standalone controller. For the price the gmpp one its not bad vs building a a 60 to same specs from an aftermarket builders are around same cost.
 

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or run a holley controller to control both engine and trans.
 
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There's absolutely no reason you can't get a 4L60E to handle well over even 600 HP. There are guys running 9's with them. A 400HP 5.3 V8 and a mildly modified 4L60E would likely be just fine...it's not like you're building a dragstrip monster. Any reputable transmission shop should be able to handle that with ease.

I think I'd rather go that route than deal with cutting the trans tunnel for a 4L80E.
 
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