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I'm still going to find a way to fix my 2GC to get my car back on the road as it's my only car in CA right now. Might weld/braze up and re-tap the bolt holes, and I'm not going to lie I've considered using sealant on the top gasket just to get the car running. Not really looking to burn the thing down though.

The options as I see it are:

1) Another 2GC core for ~$100, hope it's in better shape, get another rebuild kit from a better vendor, and try again (probably the sensible move).
2) A rebuilt 2GC, presumably with no leaks, for ~$500, but I can't seem to find one actually in stock anywhere.
3) A correct factory 4 barrel manifold, 4GC, 4bbl air cleaner like someone here recently did (can't find the thread at the moment). I really like the idea of the original look, but not sure I want to take the time to track down every little piece, and it makes less sense with the later 283 in there.
4) This is probably what most here would do, get an aftermarket aluminum manifold (~$300), a new 4 barrel carb (~$500) and some aftermarket 4bbl air cleaner. This is probably the next most sensible move, so of course also not the one I picked. The thought of messing with jets and power valves and rods, and potentially having to tinker with it when I commute between here at 60 feet elevation to my other home at 3600 feet, that's not my kind of fun for a car that's supposed to be a driver.

5) The most complicated and expensive route to get my 'totally not a project car daily driver' on the road again is to switch to fuel injection, so of course that's the one I picked. I think it's the best technical solution for a daily driver.

With that decided, the challenge is I want to retain as much of an original/vintage look as practical (period look, not nuts and bolts correct, obviously). I don't have any aftermarket chrome or billet on the car now and I'm not looking to change that. Modern port fuel injection is superior, but it's not the look I'm going for, so that leaves TBI.
A simple and common repair on that carb and its stripped screws is to go up to the next size of screw, there is room to increase the hole and tap for it. should cost you practically nothing, hell I would even send you a tap if you don't own one and you can send it back when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I am going to the edlbrock manifold (modified) and edelbrock carb 600 4 barrel.Keep up the thread on the tbi--baylor
My buddy here has a spare 600 kicking around, but I figured it was too big for my stock '67 283. If I went the carb route, I was going to go for the 500cfm Edelbrock AVS2 or the 390/450/470 Holley. Vacuum secondaries and electric choke of course for a stock street engine.

A simple and common repair on that carb and its stripped screws is to go up to the next size of screw, there is room to increase the hole and tap for it. should cost you practically nothing, hell I would even send you a tap if you don't own one and you can send it back when you are done.
Appreciate the advice, good to hear that's a common problem and repair that works. I do have taps, I just didn't think the meat was there for it. If I'm drilling it out, should I just helicoil them, or would that involve drilling them larger than just tapping for the next size up (#12 I guess?). My next best idea was tearing the casting down again, filling the holes with aluminum brazing rod, then drilling and tapping.

I was also having an issue with the float I think despite spending an hour with the instructions and little ruler making sure it was just so. The float appeared to be stock, did not have any fluid inside, and I actually had to adjust the drop setting a couple 32nds higher than the spec as if it dropped too low, the needle valve would come out too far and tip sideways, blocking it open. The closed setting (float inverted) was dead on spec.

I pre-filled the bowl using a gear oil bottle (works great), but the first start resulted in a geyser of fuel, so I'm thinking the float must have failed to close. Pulling the airhorn on the car didn't reveal any problem with the float/needle. The next start didn't have the problem, but was pouring out between the body and airhorn so not sure whether that was just the stripped screws, or if I'm still fighting a float issue. Tempted to go off-script and start tweaking the float level 1/16" - 1/8" lower and see what happens (in addition to fixing the body of course).
 

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Carson...........Robert...........I hope both of you will either be at Del Mar or Western Invasion (or both). You are both daring, knowledgeable guys that I'd sure like to meet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Carson...........Robert...........I hope both of you will either be at Del Mar or Western Invasion (or both). You are both daring, knowledgeable guys that I'd sure like to meet.
I don't know about knowledgeable, sometimes I like to think so, but other times something simple like a 2 barrel carb fights me to the point of frustration. I'm just persistent, like driving old junk, and hate having other people work on my junk so here I am.
 

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I am going to the edlbrock manifold (modified) and edelbrock carb 600 4 barrel.Keep up the thread on the tbi--baylor
 

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Carson...........Robert...........I hope both of you will either be at Del Mar or Western Invasion (or both). You are both daring, knowledgeable guys that I'd sure like to meet.
yep I'll be there. Buy ya a beverage too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
A simple and common repair on that carb and its stripped screws is to go up to the next size of screw, there is room to increase the hole and tap for it. should cost you practically nothing, hell I would even send you a tap if you don't own one and you can send it back when you are done.
You might get a laugh out of this.

It turns out your idea to thread it for one size bigger was better than my idea to use low-temp aluminum brazing rod and redo it in the correct size. I've had great luck with this technique in the past, but apparently whatever alloy a '55 Chevy carb body is made from melts at a slightly lower temp than my 'low temp' rod (meant to melt much cooler than aluminum). Good to know.

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Oh well, eBay to the rescue. Found a '58 carb body. Looks the same to me, I'll move my jets over of course and rebuild the carb again, and hopefully it's good enough to get me to the grocery store and back while I wait for all the fuel injection stuff. I've already bought it, but if anyone sees a problem with using a '58 carb body with my existing (1955?) carb shown above, I'd love to know now.

I'll try a Mikes Carburetor Parts kit this time maybe, another member here had good results IIRC and I wasn't thrilled with the Quadrajetparts.com one. The fresh rebuilt 2GC will hopefully be worth roughly what I'm throwing away on the new body and kit when I take it off again in a few weeks hopefully to install the fuel injection.

I could probably get away with reusing my fresh gaskets and parts off this one, but what's another $50 at this point to do it right. Will feel better passing it on to the next tri-five guy if it's redone properly with quality parts and not slapped together with lightly used gaskets and hope.
 

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Dont mess around with the kit. If you want a good one from someone who actually knows what they are doing with these old carbs, try contacting Jon at the carb shop. He does not rebuild any longer but sells the best rebuild kits on the market.

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Is there something wrong with the Mikes Carburetor Parts kit? I wasn't trying to cheap out, I was under the impression it's a good quality kit.
 

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dont think so but Jon over at the carburetor shop is pretty sharp and has been at this a very long time. His kits are complete and first rate. I have never purchased kits for old carbs from mikes but I have from Jon and just have not had any issues with his kits. Thought you might have the same experience. Also, for anyone who is interestd, Jon is one of the most knowageable people when it comes to Carter carbs. In fact, he owns some of the factory equipment, literature and parts and makes some parts that are just impossible to find..
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I always appreciate the leads, and I'm sure other folks reading later do as well. That's where I get a lot of my info, searching old posts here.

I'm sure he's awesome at carbs, but unfortunately his website and order process made me not give him a second look when I first saw his page.
 

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He is old school, lol. He posts pretty frequently, maybe even daily, over at stovebolt.com
 
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