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You have a couple of options full floor, front & rear pans, seperate inner & outer rockers, as well as under floor braces.

If your trunk, tail pan are in good condition then you may want to look at front half.

I would consider a floor with floor braces :anim_25:
 

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You have a couple of options full floor, front & rear pans, seperate inner & outer rockers, as well as under floor braces.

If your trunk, tail pan are in good condition then you may want to look at front half.

I would consider a floor with floor braces :anim_25:
Agreed, the one piece floor ......
 

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It depends on alot of things. Your skill level, the tools you have, how much help you can get, and the area you have to work in.

The full floors are nice and, if your floor braces are bad too, probably cheaper in the long run.

But its a hell of a lotta work and you need to lift the body off the frame. remove a zillion spot rivets and keep everything square.

On top of that you will have a long down time, whereas the pans you can do one at a time, and still drive the car. To be fair, there is probably more welding doing the individual pans than the entire floor, and the full floor comes out nicer.

So as nice as it is to give advise, It all depends on how you are set up.
 

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I agree if you have the facility and time ,I just spent a fortune of three pans, three or four braces. Get the full floor. When the floor is so rusty the metal is so thin there is nothing to weld to, just burn right through it. If you overlap it later on you'll have rust in overlaps.the full pan only way to go.Here's another tip, don't hire a senior citizen and pay him by the hour lol
 

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It depends on alot of things. Your skill level, the tools you have, how much help you can get, and the area you have to work in.

The full floors are nice and, if your floor braces are bad too, probably cheaper in the long run.

But its a hell of a lotta work and you need to lift the body off the frame. remove a zillion spot rivets and keep everything square.

On top of that you will have a long down time, whereas the pans you can do one at a time, and still drive the car. To be fair, there is probably more welding doing the individual pans than the entire floor, and the full floor comes out nicer.

So as nice as it is to give advise, It all depends on how you are set up.
You are absolutely right Gary.......I toyed with the same situation a year ago, weighing out whether to replace the whole floor, or get the components.
You are right about removing all kinds of spot welds...takes a long time, and about removing the car off the frame.
Fortunately I was able to do just that, and I'm glad we did the entire floor, even had a plasma cutter at my disposal so it made life easy removing the old floor, leaving only a two inch strip to deal with for the spot welds. But there's no way I could have put that in without the hoist, and all the tools available to me for that job.
I did go with the floor that had the inner rockers attached....fit like a glove (for a change!) with no issues.

Eugene
 

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Full floors are great--if you are doing a frame off and if the car is a hard top with no post. The guy I bought my floors from asked me how I planned to get the whole floor in the car ..wont fit through door opening on a post car..Bought the set up where I had to weld a seam down the middle.fit good and not that much more welding. Just my 2 cents....:anim_25:
 
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