[inis]

Hey guys, yesterday I took my 55' for another long trip. But this time I experienced a weird problem.

I went from kansas city to branson, but when I got into the hilly/mountain area of the ozarks going up hill I would stutter, like HUGE no fuel issue.

It did this after about 10 mins into the huge hills/mountains of the ozarks, and through main street of branson (to silver dollar city) , back out of silver dollar city...cleared up for a bit then started doing it again on extreme inclines.

Tank was *** near 100% full the entire time. Once leveled out again it was fine. But it worried me alot, into branson on the last major incline I nearly had no power. I dont have flashers, so its a major concern for me.

Up til the stuttering I had full power, could even gain speed up the mountains.

I'm thinking the bowls are filling or fuel pump related? My car is very orginal, but does have a 57 283 4 barrel, completely stock with exception of the exhaust and the replacement coil I had to do two months ago (stocker was over heating, so I replaced it with a msd i had around and redid the wires)

If it started stutter, I could press in the clutch and idle just fine...didn't dip down or anything.

This is my first carb'd vehicle, so I'm not very knowledgable on how they act normally. But this stinks a big one.

I'm tempted to replace the fuel pump and buy a rebuild kit for the carb..and go get dyno tuned. Then call it done, but I'm not 100% sure this will cure my issue.

Thanks for anyone that can give me some feed back.

All in all, for a 6 1/2 hr drive on a 56 yr old vehicle thats *** near orginal, it did wonderful. Couldn't of asked for a better drive.

Btw I'll post some pics later on, I have some very nice looking photo's of it.

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

Inis.....Two things come to mind with your description of the problem....Have you checked to see that the accelerator pump in the carb is working properly?.....Also, there may be the possibility that the float level may be set a tad low.

 

[Rick_L]

I'd say it's a low float level.

And it's not normal.

It's not an accelerator pump issue unless it's there anytime you open the throttle.

 

[inis]

Not that by any means is this car fast, but in the past if I've launched in first gear. I can only get about 1/2 to 3/4 through the gear before I bog out. I always thought it was just an old carb issue.

I'll find a diagram of the carb and look into it this thur or fri.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[inis]

Heres some of the few pics that I could get of the car, only me and my mom went. Trip was intended for my sisters bday, but she backed out. Mom lives alone..so I gave her some attention. I wanted to take more pics, but she kept telling me to stop haha.

me:

Mom:

All you can eat frog legs -gross

Getting gas on the way back:

 

[Rick_L]

Pretty cool, I hope your mom enjoyed the trip and the car.

Based on your comments, I still think you have a low float level. I'd be rebuilding the carb and setting everything per the rebuild instructions. I suppose the fuel pump could be weak too but usually a fuel pump is either OK or the engine won't run or barely runs.

 

[Tinbender]

Before you spend money rebuilding the carb, check both pressure and volume on the fuel pump. I chased a similar problem and spent much unnecessary bucks only to find out I had a weak fuel pump. Checking the pump is free.

Nice ride

Bob

 

[angs1957]

The float level would seem the likely problem, but I read another thread and they were talking about the coil under load giving the same systems?

 

[inis]

Before you spend money rebuilding the carb, check both pressure and volume on the fuel pump. I chased a similar problem and spent much unnecessary bucks only to find out I had a weak fuel pump. Checking the pump is free.

Nice ride

Bob

thanks appreciate the feedback, have a link or instructions?

The float level would seem the likely problem, but I read another thread and they were talking about the coil under load giving the same systems?

Coil is new, its a msd blaster 2 unit. The stocker I noticed was getting extremely hot -along with the wires to it. So I replaced it with this one, I had laying around along with putting in a larger 12v wire, with new ends. I also checked all the ends or redid the remaining ends for the grounds.

Although I know all of that is fine, the distributor is a entire different story. Its still on adjustable points. I've read about how to go through it for maintance, but never have. A buddy of mine said it was no fun and to just leave it alone til you have a serious issue. I'm wanting to stay stock as much as possible, but if it means going to a modern rotor/rotor cap. I might consider it, I was losing power big time. I had lost enough we're I would of eventaully been doing 10mph chugging up the hill. Not a good thing when there is little to no side lane and also I dont have hazards.

 

[G.R.]

Inis you can keep the stock distributor, cap and rotor and install a PerTronix module to replace the points...it uses a solid state ignition and will work with your coil...a lot of collector car guys use this system on their cars to gain the reliabilty of a modern ignition yet retain stock appearance. Just an idea

 

[55 copper]

You'll get the same condition going up a steep hill if the floats are set to high. Car running remove the side (two) screws (inspection holes) if gas poor's out float are to high or if you dont see gas there to low.
It should just be at the bottom holes.:wink:
Coil being hot is normal ! the oil inside can take the heat.!