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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally decided to pull the tired 327/TH400 out of my 2dr Belair HT and build the 7000 rpm 327 this car deserves. I'm also converting to aMuncie M-20 4spd. I'm including some photos of the engine coming out, the new engine going together and the fully assembled 327 going back in.
 

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Great looking engine. I built a strong 327 in a 1970 Nova I had back in the 70's It ran great.

My brother had a 68 GTO wanted to do a drag race, so on an old country back road we started side by side and my 327 eat that gto for lunch.

Funny thing he claimed that his back barrels on his carb did not kick in, but he wanted to drive my car home. I tested the gto and it all worked fine, just wasn't a match for my 327.

Otis:bowtier:
 

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Blackbelair nice build love the 327, one thing to think about at 7000 rpm is a good flywheel and blow proof bell housing. Just cheep insurance. Ron
 

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I finally decided to pull the tired 327/TH400 out of my 2dr Belair HT and build the 7000 rpm 327 this car deserves. I'm also converting to aMuncie M-20 4spd. I'm including some photos of the engine coming out, the new engine going together and the fully assembled 327 going back in.
I love the 327,I had one in a 57 back in 1964,340 HP bought a new block and heads from chevy for under $400.00 my favorite engine.GOOD LUCK RICH
 

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Looks GREAT

Looks great but I too would agree about using a scattershield before you attempt any 7000 RPM shifts. Ever see what happens when a flywheel goes thru the dash and window. I have. Not pretty.:anim_25:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
More Engine Info

Here's some information on this engine build:

The block is .030 over, decked, crank and cam line honed. Stock 327 forged crank. Crower 6.0" I-Beam rods with full floating piston pins. Forged Keith Black pistons. Trick Flow 23 degree heads with 175cc runners, 56cc chambers, 1.94 valves, 7/16 screw in studs with LS-1 "beehive" valve springs and roller rockers. Compression ratio will be about 10.7:1 Isky 270 Cam. Rotating parts have all been balanced.

The flywheel is a new and inspected 10.5" GM high performance nodular iron unit and clutch is Centerforce II. The clutch and flywheel have been balanced as a set. I appreciate the comments about exploding clutches which is why I've taken care in using high quality components and had them balanced. Believe me, I don't want this thing coming apart at 7000 rpm! I decided not to go with the scattershield as I like the stock bell housing combination with the Muncie 4spd. I don't plan to be doing high rpm power shifts but understand there is always some risk of a clutch or flywheel failure.
 

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That's a great build, good choices, especially with the Trick Flow heads. So I have to ask - why the 270 cam when you are building for a high RPM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cam Answer

Good question on the cam. My machinist recommended the Isky 270 after analyzing all of the components together. He builds a lot of engines including circle track race engines and has the benefit of a large data base of what's worked well. Small displacement engines have a tendency to get over cammed as they're especially sensitive to too much duration. I wanted to maintain an effective compression ratio of about 8:1. Even starting with a static compression ratio of 10.7:1, it goes away quickly with added cam duration. Just to be sure, we called his contact at Isky and went over my build with him; Isky also recommended the 270.

I know the early 327's running the 30-30 cam had a ton of duration and really rev'd well. But, these guys I'm getting advice from insist I can still get 7000 rpm and have decent midrange power as well. The truth will come with how well this thing actually runs. I should know in about a week.
 
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