The second ground up restoration of the year is well underway, so I thought it would be a good time to share some pics.
This car is a factory Turquoise/Indian Ivory convertible that will be anything but factory when we get done with it. When we got the car it had already had most of the sheet metal repair work completed by a very talented local body man. I would say 80 percent of the body is new metal. here is how the car looked when it arrived at the shop.
We knew the car was going custom and the drivetrain would be updated to LS power so we started with installing one of our 4" recessed firewalls.
I decided cut down and box in the factory firewall supports for a smoother look.
The LS2 engine and 4L60E transmission was purchased from a low mileage wrecked GTO. It seems that the transmission had just been replaced under warranty.
We debated about upgrading the stock chassis with suspension, brakes and steering, but ultimately decided to get the look and performance we wanted, we would have to go aftermarket. I looked at several companies, but ended up going with a Fatman Fab chassis with full polished stainless suspension. Brent gave me a great deal and those guys were good to work with. We ordered the chassis without front spindles or brakes because we are a Wilwood dealer and I wanted to use the Wilwood Pro spindles for the increased height and camber gain as well as the numerous brake options. The rear end is a 9" with 3.50 gears and Positrac. I ordered the rear narrower than the standard width to accomodate a deeper wheel. For Wilwood brakes we went with massive 14" front rotors with polished 6 piston calipers. In the rear we went with 13" with polished Wilwood SL4R 4 piston calipers that match the front. The LS engine is generally moved foward to accomdate a stock firewall, but we ordered the chassis with the motor moved back 1" to make use of the extra room the recessed firewall gave us.
These are not the wheels we are going to run. I just used them to roll the chassis arround.
Here is the stock chassis. The car owners have the good stock convertible chassis, with rebuilt stock engine, powerglide, front suspension, and rear end for sale if anyone is interested just send me a PM and I'll put you in touch with them.
We bought a stainless tank by Rick's Tanks from a board member. I fabbed up some mounting tabs and after carefully measuring the body located the tank in the frame.
Since the car is going back turquois and Indian Ivory, we decided to have the chassis powdercoated to match. The good folks at http://livcoat.com/ did a phenomenal job for us and were very nice to work with. Here is Larry Prepping the frame and dressing some welds before powder coating.
Here are a few shots of the Wilwood brakes and suspension with QA1 coilovers.
We ran all stainless brake and fuel lines. The hardlines were ran on top of the frame for a cleaner look when the body is installed. All unions or fittings were located off the side so they would still be accessable after the body is installed.
For wheels we went with SCHOTT Mod 5 18"x8" and 18"x10" wheels and BFGoodrich KDW tires that we ordered from Newstalgia wheel. The guys at Newstalgia are great to work with.
I love the craftsmanship on the Schott wheels and the way the center cap covers the lugs. Even the tool used to remove the center cap is a work of art. The machine work is so nice that the parting line between the wheel and the cap is almost invisible.
Absoutely georgous. If I saw this going down the street would go around the block however many times it took just to get a look at it Money makes it happen and you certainly are doing an excellent job. :congrats: Lloyd
Thanks guys for all the compliments.
As far as running the lines on top of the frame, I don't remember the exact measurement, but we had plenty of clearance and I also measured a car with 55 year old original bushings and determined that the only way these lines are going to get pinched is if all the bushings fall out. Also keep in mind that a convertible mounts more solidly to the frame than a hardtop due to two extra bushing locations and no bushings on the bottom of the frame.
T-Bolt, I'm glad you asked about the coil mounting. With some help from my buddy Corey at www.divmechdes.com we came up with some really trick little coil relocation brackets. They mount two coils to a bracket and put the coils together about as compact as possible. We're thinking about mounting them down on the sides of the frame rails. We'll probably start producing these for sale in the near future in packs of 4 for eight coils.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could
be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Chevy Tri Five Forum
A forum community dedicated to 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevy owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, engine swaps, reviews, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Open to all models including Belair, 210, 150, Sedans, and Nomads.