[tibalda]

I was hoping to get a recommendation for a replacement eyebrow patch for a 55 2dr HT. I just watched a video where the difference in quality was clearly demonstrated. This is my first attempt at patching on the car and I am looking for all the help I can get. My backup plan if I screw it up is replacing the whole fender.

Thanks,
Art

 

[rbrewer]

btt

 

[twin engines]

https://realdealsteel.com/i-23901872-1955-chevy-left-or-right-inner-headlight-cap-repair-panel.html

https://realdealsteel.com/i-23901505-1955-chevy-right-headlight-cap-repair-panel.html

I usually buy from them...

 

[chevyman57]

I was hoping to get a recommendation for a replacement eyebrow patch for a 55 2dr HT. I just watched a video where the difference in quality was clearly demonstrated. This is my first attempt at patching on the car and I am looking for all the help I can get. My backup plan if I screw it up is replacing the whole fender.

Thanks,
Art

If its any help I have a NOS 1955 drivers side fender excellent shape GM made
Larry chevyman57

 

[Pack_Rat]

I've done the fender caps on several fenders (55's)
The first ones I did, I found the patch panels to be pretty accurate.
The last few I've done had the bottom of the brow bulged out.
You can see it on the right side in this picture. I wound up cutting a slit in the middle front of the bulge, forming it to where I wanted it, and welding it up.
It turned out alright, but a little extra work involved . If your fenders aren't too badly rusted you could cut the bulge off. Or if you can have a look at the caps before you buy maybe you can find a good one.

 

[tibalda]

If its any help I have a NOS 1955 drivers side fender excellent shape GM made
Larry chevyman57

Thanks. The rest of my fender looks to be in good shape so I am going to give the patch a try but I might come back to you if I screw it up and it's not too late. I am actually looking forward to the challenge.

 

[tibalda]

https://realdealsteel.com/i-23901872-1955-chevy-left-or-right-inner-headlight-cap-repair-panel.html

https://realdealsteel.com/i-23901505-1955-chevy-right-headlight-cap-repair-panel.html

I usually buy from them...

Thanks for sending. I happen to notice that you can see a low spot in the picture (see attached) - is that an issue? I like that it states it is 18 gauge. I see H&H Classics states their part is made in the US. Does that matter? Last question is when you replace them am I correct that you need to separate the upper patch panel from an inner skin by drilling out spot welds? I have looked for YouTubes on the subject but haven't found one that shows the complete details. As a complete novice I appreciate your help.
Art

 

[tibalda]

btt

Forgive my ignorance - but I don't know what btt is. Can you explain? Thanks.

 

[Pack_Rat]

Forgive my ignorance - but I don't know what btt is. Can you explain? Thanks.

btt stands for "back to top" . He's just bumping your post to the top of new posts so it will attract more attention.

 

[tibalda]

btt stands for "back to top" . He's just bumping your post to the top of new posts so it will attract more attention.

Thanks for the info. I learned something new.

 

[Pack_Rat]

Thanks for sending. I happen to notice that you can see a low spot in the picture (see attached) - is that an issue? I like that it states it is 18 gauge. I see H&H Classics states their part is made in the US.
Does that matter? Last question is when you replace them am I correct that you need to separate the upper patch panel from an inner skin by drilling out spot welds? I have looked for YouTubes on the subject but haven't found one that shows the complete details. As a complete novice I appreciate your help.
Art

The low spot you're showing is where the fender cap is set up for a lap joint. I have always cut that section off and done a butt weld.
Have a look at the inside of your fender to see how far the rust goes. In any of my body work I use as little of the patch panels as I can.

In my experience I have always had to replace both parts that twin engines linked to, but if the upper part of the mount for the headlight bucket is solid you can drill out the spot welds where the brow attaches.

I usually trim the patch panel down as shown in the fourth pic so the weld line on both sides curves up and over. If you have to change the bucket mount, cut the old one out, mount the bucket to the two holes in the fender and attach the new upper mount to the upper two holes in the bucket. This aligns it correctly and you can weld the two lower bits to the fender on the inside.

You'll need to use the headlight trim to check the fit to the cap.

 

[tibalda]

The low spot you're showing is where the fender cap is set up for a lap joint. I have always cut that section off and done a butt weld.
Have a look at the inside of your fender to see how far the rust goes. In any of my body work I use as little of the patch panels as I can.

In my experience I have always had to replace both parts that twin engines linked to, but if the upper part of the mount for the headlight bucket is solid you can drill out the spot welds where the brow attaches.

I usually trim the patch panel down as shown in the fourth pic so the weld line on both sides curves up and over. If you have to change the bucket mount, cut the old one out, mount the bucket to the two holes in the fender and attach the new upper mount to the upper two holes in the bucket. This aligns it correctly and you can weld the two lower bits to the fender on the inside.

You'll need to use the headlight trim to check the fit to the cap.


View attachment 385836 View attachment 385837 View attachment 385838 View attachment 385839 View attachment 385841

Very helpful - thanks. Should I just remove the fender to do the work? I have seen examples both with the fender on and off the car. I don't want to do unnecessary work - but I especially don't want to shortcut the job. As a novice I will have enough trouble getting it right.
Art

 

[Pack_Rat]

Very helpful - thanks. Should I just remove the fender to do the work? I have seen examples both with the fender on and off the car. I don't want to do unnecessary work - but I especially don't want to shortcut the job. As a novice I will have enough trouble getting it right.
Art

All the fenders I have capped have been off the car but I don't see why you couldn't do it on the car.
If you are welding on the inside for the bucket mount you could remove the wheel.
Protect the rest of the car from weld and grinding spatter of course.

 

[tibalda]

I inspected the rust on my eyebrow and it is contained to a small area on the edge. The underside of the fender seems to have a good layer of undercoating but I guess they missed the inner edge. I have seen recommendations to use the smallest piece necessary. In this case should I just cut off the lap joint piece off the replacement and butt weld it or should I cut it even smaller to just take care of the rusted section? Pictures attached.

Thanks,
Art

 

[Pack_Rat]

If it was me I would be sanding to bare metal along the brow and back a couple of inches. You need clean bare metal to weld to anyway so you might as well sand it back before you start cutting up your patch panel. I would also remove the undercoating from the first few inches of the underside.
You don't really know how much rust you have until you have bare metal showing on both sides. You may even run into hidden previous repairs when you sand the paint off.
The undercoat can hide rust where water has gotten underneath.

It's probably not what you want to hear but you don't want to cut a small piece off your patch panel and then find you need a bigger section\.

 

[tibalda]

If it was me I would be sanding to bare metal along the brow and back a couple of inches. You need clean bare metal to weld to anyway so you might as well sand it back before you start cutting up your patch panel. I would also remove the undercoating from the first few inches of the underside.
You don't really know how much rust you have until you have bare metal showing on both sides. You may even run into hidden previous repairs when you sand the paint off.
The undercoat can hide rust where water has gotten underneath.

It's probably not what you want to hear but you don't want to cut a small piece off your patch panel and then find you need a bigger section\.

I appreciate the advice. I am happy to hear whatever it takes to do a good job even if it takes more work. I think this forum is great as it seems no matter the question on a trifive there are people willing to help by sharing their experience.
Thanks,
Art

 

[tjsdelivery]

I had similar, but I made my own patches. If it were the whole front curvature needing replacement, that is a bit harder to form.

 

[tibalda]

I had similar, but I made my own patches. If it were the whole front curvature needing replacement, that is a bit harder to form.

I ended up ordering the patch panel Twin Engines suggested. To practice metal working I tried to make a bird sculpture out of a copper sheet. I failed miserably so I am sure I am better off buying the eyebrow 😁.
Thanks.

 

[tibalda]

The low spot you're showing is where the fender cap is set up for a lap joint. I have always cut that section off and done a butt weld.
Have a look at the inside of your fender to see how far the rust goes. In any of my body work I use as little of the patch panels as I can.

In my experience I have always had to replace both parts that twin engines linked to, but if the upper part of the mount for the headlight bucket is solid you can drill out the spot welds where the brow attaches.

I usually trim the patch panel down as shown in the fourth pic so the weld line on both sides curves up and over. If you have to change the bucket mount, cut the old one out, mount the bucket to the two holes in the fender and attach the new upper mount to the upper two holes in the bucket. This aligns it correctly and you can weld the two lower bits to the fender on the inside.

You'll need to use the headlight trim to check the fit to the cap.


View attachment 385837 View attachment 385836 View attachment 385838 View attachment 385839 View attachment 385841

Your post has really helped me get a better idea of trimming the replacement part. I just got the patch eyebrow and didn't like the way the whole piece fit. Seeing how you trrimmed yours makes sense to me on getting a good fit. I am also noticing the bottom of the new piece is a bit wide so I will need to push the ends together and your technique of trimming will definitely make that a bit easier.

The other thing I was thinking about was whether to take the fender off or not. I am not sure how much trouble taking it off will be but I see an advantage of removing the fender with cleaning the underside and also checking that my welds are getting good penetration as well as your point of welding the inside of the fender when I get the fit right.

Thanks,
Art

 

[Budsin's mad mechanic]

Your post has really helped me get a better idea of trimming the replacement part. I just got the patch eyebrow and didn't like the way the whole piece fit. Seeing how you trrimmed yours makes sense to me on getting a good fit. I am also noticing the bottom of the new piece is a bit wide so I will need to push the ends together and your technique of trimming will definitely make that a bit easier.

The other thing I was thinking about was whether to take the fender off or not. I am not sure how much trouble taking it off will be but I see an advantage of removing the fender with cleaning the underside and also checking that my welds are getting good penetration as well as your point of welding the inside of the fender when I get the fit right.

Thanks,
Art

One thing about leaving the fender on the car is the car will hold it really solidly while working on it,but there is the increased difficulty working on the inside