In other words, with the help of a friend (very important):
1. Remove bumper and brackets.
2. Remove hood from hinges. Mark location of hinges with pencil before removing bolts.
3. Remove all hoses, wires, etc. attached to front clip. Label as required.
4. Remove 2 large bolts at top of fenders near door. Mark bolt location with pencil before removing bolts. Keep track of shims for each side.
5. Remove 2 large bolts at bottom of fenders near door. Keep track of shims for each side. Remove rocker moulding if so equipped.
6. Remove 2 nuts at bottom center of radiator support, then remove bolts. Keep track of shims.
7. Grab at center of fender well and headlight on each side. Remove headlights (or headlight bezels) if you can't grip it well.
8. Lift, walk forward, set down.
I suggest you put masking tape on the edge of each painted surface to avoid chipping the paint if the parts bump while removing them.
I believe you are also going to find two brackets from the inner fender well to the firewall supports, inner fender well to firewall in other words. Also, the inner fender extension to the frame there is a small bolt each side.
Definitely use tape, don't be cheap on that.
I also found that if you drill a small hole through the hinge and into the firewall on each side, one that you have a small phillip's screw driver to fit into, when you reinstall the hood, you just put the phillip's screwdriver into the holes and bolt the hinge up again. It acts like an alignment pin on each side so you don't have to start at square 1 again. I like taking the hinges loose at the firewall and leaving them on the hood. One, it gives something for the hood to rest on and two, it seems easier to get bolts going again straight in as opposed to somewhat hanging upside down.
When you lift, 3 people are good. Pull the fender out a little on each side by the doors to clear the bottom fender extension bracket. If the radiator is still in, be ready for the front end to dip down. If you are holding in the center of the fender wells only, it is not going to be balanced. The third guy can hold up on the center front. I just did this whole thing on my 56....
Since I don't bend very well anymore, Ive pulled alot of them over the years. I will probably pull the front clip off to install air conditoning on my 55 next week. For something like that, I don't even bother to take the hood off.
The front bumper is probably the hardest part to get off. Lots of liquid wrench and a good impact wrench.
If you have a lot of rust to deal with it might be easier to torch them off and install new bolts later.
I generally disconnect the wiring and roll it up on a 55, The 56 has a firewall connector that you can disconnect. I have seen some people that cut the wires just beyond the firewall and install a gang connector like GM did later, but that is up to you.
Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses. Follow the directions of stovebolt. Three people is best, Especially if the radiator is attached.
If you do leave the hood on....just wrap and tape towels around the rear corners to protect the fenders. If you aren't doing anything with the firewall, like painting, just leave the hood on like pistoncan said. It is not too hard to clear the hood.
But, if you're pulling the engine (which I think is why you're asking the question) by all means remove the hood.
A few months back, I looked at a very nice unrestored '57 4 door. The sheet metal was very straight - except for this nasty lump right in the middle of the hood. The guy hit it with an engine hoist while installing the rebuilt engine.
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