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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is driving me mad. Car has only been back on the road since October and with the winter has probably done a couple of hundred miles at most. Engine is a '62 327 with new Edelbock RPM heads and intake with Holley 600 Vacuum secondary and manual choke. Last week I found it kept cutting out at the traffic lights or when I was trying to reverse in to the garage. Could hear the whistle of an airleak which I had fixed a few months ago. So I temporarily turned up the tickover slightly. Then I found when trying to reverse back in to the garage that it wouldn't restart at all. So had to push it back in. Had a look and noticed the glass in-line fuel filter was virtually empty.
So this weekend I installed a new chrome Holley mechanical fuel pump (80 gph), and took off the carb and plastic 1" plastic spacer, and cleaned up top of intake, spacer, and underside of carb, before installing new gaskets.
Got back in car and turned it over and it fired immediately. The fuel filter was full of fuel and the engine ran well. Didn't drive it as time was getting on. Today checked under hood, filter was still holding fuel and again it fired right up. Took car out of garage and went for a drive. Car drove fine for about 3 miles. As I pulled up at a junction to turn in to a shopping mall car park it stalled. Put it in to Park and then fired it straight up again. Went shopping for 15 minutes, came back and checked under hood. Hardly any fuel showing in glass filter (half a tank in fuel tank). Turned tickover right up and headed for home. Everytime I came to traffic lights I slipped the TH-350 in to Neutral to get the revs up a bit and then to Drive as the traffic moved off. Stalled about 4 times trying to carefully reverse into the garage.
And that is how I have left it. The previous fuel pump may have been okay as the problem hasn't gone away. The fuel tank was taken out when I restored it cleaned and sealed and given a new sender unit. When I put the new pump in on Saturday I gave the fuel line to the tank from the pump a quick blast with an air line to make sure it was clear. The glass fuel filter hasn't shown any sign of contaminants coming through. I think the air leak noise may be back from the carb. Carb probably has less than 1000 miles on it and had new gaskets and a clean up when I put it back on the road.
Would an air leak from the carb/carb spacer cause this problem? I think it is a fuel, rather than an ignition problem. Distributor is a new Mallory Unilite with vacuum advance.
I'm wondering if the spacer is warped and the problem shows up once the engine is at operating temperature and things start expanding. Just don't want to start spending money on stuff that may not be faulty (like the fuel pump).:p3:
 

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First off, don't worry about how much fuel is in the clear filter. It will vary.

You are probably on the right track about a vacuum leak. I doubt if your spacer is warped but it's easy enough to check with a straight edge. More likely it's a bad gasket or a scratched surface if it's the spacer. But more likely is a hole that should be plugged and isn't, a loose bolt or fitting, or a cracked hose.
 

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Try runing with out the gas cap to be sure its not vapor locking.The gas cap must be a venting type.Then try spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb and intake manifold to see if the idle increases showing a vacume leak when warm
 

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You may not want to here this but I think your problem is the unilite distributor I have had several friends and acquaintances have problems with them . They start out like yours and later stop working altogether , the module is the problem . They make a high voltage spike eliminator for them that shows me they have a problem . Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I had a chance to check it this evening. The locking red stripe gas cap has a vent hole and I blew it through to check, so I think that is okay. The Unilite distributor has an inline Mallory voltage filter to protect it from high voltage spikes. I was checking around the engine looking for anything loose or broken and looked at the clear glass in-line fuel filter. The body seemed quite loose because I managed to undo the cartridge without using tools, although it wasn't leaking. I took it apart and gave the inside and filter a quick clean. I also added an O-ring inside as the filter didn't sit to the end very well and could be bypassed by the fuel. I then tightened it up and tried to start the car. The car fired right up and I then turned down the idle speed to a normal level. Had it running for about 20 minutes till it got nice and hot. Sprayed WD-40 around carb to spacer and intake manifold joins, Idle remained the same. Didn't have the time to go for a drive and didn't want the hassle of a possible breakdown, but so far it's looking good. Will hopefully drive it Thursday evening or if not it will be Saturday.
 
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