I was wondering if they could be crossed
Thanks Bill. The contour gauges are actually bolted together to be one longer one because I needed them for my front fender when I replaced the lower part of it.Perg,
I see you have two contour gages on the package shelf. Although you aren't there yet, I used one to make an attempt to get the profiles between the left and right sides all along the trunk/quarter intersection all the way from the "C" pillar to the rear dog legs. The restorer I was working with mentioned I can get them very close, but because of the distance between them (someone would need to walk behind the car to check the profiles out) but they would be able to tell they weren't "exact." They are close, mainly by feel and look with a little assistance from the contour gauges. I did go through a lot of body filler most of which ended up on the floor.
Most of it is now, but I have to say that some of the Taiwan made items are now equal in quality or even surpassing the US made items. Not all, but some of them. Looks great!!Time for some primer on the inner door welded new flanges and the inside of the new door skin.
Door skin says Made in the USA and I thought about everything was made in Taiwan nowadays....
Yeah it was much harder than I thought as well. Didn't exactly just fold in and everything fitted perfect.Just like the one i change skin on, folding doorskins was lots harder than i tought.
Especially when the inner structure is not the right shape.
I need to add some metal also at a few places to make the gap even.
Either I will fill with tig weld or weld some metal and grind it down if its to much.
Where its to tight i will grind off and tig weld the edge.
Its easy to adjust the edges with a rubber malet and a wide plier.
I have not done all the adjustment yet just tested at a few places.
There is a swedish group on fb called bilplåtslagare with lots of knowledge about sheet metal work, especially a guy called Bengt Erik Blad he got lots of tips and trix in he's pocket
I will remove the door and peel the skin off again. The bottom of the door should be a straight line so it should not be too difficult, but it bulges when hammered and the contour does not seem to be right so I believe the edges need to be adjusted.I feel your pain on the door skins. I had to replace both of mine as well as the inner door bottoms. They are a pain to get right. Before I installed the inners I made a couple of contour gauges and then replaced the inner before cutting the skin loose thinking that would get them right and still had issues. Keep at it you will get there.