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Discussion Starter #182
I was wondering if they could be crossed
Somehow along the road I had the same thought that maybe I put left and right torsion rod in at the wrong order, but I doubt it would matter. Anyhow will see when I get the trunk lid off.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Missing the wheel house reinforcement on top of the wheel well so I fabricated the left one and screwed it in place tempoarily.
327077
 

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Perg,
I see you have two contour gages on the package shelf. Although you aren't there yet, I used one to make an attempt to get the profiles between the left and right sides all along the trunk/quarter intersection all the way from the "C" pillar to the rear dog legs. The restorer I was working with mentioned I can get them very close, but because of the distance between them (someone would need to walk behind the car to check the profiles out) but they would be able to tell they weren't "exact." They are close, mainly by feel and look with a little assistance from the contour gauges. I did go through a lot of body filler most of which ended up on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
Perg,
I see you have two contour gages on the package shelf. Although you aren't there yet, I used one to make an attempt to get the profiles between the left and right sides all along the trunk/quarter intersection all the way from the "C" pillar to the rear dog legs. The restorer I was working with mentioned I can get them very close, but because of the distance between them (someone would need to walk behind the car to check the profiles out) but they would be able to tell they weren't "exact." They are close, mainly by feel and look with a little assistance from the contour gauges. I did go through a lot of body filler most of which ended up on the floor.
Thanks Bill. The contour gauges are actually bolted together to be one longer one because I needed them for my front fender when I replaced the lower part of it.
I plan on using them in combination with eye sighting from the rear when putting on the quarter panels. Already I have some part of the left panel pointing too much downwards so I need to correct that before welding the quarters on.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Made the right wheel well reinforcement....at least a rough piece....will weld and grind it later when fitness is tested with the quarter panel installed.


327140
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Installed the trunk hinges after the small modification I had to do to make them close fully. Will not do the spot welding of the hinges until the quarter panels are in place and aligned, but trunk seems to close nicely.
trunk open.jpg
trunk closed.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Been a while since I've posted, started a new job and that took much of my spare time.
Anyhow I have been finalizing both wheel well reinforcement patches and spot welded them in place.
Will soon install the rear quarter panels, but before that I wanted to finish the right door including a new door skin.
Sandblasting the inner part of the door revealed some pitholes and I had to cut and weld in some fresh steel.

Tried to copy the drain holes from the old pitted cut out metal to the new piece I made up.
Next up is some surface treatment of the inner door part before joining it with the new door skin.

rigth door corner.jpg
right door flange.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Time for some primer on the inner door welded new flanges and the inside of the new door skin.
Door skin says Made in the USA :) and I thought about everything was made in Taiwan nowadays....

door skin and inner with primer.jpg
 

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Time for some primer on the inner door welded new flanges and the inside of the new door skin.
Door skin says Made in the USA :) and I thought about everything was made in Taiwan nowadays....
Most of it is now, but I have to say that some of the Taiwan made items are now equal in quality or even surpassing the US made items. Not all, but some of them. Looks great!!
 
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Discussion Starter #192
Since the door skin reinforcement part was missing on my new door skin I had to fabricate a new piece for each side based on the one I removed from the old door panel.
These would definitely not be mistaken for any NOS part, but have enough rigidity for its purpose and it will be positioned inside the door out of sight so they will do.

door skin reinforcement left and right.jpg And the right door part welded in place.

door skin reinforcement spot welded.jpg
 

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I definately wouldn't want to go to the trouble of replacing the skin without having that reinforcement there. What you fabbed looks sturdy enough - good job! Do make sure a handle will fit it correctly before you go much further. Easy to fine tune if you can get to both sides of it.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Installed the door panel and put the door on the car. A bit too hasty because it looks like crap now.
It's bending inwards at the bottom line and then bulges out. Need to remove the door to try to straighten it
Fortunately I have not bent the flange all the way down.....just hope I can get it off without too much damage.
Gaps looks too tight also.....:censored:
new door panel.jpg
new door panel gaps.jpg
 

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Just like the one i change skin on, folding doorskins was lots harder than i tought.
Especially when the inner structure is not the right shape.

I need to add some metal also at a few places to make the gap even.
Either I will fill with tig weld or weld some metal and grind it down if its to much.
Where its to tight i will grind off and tig weld the edge.

Its easy to adjust the edges with a rubber malet and a wide plier.
I have not done all the adjustment yet just tested at a few places.

There is a swedish group on fb called bilplåtslagare with lots of knowledge about sheet metal work, especially a guy called Bengt Erik Blad he got lots of tips and trix in he's pocket :)
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Just like the one i change skin on, folding doorskins was lots harder than i tought.
Especially when the inner structure is not the right shape.

I need to add some metal also at a few places to make the gap even.
Either I will fill with tig weld or weld some metal and grind it down if its to much.
Where its to tight i will grind off and tig weld the edge.

Its easy to adjust the edges with a rubber malet and a wide plier.
I have not done all the adjustment yet just tested at a few places.

There is a swedish group on fb called bilplåtslagare with lots of knowledge about sheet metal work, especially a guy called Bengt Erik Blad he got lots of tips and trix in he's pocket :)
Yeah it was much harder than I thought as well. Didn't exactly just fold in and everything fitted perfect.

Thanks for the tip regarding the website, I will check it out.
 

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I feel your pain on the door skins. I had to replace both of mine as well as the inner door bottoms. They are a pain to get right. Before I installed the inners I made a couple of contour gauges and then replaced the inner before cutting the skin loose thinking that would get them right and still had issues. Keep at it you will get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
I feel your pain on the door skins. I had to replace both of mine as well as the inner door bottoms. They are a pain to get right. Before I installed the inners I made a couple of contour gauges and then replaced the inner before cutting the skin loose thinking that would get them right and still had issues. Keep at it you will get there.
I will remove the door and peel the skin off again. The bottom of the door should be a straight line so it should not be too difficult, but it bulges when hammered and the contour does not seem to be right so I believe the edges need to be adjusted.
Anyhow the rear quarters need to be installed before I do anything more so I will just leave the door for now and deal with it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Before the quarter panel can be installed I need to remove all or part of the fabbed outer rocker panel made by PO.
Seems like he planned for a bath tub in the rear seat since he added two copper pipes through the rocker panels :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

inside long rocker.jpg
 
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