Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Started yesterday on conversion to power front disk brakes, total rebuild of front end and replacement of all steel/rubber brake lines front to back as well as fuel line replacement front to back on BIL's car....

This is a resto mod so forgive incorrect colors and/or parts.

Removal of drum brake parts and all suspension on passenger side for rebuild and/or replacement and paint/detail

Marc S
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
67,750 Posts
great pics, thanks for sharing marc. :tu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
I'm in the process of doing the same thing to mine. But your frame and suspension is a LOT cleaner. I'm not going to worry about painting the frame and stuff, though. Just a scrape and wipe and mount the parts. I'll worry about painting when I get a chance save some more money and do it right. As of now, it'd be like gilding a sows ear.

Nice pics!

I gotta say, though, you high-end guys sure do live well. (Thinks to self): "Oh.... to have a carpeted shop floor." :sign0020:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
50,811 Posts
Replacing all of those lines is a very smart move....and we appreciate the pictures....:congrats:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replacing all of those lines is a very smart move....and we appreciate the pictures....:congrats:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
I figure the system will be dry anyway so why not replace everything relating to the brakes right? I already rebuilt the diff and rear drums so everything forward will be replaced. Since I had the brake line running the length of the frame out... well.... why not replace the fuel line right?
This is truly a barn-find in the sense that nothing has been replaced chassis wise except the service items so this stuff is original to car and NEEDS replacing badly.


Glad you all enjoy the pics....... and MANY more to come

Marc S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm in the process of doing the same thing to mine. But your frame and suspension is a LOT cleaner. I'm not going to worry about painting the frame and stuff, though. Just a scrape and wipe and mount the parts. I'll worry about painting when I get a chance save some more money and do it right. As of now, it'd be like gilding a sows ear.

Nice pics!

I gotta say, though, you high-end guys sure do live well. (Thinks to self): "Oh.... to have a carpeted shop floor." :sign0020:
I wouldn't go so far as to say "high end". That's just old carpet from one of my rentals. I used it because raw unfinished concrete is hell on knee caps.

Marc S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
I wouldn't go so far as to say "high end". That's just old carpet from one of my rentals. I used it because raw unfinished concrete is hell on knee caps.

Marc S
That's what I figured. I looked at your pictures and had a *DOH!* moment, mad with myself for not thinking of that. The construction style of strap-on knee-pads get uncomfortable after a few minutes in the same position.

Good thinking on your part. :tu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Heres a few more pics....

Shot of spray bombed a-arm from the 80's(The whole chassis is like this-my BIL encapsulated the entire underside of this car with thick undercoat and semi-gloss black in the 80's and its what saved it from rust)
Shot of finished pass steer arm(GM)
Shot of my inspiration(Grand daughter)

As stated in OP this will be a resto-mod not a concours rebuild. I am using contrasting colors like semi-gloss black, cast blast, zinc dichromate, etc. Not correct but it will look good.

Marc S
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
more progress pics

Pictures of homemade spring compressor in use gotten from ideas on this forum!

Works great-just remember to capture the spring with a strap or chain just in case something goes wrong.

It appears this front end has never been apart-except for basic service items. After a conversation with my BIL this was his daily driver from 1972 till about 1992 when he parked it for an electrical gremlin he never figured out till I married his sister and began the resto.

Marc S
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
more progress pics

Pass side spindel, spring and a arms removed.
Not as much crust/crud as I was expecting. Mainly surface rust. Undercoat was everywhere!

PS-I goofed on the homemade spring compressor by purchasing 3/8 threaded rod, should have used 1/2 threaded rod.

Marc S
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
7-17-13 progress pics

Cleaned and primed a-arms headed for bushing and ball joint replacement-man these things were caked with old grease and undercoat on the bottoms. I did manage to asertain that these ball joints have been repalced at some point as they were bolt on instead of rivit. My fleet mechanic does this stuff for me at no charge otherwise I would be doing the bushing and ball joint replacement myself.(beni of running a fleet of 15 trucks I guess)

Also pics of "Toms classic" disk brake kit-these are 68-72 chevelle style rotors using late model GM metric calipers and MC so calipers are mounted in the more traditional rearward position. 14" wheels are usable as well but does off set the wheels 7/8" per side.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
7-18-13 UPDATE question W/PICS

A shot of the a-arms and their respective shafts..
-I am taking for granted shaft is directional and side specific due to way it bolts to frame correct?

A shot of the drag link
-This is my first tri five drag link rebuild or drag link of any kind really as all the other cars I've done we just replaced the unit altogether as rebuild kits were not available.
-Can somebody supply a link to an exploded view of how it comes apart at the pitman arm? I cant seem to seperate the two parts but I know I am not seeing something.
-It appears that the idler arm does not have a bushing but more like a roller bearing?

Marc S
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
The steering relay rod is connected to the pitman arm where the ball of the pitman arm is captured by two ball seats. Remove the end plug with a screwdriver. Behind that is a spring with another plug inside it. You may need to fish it out with a pick if the grease has thickened up over time. Once the spring and inner plug are removed, the pitman arm slides to the outside of the relay rod. The stainless cover and the rubber seal will move with the arm. Once you have slid the arm about 1-1/2" inches, it will pull out of the relay rod through an expanded portion of the hole. The outer ball seat will come out the end of the rod. Then use a pick, solvent, and/or compressed air to remove the inner ball seat, inner spring and inner plug. It can be a bit frustrating if things are gummed up, but once you get it apart, it makes sense.

The internal view of the parts as assembled is on "Steering, section 9-3, figure 5--- Pitman Arm Attachment to Relay Rod" of the 1955 shop manual, but I can't find a link to that page.

Your idler arm sounds like it has had a bearing upgrade kit installed. Something like this?

http://www.danchuk.com/images/Downloads/Instruction Sheets/2872.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The steering relay rod is connected to the pitman arm where the ball of the pitman arm is captured by two ball seats. Remove the end plug with a screwdriver. Behind that is a spring with another plug inside it. You may need to fish it out with a pick if the grease has thickened up over time. Once the spring and inner plug are removed, the pitman arm slides to the outside of the relay rod. The stainless cover and the rubber seal will move with the arm. Once you have slid the arm about 1-1/2" inches, it will pull out of the relay rod through an expanded portion of the hole. The outer ball seat will come out the end of the rod. Then use a pick, solvent, and/or compressed air to remove the inner ball seat, inner spring and inner plug. It can be a bit frustrating if things are gummed up, but once you get it apart, it makes sense.

The internal view of the parts as assembled is on "Steering, section 9-3, figure 5--- Pitman Arm Attachment to Relay Rod" of the 1955 shop manual, but I can't find a link to that page.

Your idler arm sounds like it has had a bearing upgrade kit installed. Something like this?

http://www.danchuk.com/images/Downloads/Instruction Sheets/2872.pdf
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh-I thought i was missing something. I knew there had to be an enlarged hole or keyway that would allow the two pieces to seperate.
I removed the screw in plug and spring but that inner plug dosent want to let go so I will fish it out tonight with a needle nose something then it should slide enough over to release:congrats:

Were the bearing upgrade kits around in the 80's? Thats when BIL says front end was rebuilt.

Marc S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Were the bearing upgrade kits around in the 80's? Thats when BIL says front end was rebuilt.

Marc S

Dunno, I've only started working on a Tri-Five a short while ago. I'm the newest of the newbies here. Maybe one of the "true" senior members here will know.


BTW... nice work and pics on your swap. :tu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
7-22-13 PROGRESS WITH PICS

Cute Driver!
Yes, she is cute.

Here are some progress pictures..........

1-detailed frame and inner fender
2-Detailed coils, draglink, spindels and steering arms
3-Idler prior to detailing
4-Reassembled and detailed tie rod assemblies
5-Idler arm bearing kit already on car

We are waiting for a-arms to return with new bushings and ball joints then we will final paint and detail them.

Next stage is reassembly..........stay tuned............same bat time, same bat channel.

marc S
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top