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1956 Nomad
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This nomad was originally purchased in 1987 as a drivable rust-bucket recovered from outside a barn in North Dakota. A full frame off restoration was started a few weeks later and continued for the next 10 years. The car was taken to its first show in 1998 and won best 55-57.
( I have a bunch of pictures of everything, just not digitally, will be working on that over the next few weeks)

Well, unfortunately after a year or two after the car was completed the paint began cracking and was spider webbed throughout most of the panels with exception of the hood and the roof. The car was still driven and taken to the weekend cruise ins but every time we drove it a small piece was flake off and we would touch it up with an air brush.

Fast forward to today, when after the car had sat for almost 6 years it was moved from my dads house to mine and the paint restoration has begun. all trim will be removed, car will be stripped to bare metal, and primed, hopefully re-painted and back on the road by spring. Also plan to give it a few modern updates: radials, 327, disk brakes etc.

will update this thread as progress continues.

Rolling off the flatbed (ethanol gummed up the carb, didnt want to run)


Flaking paint on tailgate... gravity did most of this.


More on the fender


Again, every panel has paint missing, really is depressing
 

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keep us posted.
Why do you say gravity?
I would think it was humidity if anything...moisture.
Just wondering.
Looks like it will all have to go down to bare metal.:anim_25:
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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My 2 cents worth. Lacquer primer was used on bare metal. Then it was WET SANDED smooth. Then lacquer paint was used. All the lead was removed from both by federal mandate, and the adhesion and durability was also removed. I've seen it too many times. Tell Tale sign is the rust petina on the tailgate.

Strip it all the way down, D/A the surface with 80grit and apply 2 coats of epoxy to it. Then come back with a highbuild 2K Urethane primer. Block sand and do your body work over this. This is the best system. The epoxy will be just like the 40% lead primer used by the factory in 56. After all the prep work is done, use a single stage urethane paint. Dupont has all the colors matched in ChromaPremier. If you want to use base clear it is ChromaBase. Then, when done, you can forget-about-it.

Mikey
55wagoncazy
 

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1956 Nomad
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387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
keep us posted.
Why do you say gravity?
I would think it was humidity if anything...moisture.
Just wondering.
Looks like it will all have to go down to bare metal.:anim_25:
I say gravity because I was meaning we didn't scrape or pick it off. It just fell off on its own. Humidity probably has a bit of help with this too. Car was painted in Omaha and then transported to VA soon after.

Also, thanks for the explanation of the paint issue, the prep is definitely at fault, the bare metal underneath is slick as glass. Most of the car was dipped rather than sandblasted to remove original paint and rust.
 

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good looking nomad, will be looking forward to updates. :tu
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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10,171 Posts
Also, thanks for the explanation of the paint issue, the prep is definitely at fault, the bare metal underneath is slick as glass. Most of the car was dipped rather than sandblasted to remove original paint and rust.
This changes everyting. Dipping can be a fast and easy way to remove paint and rust. BUT and that is the BIG BUT. If the metal is not completely cleaned & sealed then as it gets wet, the chemical will leach out of the metal, and start the process all over again. If any water was used on the primer etc, you got trouble starting.

YOU MUST SEAL THIS METAL NOW, AFTER 80 GRIT D/A.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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My 2 cents worth. Lacquer primer was used on bare metal. Then it was WET SANDED smooth. Then lacquer paint was used. All the lead was removed from both by federal mandate, and the adhesion and durability was also removed. I've seen it too many times. Tell Tale sign is the rust petina on the tailgate.

Strip it all the way down, D/A the surface with 80grit and apply 2 coats of epoxy to it. Then come back with a highbuild 2K Urethane primer. Block sand and do your body work over this. This is the best system. The epoxy will be just like the 40% lead primer used by the factory in 56. After all the prep work is done, use a single stage urethane paint. Dupont has all the colors matched in ChromaPremier. If you want to use base clear it is ChromaBase. Then, when done, you can forget-about-it.

Mikey
55wagoncazy
I agree with Mikey 100000% because THAT is EXACTLY what i did to my Nomad.:anim_25::anim_25::anim_25:
 

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1956 Nomad
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forgot to add.. this car was restored in the 80s, all the stainless is original. I can remember spending coutless nights in the garage with my dad tapping out all the dents and polishing everything over and over. I think the bumpers were re-chromed and maybe the hood trim.

I was talking to him the other night after showing him the forum and a few of the links to parts I have found. He jokingly said his restoration could have been 5 years quicker if he just bought the stuff rather than restoring it. Too bad "sweat equity" doesnt apply to car values like homes.
 
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