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after reading some really well thought out posts on here, i decided to tackle by myself the leaking rear oil seal on my '57 210 sedan 283ci engine (i've only had this car a few weeks now and i bought it knowing there was a leak--former owner said about 1/2 quart every 300 miles which appeared to be correct during the 250 miles i put on the car before tackling the problem); a lot of posters did their fix with the engine out, but several posts indicated that it could be done with the engine in

so, despite being mostly a brake, belt and oil change type of guy, i decided to at least pull the oil pan off and go from there (in advance i bought a one piece rubber oil pan gasket from eckler's, oil filter of course, and a best gaskets two piece real oil seal--the type with the wire embedded--and i bought a "sneaky pete" tool to help with the seal, old and new)

let's just say, i got extremely lucky

on thursday evening, i drove the car up on the car ramps, then drained oil and pulled filter, and then off came the old oil pan--it had the old style four piece gasket (had to disconnect part of steering linkage under the oil pan to make access for the pan to come off)--then i walked away for 2 hours to let it drip away

next, off came the oil pump-1 stubborn bolt-and then the rear cam cap-2 stubborn bolts

when i wiggled the cap off, to my surprise was what appeared to be the original rope oil seal--BOTH halves were sticking out--i simply took a pair of plyers and tugged on each and they came out with hardly any pressure--one half looked pretty chewed up in a spot, both were oil soaked from end to end

putting the new two piece rubber seal was almost as easy as removing the rope seal--the half in the cap was a no brainer--the other half, knowing i might have to enlist someone to turn the crank while i pushed it in--turned out to be a 2 minute job--i lubed the seal that goes around the crank (top half) with the recommended lube and in two minutes i was able to push it in, the last inch or so with the handle end of a screwdriver

and NO, i never used that sneaky pete that many suggested might be necessary

i used the recommended sealant on the ends of the new seal and cap areas as suggested by the posters--put the cap and oil pump back on

then used the new oil pan gasket holders to easily put the new one piece oil pan gasket back on with the sealant in the recommended spots--new oil filter and oil, and then let it sit from about 10pm Thursday evening until today, saturday afternoon, before testing--went on a 20 mile drive today and NO oil leak

from start to finish, the job was about 4 hours, including 2 hours of letting the oil drip after the oil pan was off; unlike some folks who posted on here, i encountered none of the possible problems with the rear oil seal fix--my old back is the only thing that suffered a bit crawling around under the car

"lucky" would be understating how this job went

thanks to all those who shared their experiences previously; i read all the posts i could find and each of them helped and made me feel capable of doing this on a vehicle i know practically nothing about (until now that is)
 

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Thats what I like to hear a job well done :tu

It a job that looks daunting but once you get stuck into it its not that bad :congrats:

Goodbye to a leaky seal :)
 
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Congratulation on a job well done. Had a really awful day on mine today and your post makes me smile. Way to Go. Lloyd :bowtier:
 

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yours went smoothly, the way most go. other's that went badly are the exception.
 
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Thanks for the update. Excellent info. :tu :bowtier:
 

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Ordered my seal and it's on the way. I'll be as happy as you when I get rid of that nasty leak.
 
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