G-man, sorry to hear about your eyes. Glad to hear you recovered and healed. Thanks for giving the heads up to other members.
57 Chevy Bel Air 2-door (new to me) – mechanical & electrical work
Last year I bought a 1957 Chevy BelAir 2-door sedan (post).
I always liked the look and lines of the 57 and I think it looks sleek just standing still.
Also been an old time Chevy guy. (gotta love the small block V-8).
Cosmetically the car looked great and ran pretty well when I test drove it. But after buying the car I started to realize that the previous owner cared more about how the car looked, than how well it functioned or how reliable it was. So I ended up with quite a few projects. Therefore, I thought I would start a project thread.
I wasn’t looking a show car, but I wanted a car that would be reliable and functional.
Here is a photo on the day I brought it home.
![Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Vehicle registration plate]()
The previous owner told me that the engine was a 1967 Chevy small block and the 4-speed manual transmission was a T-10. Also in his ad, the previous owner listed the rear end gears as 3:83. Well it turns out the previous owner was incorrect on a few things.
After getting the numbers off the engine block and the transmission . . . . and doing a little research (thank goodness for the internet) . . . . . I determined the engine is a 1973 Chevy 350 c.i. small block from a pickup truck and the transmission is a 1976 Borg-Warner Super T-10 (aluminum case). The bell housing appears to be from a 1970 Chevy pickup.
I also determined the rear end gears were 3:73
I always liked the look and lines of the 57 and I think it looks sleek just standing still.
Also been an old time Chevy guy. (gotta love the small block V-8).
Cosmetically the car looked great and ran pretty well when I test drove it. But after buying the car I started to realize that the previous owner cared more about how the car looked, than how well it functioned or how reliable it was. So I ended up with quite a few projects. Therefore, I thought I would start a project thread.
I wasn’t looking a show car, but I wanted a car that would be reliable and functional.
Here is a photo on the day I brought it home.
The previous owner told me that the engine was a 1967 Chevy small block and the 4-speed manual transmission was a T-10. Also in his ad, the previous owner listed the rear end gears as 3:83. Well it turns out the previous owner was incorrect on a few things.
After getting the numbers off the engine block and the transmission . . . . and doing a little research (thank goodness for the internet) . . . . . I determined the engine is a 1973 Chevy 350 c.i. small block from a pickup truck and the transmission is a 1976 Borg-Warner Super T-10 (aluminum case). The bell housing appears to be from a 1970 Chevy pickup.
I also determined the rear end gears were 3:73
41 - 60 of 98 Posts
After everything was welded in, I used Evercoat # 365 seam sealer on the interior and exterior floor panel seams.
I really liked the Evercoat #365 seam sealer. Good stuff and easy to work with . . . and its thick enough that it doesn't drip when doing the seams under the car.
![Wheel Tin Tire Automotive parking light Automotive tire]()
I used a disposable 2-inch paint brush (with the bristles cut short) to apply the seam sealer (which has the consistency of peanut butter). Fumes are a little strong . . . .so make sure to use it with adequate ventilation. I kept my garage door open when applying it.
After sealing the inner and outer seams, I painted the inside floor area by brush with some enamel paint and the floor area underneath the car (just to prevent any surface rusting and to neaten things up a little). Here are some photos of the interior floor areas after they were painted.
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Cable]()
![Automotive lighting Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design]()
Big improvement over what I started with . . . which was a dirty rusty mess.
I really liked the Evercoat #365 seam sealer. Good stuff and easy to work with . . . and its thick enough that it doesn't drip when doing the seams under the car.
I used a disposable 2-inch paint brush (with the bristles cut short) to apply the seam sealer (which has the consistency of peanut butter). Fumes are a little strong . . . .so make sure to use it with adequate ventilation. I kept my garage door open when applying it.
After sealing the inner and outer seams, I painted the inside floor area by brush with some enamel paint and the floor area underneath the car (just to prevent any surface rusting and to neaten things up a little). Here are some photos of the interior floor areas after they were painted.
Big improvement over what I started with . . . which was a dirty rusty mess.
After driving the car for some time, I determined that the engine's rear main seal was leaking oil.
In addition, I discovered the engine's front crank seal at the harmonic balancer was leaking oil really bad.
I was adding a quart of oil about every 300 miles driven . . . . and I know I wasn't burning the oil because I did not have any blue smoke out the exhaust.
Replacing the two-piece rear main crankshaft seal requires removing the oil pan.
And in order to remove the oil pan, I would need to jack up the engine.
If I have to go about jacking up the engine . . . . I decided that I might as well just remove the engine from the car. That way the engine will be a lot easier to work on . . . since I have a bunch of other stuff I want to do to the engine and the car.
Removed the radiator, radiator support, battery tray, radiator support filler panels, etc.
![Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior Gas]()
Pulled the engine and transmission out as one unit.
![Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Machine Machine tool]()
Bought some bolt on engine mount stands from Speedway Motors. These are great for setting the engine down on the ground and keep everything nice and stable.
![Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Automotive tire Gas]()
In addition, I discovered the engine's front crank seal at the harmonic balancer was leaking oil really bad.
I was adding a quart of oil about every 300 miles driven . . . . and I know I wasn't burning the oil because I did not have any blue smoke out the exhaust.
Replacing the two-piece rear main crankshaft seal requires removing the oil pan.
And in order to remove the oil pan, I would need to jack up the engine.
If I have to go about jacking up the engine . . . . I decided that I might as well just remove the engine from the car. That way the engine will be a lot easier to work on . . . since I have a bunch of other stuff I want to do to the engine and the car.
Removed the radiator, radiator support, battery tray, radiator support filler panels, etc.
Pulled the engine and transmission out as one unit.
Bought some bolt on engine mount stands from Speedway Motors. These are great for setting the engine down on the ground and keep everything nice and stable.
An addition benefit of my decision to remove the engine was gaining access to the exterior firewall . . . because I decided to install a Vintage Air kit in the car so that I could have heat, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) and removing the engine would give much better access to the firewall area to make installation of the entire HVAC system easier.
Here is a photo of the Vintage Air under-dash HVAC unit to be installed.
![Motor vehicle Gadget Electrical wiring Bumper Automotive exterior]()
Here is a photo of the Vintage Air under-dash HVAC unit to be installed.
The transmission being pulled off the engine.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Saw Engineering]()
In preparation for replacing the rear main seal, I took the oil pan off and found that the Chevy small block 350 engine had four bolt mains. I thought that it might, since the engine came out of a 1973 truck.
![Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design Rim]()
Removed the front timing chain cover in preparation for replacing the front crankshaft seal (which leaked pretty bad).
Found out the engine has a double roller timing chain (which was a pleasant surprise).
I also plan on installing a new harmonic balancer.
![Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gear]()
Found out the engine has a double roller timing chain (which was a pleasant surprise).
I also plan on installing a new harmonic balancer.
New timing chain cover, new front crankshaft seal and new harmonic balancer installed.
![Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Automotive design]()
Replaced the rear main seal at the end of the crankshaft.
I bought the standard FelPro rear main seal kit (part # BS40013) and I also bought the FelPro offset double lip rear main seal kit (part # BS11829-1). Ended up using the offset lip rear main seal, which rides on a new section of the crankshaft vs. the section of the crankshaft the old seal rode on.
Also installed a new Melling oil pump drive shaft (part #IS-55E) that has an integrated metal collar, which eliminates the use of the plastic sleeve at the oil pump connection. The old plastic sleeve was so brittle that it shattered into a couple of pieces when I removed the oil pump.
Cleaned up and painted the oil pan. Installed a new one-piece FelPro oil pan gasket (part # 375-OS34510T), which is very thick and comes with new bolts.
Cleaning up the rest of the engine block in preparation for painting it.
![Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Bumper Automotive tire]()
I bought the standard FelPro rear main seal kit (part # BS40013) and I also bought the FelPro offset double lip rear main seal kit (part # BS11829-1). Ended up using the offset lip rear main seal, which rides on a new section of the crankshaft vs. the section of the crankshaft the old seal rode on.
Also installed a new Melling oil pump drive shaft (part #IS-55E) that has an integrated metal collar, which eliminates the use of the plastic sleeve at the oil pump connection. The old plastic sleeve was so brittle that it shattered into a couple of pieces when I removed the oil pump.
Cleaned up and painted the oil pan. Installed a new one-piece FelPro oil pan gasket (part # 375-OS34510T), which is very thick and comes with new bolts.
Cleaning up the rest of the engine block in preparation for painting it.
41 - 60 of 98 Posts
