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Ok, got the horn working and while I was at it I noticed one leg of the turn signal canceling plate that screws into the back of the steering wheel was broken. So.. ordered the canceling mechanism and installed that. Put steering wheel back on and thought I had it on properly . I read about matching an alignment mark on the stud to the steering wheel but I could not find any such mark. Went for a test drive and the steering wheel didn"t feel right and was not on the right location(horn plate was at an angle when going straight.
No biggy, as I am an expert at taking the steering wheel off by now and I thought all I had to do was move the steering wheel to center it up properly.
Removed wheel and discovered that I had broken one of the canceling pawls and the rubber piece that contacts it also was broken. Ordered the pawl and rubber pieces yesterday so I am hoping someone can tell me how to align the steering wheel properly as I assume I had it in the wrong location and this is what broke the pawl. One other question is that I installed a new spring(below wheel) and also got a small seat that is supposed to go under spring but it was too small diameter to go over threaded stud unless I spread it so I left it out. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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I may be completely wrong here. I would suggest you get a wheel alignment first this way you know everything is straight they should be able to align your steering wheel correctly I had a rebuilt front end done years ago. after all that was done and aligned . I had to take my steering wheel off to center it again.

Like I said I may be all wrong here but that's what I ha to do. Peter
 

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I may be completely wrong here. I would suggest you get a wheel alignment first this way you know everything is straight they should be able to align your steering wheel correctly I had a rebuilt front end done years ago. after all that was done and aligned . I had to take my steering wheel off to center it again. Peter
X2 Peter
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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I read about matching an alignment mark on the stud to the steering wheel but I could not find any such mark. Went for a test drive and the steering wheel didn"t feel right and was not on the right location(horn plate was at an angle when going straight.
One other question is that I installed a new spring(below wheel) and also got a small seat that is supposed to go under spring but it was too small diameter to go over threaded stud unless I spread it so I left it out. Any advice would be appreciated.
The canceling cam should not break the turn signal pawls, no matter where the wheel is installed, unless the tabs on the cam are bent or the pawls installed wrong, OR the wheel has too much side play because the bearing race (small seat) was not installed. If the wheel is not centered, it will cancel the turn signals at the wrong place, but not break anything.
The scribe mark mentioned is on the end of the steering shaft and should be at 12 o'clock when the wheels are straight ahead. View A. .... http://www.trifive.com/garage/57%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/9-2.gif ...... If someone has beat on the shaft to remove the wheel, the mark may be gone. To center the wheel, drive or roll the car as straight as you can to a stop, pull the wheel off and reinstall with it centered.
The "small seat" is the inner race of the upper bearing in the turn signal housing and the spring holds it against the bearing to remove play in the shaft. It needs to be pushed down into the bearing.

 

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I took the car for a drive with the wheel nut loose, readjusted wheel as needed to get straight alignment :anim_25:
that's what I do. Then I used a file to make a new mark on shaft and steering wheel
 

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The steering gear has a high point where there is less play in the center position for better steering control while driving in a straight line down a straight and level road (not much center peak).

You can find this center high point position if the steering gear's slack adjusting screw on top is properly adjusted to remove all the excess play.

With the front tires off the ground turn the steering wheel fully to one side (to its stop) noting the position of the steering wheel spokes. Then turn it fully to the other side (to that stop) counting the number of turns and again noting the position of the steering wheel spokes. If the worm gear is properly adjusted you should feel a resistance (tightness) as you pass through the center high point.

Now turn the steering wheel back half the number of turns stop to stop to the center position where the resistance (tightness) is greatest. You can rock back and forth in the center area to determine the where it is tightest with the least amount of slack. That is the steering gear’s center high point position where there is the least amount of play during driving and where your steering wheel (spokes) should be straight. If your steering wheel is not straight pull it off and reposition it as necessary.

Now, while driving, if your steering wheel is not straight then the last alignment guy got the tie rods uneven and that can be reset by another alignment.
 
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