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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. I searched around a bit but I couldnt find any info that is specific to my problem..

I have:
57' 4 Door
267 out of a 81' monte carlo (hold your laughter, please)
2 Speed Original Powerglide
4 BL Quadrajet
No power options (Had factory PB but no more, vac Tee is plugged)
HEI w/ external coil

We have done a big tuneup over the last few weeks, as money permits. The car is running pretty well, better than it has in the past.

My question: The car starts, and runs just like it should. The problem is when the car is put into drive, it just dies. The idle sounds correct, the timing is advanced somewhere around 5 or 6 degrees. What could the problem be.
What could the problem be?
I dont think it has anything to do with the tranny or torque converter... We have driven the car in the past perfectly normal.
Any ideas would be great!

Thanks in advance
 

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Hey everyone. I searched around a bit but I couldnt find any info that is specific to my problem..

I have:
57' 4 Door
267 out of a 81' monte carlo (hold your laughter, please)
2 Speed Original Powerglide
4 BL Quadrajet
No power options (Had factory PB but no more, vac Tee is plugged)
HEI w/ external coil

We have done a big tuneup over the last few weeks, as money permits. The car is running pretty well, better than it has in the past.

My question: The car starts, and runs just like it should. The problem is when the car is put into drive, it just dies. The idle sounds correct, the timing is advanced somewhere around 5 or 6 degrees. What could the problem be.
What could the problem be?
I dont think it has anything to do with the tranny or torque converter... We have driven the car in the past perfectly normal.
Any ideas would be great!

Thanks in advance
Maybe you have a neutral safety switch issue, just a guess.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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27,084 Posts
Do you have vacuum advance? Is it working? You may be able to use more timing, maybe 10 to 12 degrees.
The neutral safety switch keeps it from cranking, it won't cause it to die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have vacuum advance? Is it working? You may be able to use more timing, maybe 10 to 12 degrees.
The neutral safety switch keeps it from cranking, it won't cause it to die.
Yes, it's working. So try advancing it more and see what happens?
sounds like a plan

Does it come to an abrupt stop or does it sputter to a stop?
At first it would sputter, die, and come back on, on its own- but now it just dies as if you are turning the key off.

did you set the idle with the car in drive?

Don
Cant get it into drive. But I am almost positive the car is not idling too low. Even when the cars' idle is fast (when it's cold), it still will die.
 

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Yes, it's working. So try advancing it more and see what happens?
sounds like a plan


At first it would sputter, die, and come back on, on its own- but now it just dies as if you are turning the key off.



Cant get it into drive. But I am almost positive the car is not idling too low. Even when the cars' idle is fast (when it's cold), it still will die.
sounds like it could be electrical
 

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sounds like it could be electrical
Check that the engine is grounded to the frame and the body also check for loose/pinched +12v wire that feeds the coil, check the coil resistor on the firewall sometimes they can develop loose connections inside between the terminals and the resistance wire inside the ceramic casing.
monitor the voltage with a meter on the + terminal of the coil while running put the car in gear and see if the voltage drops off.
Also your rear mounts may be broken or sagged and when you put it into gear the engine moves a little and shorts something out or looses its grounding

Regards, Robert
 

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timing

Timing is super low. I'd start out with 20* initial, let mechanical advance kick it up to 30 to 35* and 3500 rpms (no vacume), and vacume advance add round 15 to 16* during vacume.

that should give you round 35* at idle high vacume.

Let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Timing is super low. I'd start out with 20* initial, let mechanical advance kick it up to 30 to 35* and 3500 rpms (no vacume), and vacume advance add round 15 to 16* during vacume.

that should give you round 35* at idle high vacume.

Let us know!
Tried knocking it up to about 15 with vacuum adv. line plugged, heard a knocking (assuming detonation?) ... so, I didn't want to go any higher.

Ran like crap with it advanced that far. would run for a minute on its own, then die. It's advanced now about 8 or 9 degrees - starts/runs/idles fine.. we drove it around the block today, only because we constantly were giving it gas. If you let off of the throttle even a bit it would die... I am completely confused.. All vacuum ports on the rear of carb are sealed properly.


ugh.
 

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:confused0006: Maybe there is something wrong with your torque conv. or trans. It sounds like you are putting an extra load on your engine when in gear.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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We have done a big tuneup over the last few weeks, as money permits. The car is running pretty well, better than it has in the past.
Did this problem start after the tune up? If so, what all was done on the tune up? Were the valves adjusted?
You may need to get a vacuum gauge and measure the vacumn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did this problem start after the tune up? If so, what all was done on the tune up? Were the valves adjusted?
You may need to get a vacuum gauge and measure the vacumn.
We did:

*Switched to an external coil HEI distributor
*12 volt Coil
*New wires
*New Valve cover gasket
*thermostat
*coolant temp sender
*switched to air cleaner instead of oil bath

and that's it.... again, we did drive the car today around the block and back. It did fine as long as you were accelerating. When you came to a slow, bringing the idle down, it would want to die.. Put it back in neutral or park, it would continue to drive perfectly fine.


When it DOES die, you place it in gear, it cuts off, and the carb hisses, and spews a puff of smoke for a moment.

Ive thought about the tranny mount being bad in the past, but if it was sagging would I have noticed it while driving? Same in regards to the TC or tranny?
 

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dist.....

Take the distributor cap off, grab the rotor button, and twist it back and forth to see if you have ANY spring advance. It should twist one way, the spring back when you let it go.

If not, you have a spring advance problem.

Most times is the springs are weak, or people put the lightest springs in the distributor trying to get the fastest advance possible out of the distributor.......

Which cause's this problem....

Once the timing advances, it'll never back off the timing due to the centrifical force keeping the weights out and the springs cant pull it back.......
causing you to idle the car down....which then causes....
the springs to finally overcome the centrifical forces, pulls timing back.....
timing goes out the bottom, car stalls.

A can can hold the timing advanced at a mere 700 rpms, you idle it down to 650 rpms, the springs move the rotor back, timing goes from 30+ down to 8* at 650, poof.

let us know what you find.....

D Moss
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take the distributor cap off, grab the rotor button, and twist it back and forth to see if you have ANY spring advance. It should twist one way, the spring back when you let it go.

If not, you have a spring advance problem.

Most times is the springs are weak, or people put the lightest springs in the distributor trying to get the fastest advance possible out of the distributor.......

Which cause's this problem....

Once the timing advances, it'll never back off the timing due to the centrifical force keeping the weights out and the springs cant pull it back.......
causing you to idle the car down....which then causes....
the springs to finally overcome the centrifical forces, pulls timing back.....
timing goes out the bottom, car stalls.

A can can hold the timing advanced at a mere 700 rpms, you idle it down to 650 rpms, the springs move the rotor back, timing goes from 30+ down to 8* at 650, poof.

let us know what you find.....

D Moss

D-

We just did put a new distributor in it as mentioned. I remember when we were trying to get the oil pump shaft lined up, i was twisting the rotor and i remember vividly that it was twisting back as you are saying it should. It wouldnt surprise me if the spring was a cheap part, though, and as it heats up it looses its tension?

But what you are saying makes perfect sense... I wish that was it. I will double check when i get home though.

I feel like it's vacuum or fuel related.. Everything else is has pretty much been updated/replaced.. My gut feeling says that my quadrajet is trash...
 

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I suspect vacc as well... how many of use a vacc guage? I know I do on everything - I keep a plugged vacc line on both my toys that I can get to even with the air cleaner on. If she starts acting up thats the first thing I connect to see how different it is from the last time I tuned. Use it to set idle mix, idle speed (idling up with cam to keep pwr brakes), check valves, choose power valve - all kinds of neat things.

Can you even catch it with your foot toi keep it running?

If so try turning the idle up to about 900 in n and see if it still dies going to d - if it does not then you may need the jiffy kit in that q - more than 200 rpm drop is usually mix or vacc leak. You can also give a quick spurt of carb cleaner while idling in N - if speeds up your mix is lean, slows down you are close or rich.
 
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