[KyleeRutledge]

I have a 1957 Chevy 150, it’s a 4 door, does anyone know if the front door latches and the rear door latches are the same size? I’ve been looking for laches because my doors don’t work, but I was wondering if the rear ones I found would also fit the front.

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

I'm only finding this: 1956 1957 Chevy Door Latch Assembly Driver Side LH-DO13-56LL

However, I'm not sure if the reproductions are any good or not.

 

[stoveboltgeek]

Do you mean the latch mechanism in the door or the striker plate in the door jamb? The latter are identical front and back. 1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog

the latch assembly is not the same. 1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog

 

[angs1957]

Is the door not closing because of the latch, sometimes the rotary spindle needs to be rotated then the door opened and closed again

 

[KyleeRutledge]

The door will shut but once it shuts it’s stuck there and you have to pull with a lot of force to get it open

 

[angs1957]

First have a look at the door handle push button, make sure that those parts are all lubricated so when the door handle is pressed its actually working properly, next is the strike plate make sure its not out of alignment.

 

[stoveboltgeek]

The door will shut but once it shuts it’s stuck there and you have to pull with a lot of force to get it open

You probably don't need new parts. Here's what to do.

First, inspect the striker plate. Clean it thoroughly, then re-lubricate the latching area with a THIN coat of white grease, like Lubriplate.

Now, inspect the wheel inside the latch on the door. Push the door handle button in, and rotate the wheel with your finger. I'll bet it's sticky. Spray a bit of carburetor cleaner up in there around the shaft (mask off around it if you have nice paint) and get it spinning easily. Then, put a little shot of spray lithium grease on the shaft. Then, clean the teeth on the wheel and put a light coat of white grease on the teeth.

 

[TheHotrodHandyman]

The door will shut but once it shuts it’s stuck there and you have to pull with a lot of force to get it open

Sounds like a good cleaning and lubrication will take care of your problem.

 

[johnonetrillion]

You probably don't need new parts. Here's what to do.

First, inspect the striker plate. Clean it thoroughly, then re-lubricate the latching area with a THIN coat of white grease, like Lubriplate.

Now, inspect the wheel inside the latch on the door. Push the door handle button in, and rotate the wheel with your finger. I'll bet it's sticky. Spray a bit of carburetor cleaner up in there around the shaft (mask off around it if you have nice paint) and get it spinning easily. Then, put a little shot of spray lithium grease on the shaft. Then, clean the teeth on the wheel and put a light coat of white grease on the teeth.

I have some work to do in the mechanisms to both my rear doors – they just sound clunky. Will try your suggestion as a first step.

 

[HILLBILLY 823]

If the hinge pins and/or bushings are worn, it can cause these problems. With the door open, try lifting to see if there is any play up and down at the rear of the door. My 57 sedan felt like the door was crashing into the latch. when I got it. I removed the hinges and replaced pins and bushings and it now has a smooth click when I close the doors.

 

[SeeTheUSA]

The door will shut but once it shuts it’s stuck there and you have to pull with a lot of force to get it open

Had a similar problem on my four door wagon.
Turned out to be as simple as a missing rubber bumper on the the door jam.
Without the rubber piece the door was allowed to close too far.
This put the star wheel in a bad position that would not allow it to release.

This is where the rubber bumper belongs...

They are reproduced, I just haven't gotten around to putting them in.
As long as I close the door easy its not a problem.

Edit: Found some at Mutton Hollow.
1957 Chevy 4-Door Hardtop Rubber Grommet Bumper Kit

Part Number: 16.23

 

[SeeTheUSA]

 

[Dragsix]

The front assembly has the additional key lock and unlock parts that the rear assembly does not have or need as no locks on the rear door. That is just one of probably a couple of differences. But as the others have stated, before you start throwing parts at it, clean, lubricate and diagnose the problem. These latch mechanisms are not known for a lot of operating defects unless they are really really rusted.

 

[stoveboltgeek]

A little perspective: door latch mechanisms were rarely if ever lubricated once they left the factory - regardless of what any maintenance schedule may have recommended. You're now talking about something that hasn't been lubricated in nearly 70 years....