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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pair of gm rocker moldings for my 57 that I have been squirreling away for over 30 years. I want to install them this year but if I remember when I had the originals on the car, the stock method for attaching them, hooking on the bottom and clipping it in on the top of the trim clip was not all that boot, got caught on shoes as you got out and came off a lot. Are there any alternatives to installing them with the stock type clips?
 

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I bought what was supposedly a better set to mount them with off of eBay and they were a waste of money. I ended up using the stock type along with a studded clip on each end.
Terry
 

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I discussed this same topic on another Chevy site just recently. I am thinking of installing the rockers on my 56 with double sided 3M molding tape. They have been using it at the factory for years and once it's on, it stays. Others said they have used it also. One suggestion was to install the clips on the molding with out the studs and put the tape on them.
 

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My convt' had them on and they never once came off or loose,in fact when I took them off to re-paint I had a heckova time getting them off. I have tried using the re-pop clips and from what I have seen the metal doesn't have the same temper and they just bend when you try to push the moldings on, once they bend every retry just makes the metal weaker. Maybe two sided tape would work, or my solution is to use NOS clips when the time comes.good luck
 

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I did what Terry did.
I had some problems getting them snapped over the top of the clips but an article I had said to use duckbills to bend the tabs down a little and that worked.
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You know, that approach may be the way to go. If I use a studded clip on each end, the hole for the clips are exposed so to speak, one in the lower front fender and one by the front of the rear wheel housing. Using double sided tape in between would save me the absolute agony and pain of having to drill into my brand new rockers.
 

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would you put it around the perimeter or double it up in the center to hold the molding on? Iwas going to leave mine off because I didn't want to drill holes, but this sounds like a great alternative
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One of my fenders still has a hole from the factory. So I will have to drill three more holes. Then I am thinking that i would use the double sided tape in about the same place as the stock clips would go. I am thinking that I probably don't want to create pockets that could potentially trap water/moisture behind the mounding so if I install the adhesive vertically as opposed to a perimeter install of the tape.
 

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Makes all the sense in the world once you kick the brain out of idle mode. Do you think I could hold it on with the tape only? Just hate the idea of drilling any holes.
 

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You can use just the tape alone. The 3M brand is the only one I'd use. I also recommend you install the clips and hold them in place with the tape or I've also used butyl rubber I get from a friend who works at a cemetery where they use it to seal vaults. Then put the 2 sided tape vertically on the clips. You can also put short pieces along the top and bottom edges of the molding, leaving drainage space as you feel necessary. The tape comes in rolls as thin as 1/8" but I use 1/4". When installed this way, you really can't tell the difference.
 

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I just spent a couple hours in the garage trying to install the rocker moldings from east coast chevy on my 56. The moldings look beautiful. I have run into the same issues discussed. I have attached a picture of the clips that came with the kit. I was able to slip on one end and snap 2 more. I think one issue is getting all the clips located in the precise position. If one clip is slightly high it is a bear to get the molding snapped on. I tried to tap the molding on with a towel padded piece of wood and a soft hammer and I only succeeded in bending the lip on top of the molding that is supposed to slip over the rounded top part of the clip. First, what is a studded clip and is the 3M tape commonly available at auto parts stores. I will.probably use a combination of clips and tape. Is the tape used on the two lips or in the middle of the molding. If it is in the middle, there needs to be a spacer. If the clips are installed on the molding, then the tape on the clip, will the molding stand off the rocker farther by the tape thickness? I am not particular to the method, (holes already drilled) but I do not want the molding to fall off on the road. Thanks
 

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I have used double sided tape for years as a professional Glazier, with great success. It is almost impossible to get off without destroying the part its applied to (unless you know the trick). But you need to do 2 things before you apply the tape. #1 clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry completely. #2 select a closed cell tape, (High bond as we call it in the trade) This type of tape is not susceptible to moisture and will not swell if it gets wet.
And just for a little added peace of mind I would put a few dollops of a high quality mirror mastic such as Gunthers mirror mastic in a few locations under the molding, that is of course if all your using to hold the piece on with is tape and not clips.
If you ever need to remove the molding (figured this question may come up) Use 80 pound fishing line in a sawing type action and just work it threw the tape and mastic.The line will not scratch the paint or the molding if you pull on the molding as you saw. I have installed and remove 1000"s of mirrors and panels using this method over the years. But must admit I never thought about doing it to the molding but now I'm gonna install mine with this method.

Oh yeah also try to find a tape that is fractionally thicker than the molding and do not double stack the tape. You should be able to go to any glass shop and buy this tape. Remember closed cell high bond, its almost always a white product and not at all black and spongy.
 

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I have used this tape from Home Depot on moldings on a couple of non-classic cars and it has held up very well. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yd-Exterior-Mounting-Tape-411-DC/100575385

I have not used this tape but it says it is Extreme Mounting... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-60-ft-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414-DC/203405976

Here is the 3M tape from Autozone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...lding-tape/_/N-25ej?itemIdentifier=517047_0_0_

I installed the trunk trim on the trunk lid last night, but haven't put on the two pieces that go between the trunk lid and the tail light housings. I plan on doing that tomorrow and I believe I will use some of the tape in addition to the two screws that came with the kit.

I also have new rocker moldings to install and believe I will use the tape on the push on clips. My clip kit does have bolt on for front only.
 

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Dragsix, let us know how it turns out and I will do the same. I think I know what the stud clips are now. The 57 kits shows them but the 56 does not. These threads are so helpful to all of us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have the benefit of having owned my car for over 35 years (since 16) and well remember why i had to remove the rocker moldings in the first place, because they always popped off or got caught on a shoe and then popped off when someone was getting out of the car. I just finally gave up. Now, after having scrimped and saved to have all of the east coast rust and rot fixed (my wife told me I would be 90 before I would get it fixed doing it myself with my work schedule so I better take it to someone who could fix the structural problem or i would never drive it again) i am really uncomfortable drilling holes in the new sheet metal so I will keep you posted on how this works out. I really like look of the rocker moldings but not so much as to drill holes, lol.
 

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I finished installing on the rocker moldings on a 56 chevy. To mark the holes, a template came with the instructions. I photocopied onto a piece of file folder paper as it was stiffer. Two holes need to be drilled and trying to use the template for both is not very accurate. I marked the lower hole using the template then measured up to the top hole. I did this on the second side as I learned as I went along. I removed all the clips on the only side I tried and re-bent the top rounded tangs that catch the top lip of the molding so they would be easier to to catch the molding when installing it. I found that one of the moldings needed very little pressure to press the molding over the top tangs as it must have have had a slightly larger opening. So check the clips to the molding before installing the clips. Next I used the 3M molding tape from Autozone and I put a 2 inch piece on the molding edge on either side of where the clip will hook the molding. I started on the rear of the molding and slid the molding on the clip which assured it would be attached firmly. On the rest of the clips, I positioned the bottom of the molding to catch the clip and snapped the top of the molding over the clip. A couple were too difficult to snap so I used a small punch and tapped the tang down a little bit and snapped it on. At all clips, the molding was held firm by the clip and the tape and it is possible to see the tape thickness. For my purposes, it looks great and I am satisfied. Let's see what happens when I drive it!
 

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Tape sounds nice. I used nut rivets. I noticed that my rocker panel wasn't real even across the board, with a straight edge piece of metal. If it were, the tape might work out real nice. As it was I was able to adjust how the trim lay accross the rocker. No gaps. my $.02
 

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A buddy of mine used some small self tapping screws, screwed the brackets straight into the rocker then clipped the moulding over the brackets nice tight fit :tu
 
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