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Discussion Starter #1
Just swapped over the old 265 in my 56 with a newer built 283 – with the same 700R4 behind it.

The trans was serviced at the time of engine swap.

I notice the change from 1 to 2 happens now with a jump/jolt – it's definitely not smooth. And it's about the same regardless off the load I put onto it.

Is this something that can be adjusted?
 

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The throttle may be a little high in the shift sequence hence the jolt, I would look at the TV cable set up as well.
 

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depends onn the shift kit used, but the tv cable may come into play too. most of the TV corrector kits out there today are really not correct. I only use the tv made easy kits from bowtieoverdrives.com now. they work well and have some nice adjustment features to them.
 

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The TV cable is adjusted too tight, and needs to be adjusted forward to relieve pressure. When I first installed my 700R4 it shifted late, regardless of throttle pedal position, and shifted pretty harsh too. I released the cable to allow it to move towards the carburetor, and it shifted earlier, and not as harsh.
Videos say to get the TV cable slack, and hold the throttle linkage wide open. Then adjust the TV cable back until all the slack is gone, and it tries to pull the throttle back. That should be very close, and then you can tweak it slightly from there.
I did this, but then it went to shifting early, and too soft. So I adjusted the cable back until it shifted where I wanted and a bit firmer too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, guys. Makes sense, since the TV cable was off the carb when all that was being changed over.
You'll have to adjust your TV cable. Pretty much like a kickdown cable. Get on U tube.
 

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Yes, if it was disconnected, and not reconnected the same way as before, it will need adjustment. Once it's connected, and you get the carb held wide open; then pull on the TV cable end to see how much further it pulls out. Then simply adjust it back until all that excess is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just looked at this.

Pulled the acc to WOT and there was definitely no play on the TV cable. But at rest it is a little soft – softer than prior.

The adjustment is already fully out, so I guess I need to reposition the bracket back a little on the carb body to allow some movement, even if just a little. (Don’t want to be changing any angles, though.)

91777637-71AA-4F08-96AA-6980218AC9B3.jpeg
 

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You can't change the orientation of the attachment point on the carb, as it needs to be correct for the carb's pivot point to TV cable point. I see someone welded up the TV cable bracket, and didn't leave enough adjustment. Need the whole bracket to be moved back to give more adjustment, if it needs it.
But you have a simpler fix. The two screws holding the plate to the cable end can be removed. Then pop the plate off the cable end, and flip it 180 degrees to face backwards. Then it will give you plenty of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can't change the orientation of the attachment point on the carb, as it needs to be correct for the carb's pivot point to TV cable point. I see someone welded up the TV cable bracket, and didn't leave enough adjustment. Need the whole bracket to be moved back to give more adjustment, if it needs it.
But you have a simpler fix. The two screws holding the plate to the cable end can be removed. Then pop the plate off the cable end, and flip it 180 degrees to face backwards. Then it will give you plenty of adjustment.
Great tips. Thanks.

If I pivot the anchor point on the carb body just a few degrees, that will turn the assembly back to face where the cable is coming up anyway – so a more direct line. (This is probably what happened in reverse when it was disassembled.)

And yes, I see that flipping the angle bracket might do the trick.

Or maybe put a temporary stop to the cable end?

But re adjustment, it feels just a little loose in static position. But at WOT it is good and tight. Given this, is it still ok to tighten it a little ... say a half inch? (But too much would effect lockdown, right?) Maybe just some trial and error is the way.
 

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Tighten it too much and you'll basically limit open throttle on your carb. Did you pull hard on the end of the TV cable with the carb at wide open? It's got a lot of resistance as it gets near full throttle, so you might assume you're there, but have more leftover.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was at my mechanic’s yesterday and he pointed out the cable has a ratchet adjustment on it. He tweaked it a bit and now it changes at about 18mph. But it is pretty jumpy just on that 1 > 2 shift so he reckons some different adjustment is due. (We’ll look at it again when the new distributor goes in.)
 

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If it's like mine the shift seems harder the more I back off on the throttle at the 1-2 shift point. If I keep accelerating it doesn't feel as firm as it does if I let off as it shifts.
Guess I thought you'd already used up the ratchet adjustment since you mentioned there was none left? That's the only adjustment I use myself, as once I set the two screw plate I never move it there again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hehe ... you are one step ahead of me: I did not even know there was a ratchet adjustment on that cable! The button was not visible. :p I thought it was only from the two screws holding the bracket.

Will get this sorted. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, the release button can be positioned 4 different directions, so can be hidden.
And ... how do you re-set it? Just take it out of the bracket?
 

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The bracket is a square hole, with tabs that lock it into the hole. So by squeezing the tabs it can be released and pulled back out of the bracket. Then simply turn it until the button is directed where you want it, and snap it back in. I prefer the push button pointed straight up as it's the easiest to depress that way for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The bracket is a square hole, with tabs that lock it into the hole. So by squeezing the tabs it can be released and pulled back out of the bracket. Then simply turn it until the button is directed where you want it, and snap it back in. I prefer the push button pointed straight up as it's the easiest to depress that way for me.
And so the tension brought by the ratchet is released when the unit is taken out of the bracket?
 

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And so the tension brought by the ratchet is released when the unit is taken out of the bracket?
There will be some tension, but there's enough travel to allow you to pull it back and turn it the right direction to reinstall it. But it wont affect the setting you have unless you squeezed the button on that part. Everything will stay as set now when you just turn it.
You're only releasing the part of the cable that sticks through the chrome bracket, not doing anything with the part behind where the click adjustment is.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
But it wont affect the setting you have unless you squeezed the button on that part.
Yeah ... the button was a bit stuck, so my mechanic had to take to it with some 'forcep' like grips!
 
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