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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fellas,

In my quest to perfect my problematic suspension, I stumbled onto Viking Performance shocks. http://www.vi-king.com/

As some of you know, I've updated my lower control arms to a set of Global West pieces and I have a set of custom GW leaf springs for the rear coming in. I've wanted a set of new rear shocks for some time and was looking at the single adjustable QA-1's over the KYB's I currently have.

In talking with Doug at GW, he mentioned the Viking shocks. The double adjustable Viking's are the same price as the single adjustable QA-1's and they're 100% made in the USA (in Minnesota). I got a set for the whole car and will be the guinea pig for the forum. I'll be running these with the GW leafs and 450 lb/in coil over springs on the front (which interchange with the same springs as QA-1 uses...2.5" ID). The Viking folks used to work at QA-1 btw...from what I've read. Shocks are rebuildable btw, just like QA-1's. Should be interesting!

I'll report back when I have everything installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just received the Viking shocks today...very nice pieces! Double adjustable for the same price as the single adjustable QA-1's. Still waiting on the thrust bearing before install though. A few pics:


 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Got my front end all tied up today, with one exception...my Hotckiss sway bar doesn't seem to fit with the new Global West lower control arms. Think I'm gonna have to move it forward about an inch, no biggie I hope.

Anyway, I set the height on the Viking coil-overs about 1/3 way up on the shock body (which is what their directions called for) and boy is she low now. I'm gonna have to raise her a bit...I can barely get a jack underneath the frame now and I'm sure the tires would rub in corners if I hit a bump at the same time.



The Vikings went in with no problems whatsoever using the same springs I was running with my Carerra shocks. The Viking stuff is very high quality and I'd recommend them to anyone looking for an alternative to QA-1. I also did some light suspension testing with my neighbor...with both of us pushing the car down in the front there are no squeaks even with these del-a-lum bushings it's perfectly quiet. No squeaks or rattles whatsoever!

I got halfway through swapping out the rear leafs and shocks and just ran out of time. Hopefully later this week I can finish it off and correct the ride height in the front. A big part of me loves the stance now, but I know I wouldn't even make it over a speed bump with it like this.
 

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Been looking at these and was wondering if there were any updates or Be-aware's we need to know about. It seems all the stuff I am reading is positive.
 

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Like 'em. Made in USA.

We have four on our 2" lowered car. The rears we bought a bit shorter than stock length, to avoid "stacking" the shock if fully compressed.

rear shocks - Viking Performance B222 for 67-69 single leaf Camaro. 12.32" compressed, 18.91" extended. 6.6" travel.
front shocks - Viking Performance B205 (lowering not a consideration due to using drop spindles).

I would like to point out, on the front shocks, the adjustment knobs will not clear the lower control arm opening when installing. I set the adjustments, removed the knobs, applied hot glue to the shafts, then installed. Still I had to file a bit on the control arm to clear the little shafts. If you have aftermarket lower control arms you might be good to go.

Below is a pic of a B222 rear shock installed on a '55 car. The upper brackets of the shock mount bar are made so they they kiss the trunk floor, to provide ample travel for the shock.



In case the rear axle looks odd, it's an Explorer 8.8 with rear discs, like hutchenc runs. 17" wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've had no issues with mine whatsoever since I bought them new.

As far as clearance on the front shock adjusting knobs goes...with my Global West LCA's, it's tight, but it does clear.

They're great shocks. Love the range of adjustability. If you ratchet them up to higher settings they will bounce you around quite a bit and you'll feel everything in the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you're going to the trouble to run coil-overs, just run coil-overs. No reason to run leaf springs and coil-overs. If your car is sagging in the rear it'd probably cheaper and easier to just replace the leaf springs.
 

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If you're going to the trouble to run coil-overs, just run coil-overs. No reason to run leaf springs and coil-overs. If your car is sagging in the rear it'd probably cheaper and easier to just replace the leaf springs.
I believe the only way to run coilovers in the rear is to use a 4 link, which is is expensive and a PITA for the exhaust.

I think you are correct about the leaf springs and should probably just start there. Thanks!
 
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