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Stock box has a little play in it. What is the procedure and what are the don't do's to tighten it up.

I've done some searching on the site with no success, if this has been discussed before appreciate being directed to that convo. Thanks.
 

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I do recall a member suggesting that you can tighten up the flat head screw on top of the steering box, you may also want to try to grease it first before you do any adjustments, some members have drilled and tapped a grease nipple, there should be some threads on it if you try a search.
 

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🐔County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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The stock manual steering does by design have some play in it.

Steve
I've never heard that before and my power steering which is the same box doesn't seem to have any play. But if I turn the wheel with the engine off, the power steering valve/shuttle does have play.
 

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I do recall a member suggesting that you can tighten up the flat head screw on top of the steering box, you may also want to try to grease it first before you do any adjustments, some members have drilled and tapped a grease nipple, there should be some threads on it if you try a search.
I take a bolt out and with a rubber tip pump grease into it. I've done it a lot in hopes of it not leaking gear oil out the bottom seal. I use hi-temp grease but with the headers, and one pipe only 1/8" from it, I guess even the hi-temp grease turns to a slurry and comes out.
My method for adjusting that screw with a locknut is to jack the wheels of the ground, with the wheel straight tighten the screws with very little pressure. Then turn the wheel left and right. If you can feel a very slight resistance as it goes past the middle, then loosen the screw a bit.
 

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I used the shop manual to rebuild my 57 unit and had no issues with it. Mine had an 1/8" PP in the top for lube and I just removed it and adapted my grease gun to it and pump quite a lot in. Don't fill it completely though the ballscrew needs room to slide. I replaced all bearings, bushings and seals but just cleaned and reassembled the ballscrew.

I virtually had no end play and was ≈ 1 lb pull on the steering wheel before installing the pitman arm. That is within preload range. Also, GM had a service bulletin stating to replace the oil with grease if customers complained of leaks.

Glenn

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If you box has a fair amount of use the worm and sector get a bit of wear enough that if you make it tight going straight ahead, you may find that when you make a turn the adjustment is too tight and the wheel will not return. So I do the adjustment at full lock, where there is little or no wear. I learned this on my 61 Corvette when I made it nice straight ahead but when I went around a tight right turn I let go of the wheel an started heading for the curb because the box was too tight away from center. Hope this helps.
 

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There are 2 places to adjust the box. If you adjust just the top screw, it will only do so much and even harm the internal parts. The most
often missed is the adjustment of end play. This is done by backing off the HUGE lock nut on the end of the box, and adjusting the large
end that screws into the box. After adjusting the end play, the HUGE nut is tightened to lock it in place. There are notches on the edge of
the HUGE nut to get it loose, and also to tighten it.
 
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