[1956Chevy2104Door]

Looking to build a 40x60x12 garage / shop, mainly to restore my 56 chevy 210 in, also to park my pickup and trailer and lawnmower in, as well as most the other "stuff" in my garage.
Of course lumber has to be stupid high right now. Was looking at a steel frame building, but discovered its another 5k in concrete to do footers, etc for that. So now leaning towards holding off till lumber comes down and going that route. Plan to do stud walls on the concrete. Everybody tells me I should be pipes in the floor for heating. Not sure if I'll use it enough to justify that or not. What is efficient way to heat a shop, esp one that won't be used on a daily basis? Considering do spray foam on the side walls and blow in insulation in the ceiling. Also considering putting an office in the one corner, so I can work from home if I want. Getting fiber internet installed on the 16th Thinking to lay it out that the garage doors will be on the front. So office will be in the front left corner, then a 10x10 garage door then a 10x14 garage door. What else should I consider?

 

[JohnMc]

I would not be concerned with air-conditioning or heating . I have a 2 post lift that is my favorite thing ever but you need
a 12 ft. ceiling. Also plumb air pressure all around with the compressor in an enclosed spot with insulation because it is loud. Electrical outlets need to all over the garage. I have many overhead lights of high wattage.

 

[BO185]

You’ll need footers either way. Typical with metal beam construction the footers are just under the beam locations. So not sure why they quoted you 5k more. Right now steel is pretty cheap and dropping daily. Also won’t rot or get eatten by termites.

Next best invesmentt you can make is spray foam On whole thing, ceiling too also HVAC System. Those are worth every dime.

 

[carls 56]

build it as big as you can (well insulated will help with keeping temp ok when inside it working)

 

[Churchkey]

Last 2 that I built I had monolithic slabs poured = slab & footing in one pour.

 

[fischkopf57]

Don't forget to get your 220V connections around the shop and throw in some internet CAT6 cable just for fun and if the budget allows.

 

[Rick_L]

I would spend the money up front to insulate a metal building. Even if you don't have heat and air, it will help with the temperatures in both hot and cold weather. It will reduce the needed capacity of a/c or heating. And it's next to impossible to do right after the initial build. Heat and a/c can be added later.

All those extra air lines and electrical outlets can wait if you have to. On the other hand, good lighting from the initial build is something you want to do.

 

[Robert Haas]

A lift, Or two lifts, I will be picking up a third lift this month

 

[1971BB427]

I'd consider making a 40'x60' with a divider curtain to allow you to heat or cool a work area, and not the whole shop. A sliding curtain is a nice feature for this, and allows for opening it up when needed also. And it can contain an area when you're doing grinding, or dirty work you don't want all over the shop.
Have a buddy who bought a curtain to divide off a two stall space for this purpose, and he has a small wood stove to heat it, and window AC built into the wall to cool it. I've worked in there with him comfortably winter or summer.

 

[chevman57]

I personally would go metal also. As far as the 12' walls, i would up that to 14 or 16' to allow for a loft for storage. I built my shop in 1986 and it has 12' walls and if i could do it again i would go taller for that reason alone.
Terry

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

I"m thinking to do a 36x50x12 or 14 now. I'll turn it the other direction and it will take less dirt work that way. I'm deciding against in floor heat since that would run around 6500 installed and I can get a heater and ac for around $3000. And I probably will use the ac more then heat.

 

[55 Tony]

I"m thinking to do a 36x50x12 or 14 now. I'll turn it the other direction and it will take less dirt work that way. I'm deciding against in floor heat since that would run around 6500 installed and I can get a heater and ac for around $3000. And I probably will use the ac more then heat.

Good choice on the heat and a/c. One of these years I'll get a mini split for my garage/shop to take the place of lp gas heat and a large a/c in a window. A heated slab can warm very slowly unless you leave it on when you aren't in there, but it is a big bonus if you are laying on the floor in the winter.

 

[Had a few Tri 5's]

The lift thing is a big deciding factor. Most are 12 ft tall. If you have a peaked roof, try for 12ft plus at the sides. This way you can put the lift anywhere. Also, think about it and have a footing poured where the lift might go. I had a 24"X12" 40ft long poured across the shop where I anticipated the lift going. Later, I had the option of installing it anywhere across the width of the shop. I had a door in the side, and the end so I could get about anything in there, and move things around easily without having to move 2 things to get the third out. My current shop in South Dakota is also heated....a necessity. I have in floor heat which is great. If you do that, plan out where you are going to bolt down the compressor, lift and so on. Leave the heat tubing out of those areas so you won't drill into them. I like the in floor heat because it heats all objects with radiant heat, not just the air blowing around. If you don't live in cold country, probably stick with regular furnace heat. Spray foam works awesome here in the cold north, but is expensive.....like $11,000 for a 50X50 with 18 foot walls. It is a real energy saver though.

 

[57R’villeHT]

I think you have to ask yourself, how much do you really plan to work in the the garage in extreme temps? I had a 40’ x 60’x16’ with 24’ center clear span uninsulated. I heated it for years with just a 300k btu kerosene torpedo heater w/thermostat. It did a pretty good job. I can only imagine how well it would have done if the building was insulated. This was a very economical option for occasional use.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

I'm putting up a 36x50x14 steel frame building. Actually cheaper then a wood frame with the price of lumber. Getting a bunch of fill hauled in tomorrow!

 

[Nevsat56]

i would think its cheaper to build a pole barn then to spend 5k in footers, i have 12' ceilings which is plenty for installing a lift. that extra 2' to go to 14 may do a number on the heating bill...... Spray foam insulation is wonderful too

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Got the pad finished yesterday

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[copymutt]

Consider a drive thru design. I.E. OH doors on 2 ends. Think boats, trailers, anything towed that needs to be brought in and then unhitched. Also helps w/ summer ventilation.

 

[DHR Darren]

Please don't take this wrong but that fill that was brought in will need to be compacted & allowed to set up before you can start construction. Straight dirt fill is very tough to use as base.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

It's been tracked in with a dozer as it was hauled in. Thought about the straight through design but the back end is 8-10ft high so that won't work out.

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