[Churchkey]

My guy ran a vibrating compactor over the clay fill & put Visqueen down before the stone. As soon as you can walk on the pour seal it with clear cement sealer it will slow cure bottom up. My Bud that builds storage units does it that way. He also scores 10 -12' rectangles with a concrete saw. I followed his advice my monolithic slab is 15 years old & no cracks however it is 6" thick on clay the Cherokee Indians used to make pottery.
For security the garage doors should be visible from the home. I use LED motion detectors they light up a 1/4 acre each & only draw about 32 watts power each. 2 large red LED's visible from the outside indicate the alarm is on.
I keep 1 overhead garage door opener remote in the home & have a key pad remote on a outside door jam = never need to mess with keys.
Luck with your shop.

 

[John McGraw]

One thing to keep in mind is the doors. A lot of guys will put in regular residential garage doors only to find that they can't raise the door with a car up on the lift! I put my lifts in several years after I built the garages, so I had to modify mine. Luckily, all my overhead doors are 8' in height, so my 4 post lifts can roll in and out of the doors to move them across the drive to the other shop. I had to high-lift all my doors however, so they go up close to the ceiling before they turn and go to the rear. There are kits available to convert a door to high lift, but it is best to do it will installing it the first time,

You also can not use a regular door opener on a high-lifted door, since they start going rearward as soon as they start moving, and they hang down in the way when raising a car on the lift. Liftmaster makes a slick jackshaft opener that mounts to the torsion tube on either side of the door, and raises the door by turning the torsion tube. I have 3 of them at my place and have never had a moments problem with any of them. It is the Liftmaster 8500.

I double stack cars on my lifts, so a hight-lifted door was an absolute must!

 

[56ls408]

I made the mistake of not having the tracks follow the vaulted ceiling when I built my garage I do have a jack lift Liftmaster 8' door so I can use my lift but I knocked the door out of the track a few times early on & have to be very careful when raising it with a car up on the lift. I keep thinking I'll have a garage door company redo the tracks but haven't in 14 years so likely won't get done.

 

[John McGraw]

I made the mistake of not having the tracks follow the vaulted ceiling when I built my garage I do have a jack lift Liftmaster 8' door so I can use my lift but I knocked the door out of the track a few times early on & have to be very careful when raising it with a car up on the lift. I keep thinking I'll have a garage door company redo the tracks but haven't in 14 years so likely won't get done.

I had no success if finding a door company to do mine, everybody just wanted to sell me a new door! I finally gave up and found an online company out of Chicago that put together a complete kit to do it myself. Took me about 2 hours per door to unwind the springs, pull out the lift drums and cables, insert the new track sections, and install the new springs, cable and lift drums.

I lived with mine for a while after installing the lifts, but after damaging the paint on a freshly painted car, I threw in the towel and installed the high lift kits.

 

[56ls408]

I only have one door & one lift to contend with the other two doors are regular style openers as those ceilings are flat 9' ceilings like you I ask a couple places who weren't interested. I been fortunate in the few times I had a car up in the air& screwed up opening the door it hit where no paint was damaged just lucky.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

I'm having a 12ft high garage door and I'm most likely putting the lift farther inside so that shouldn't be an issue. Had a steady rain all day Saturday so concrete didn't get done on Tuesday and its going to be frigid all next week so the pad is definitely getting a chance to settle.

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[DHR Darren]

I tried and tried and tried to get a quote on a finished shop or a kit and only one company returned with a price of $271000 that was without electrical or plumbing. I just went ahead and bought a shop and will make do.

 

[Granpa49!!]

It looks big enough for your '55.

 

[DHR Darren]

I think it may fit. 🤣

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Nice! Esp that crane hoist. Now you have plenty of room for a trifive collection.

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[DHR Darren]

Nice! Esp that crane hoist. Now you have plenty of room for a trifive collection.

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Honestly, that was a big push for me so I could have my personal shop back at home for hotrods!

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Got footers poured Monday and the floor today!

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[dogface1972]

Looks good. Looks like you have a nice view there. If the house across the street? That would be nice in the fall. Sit on your porch and look at the cars in the driveway across from the house. Any ability to pipe in water? Slop sinks are nice for light washing....hoses too.

 

[57R’villeHT]

Exciting times ahead. Looks to be coming together for you.

 

[Hayes55]

Looking to build a 40x60x12 garage / shop, mainly to restore my 56 chevy 210 in, also to park my pickup and trailer and lawnmower in, as well as most the other "stuff" in my garage.
Of course lumber has to be stupid high right now. Was looking at a steel frame building, but discovered its another 5k in concrete to do footers, etc for that. So now leaning towards holding off till lumber comes down and going that route. Plan to do stud walls on the concrete. Everybody tells me I should be pipes in the floor for heating. Not sure if I'll use it enough to justify that or not. What is efficient way to heat a shop, esp one that won't be used on a daily basis? Considering do spray foam on the side walls and blow in insulation in the ceiling. Also considering putting an office in the one corner, so I can work from home if I want. Getting fiber internet installed on the 16th Thinking to lay it out that the garage doors will be on the front. So office will be in the front left corner, then a 10x10 garage door then a 10x14 garage door. What else should I consider?

Here's mine. Heat and air conditioning AND I have a dehumidifier (Louisiana). 2 post lift, spray foam insulation. 30x50.. beer fridge, sink, hot water heater, shower, toilet, couches
It's perfect. I did the epoxy floors. Wish I had insulated doors though.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Nice shop there @Hayes55 . Mine should be similiar but I'm planning on spray foaming the walls as well and have liner panel on the bottom 9ft. The diamond metal looks good tho. And the epoxy flooring. I do have a sleeve in to put water in down the road. I'd have to trench in from the well house behind the house and since I just tore up the yard 3 yrs ago to redo it I'm not inclined to at this point. I can run hoses down from the front of the house if needed.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Finally got it installed today! They started at 7 and were done by 3.30 except for the ridgecap which wasn't ready yet. And someone forgot the side metal so they had to run back for that, fortunately it wasn't to far. The garage door is 11-13wks out when I ordered it 2wks ago. Still waiting on Ameren to replace the pole and transformer, then the electrician can run power to it.

 

[carls 56]

you got to be excited, been awhile getting to this point.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Yes I'm sure glad it's finally up! Spending more than I ever dreamed but I guess that's why you save your money in the first place. If I was ordering now the price would be almost double! Spray foam should be done in the first week of Sept.

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[Granpa49!!]

That's nearly an industrial level building. That center bent should hold up a lot.