[1956Chevy2104Door]

Installed a dusk to dawn led wall pack. I'd gotten a hykolity brand one first since that's the brand of the ufo lights I used but it didn't have a flat back and was designed to only be mounted on a box. This was on Amazon and has 2 screws and a hinge. I predrilled holes on the sides and screwed it to the ribs. I need to wire in an outlet on the inside. Its on a switch because I don't neccassarily want it on all night.

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[wingnut62]

Nice shop. Just finished adding to my existing shop myself. Went through all the same gyrations that you've experienced during the build process. The mini split is the way to go for sure. I used led light strips and my shop is very bright unlike my old side. My new side isn't as large as yours but it's working so far. 47k turn key so I was at my limit. Old shop 30x50...addon 30x30. Essentially 2400 sq ft. As someone else said in another post, more space = more stuff.

 

[RHussJr]

Finally got the minisplit powered up. Now have heat and ac! Overhead door should be installed on Wednesday, then it will finally be done. Pretty much a year later.

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My current project for holding current projects. 1800sqft of shop and man cave.

 

[sageguy]

Looking to build a 40x60x12 garage / shop, mainly to restore my 56 chevy 210 in, also to park my pickup and trailer and lawnmower in, as well as most the other "stuff" in my garage.
Of course lumber has to be stupid high right now. Was looking at a steel frame building, but discovered its another 5k in concrete to do footers, etc for that. So now leaning towards holding off till lumber comes down and going that route. Plan to do stud walls on the concrete. Everybody tells me I should be pipes in the floor for heating. Not sure if I'll use it enough to justify that or not. What is efficient way to heat a shop, esp one that won't be used on a daily basis? Considering do spray foam on the side walls and blow in insulation in the ceiling. Also considering putting an office in the one corner, so I can work from home if I want. Getting fiber internet installed on the 16th Thinking to lay it out that the garage doors will be on the front. So office will be in the front left corner, then a 10x10 garage door then a 10x14 garage door. What else should I consider?

For your power outlets, space them every 6' and 48" high from the floor. Install at least a quad outlet (4 receptacles) at every location and you should be OK. The additional cost of a quad outlet vs. a duplex outlet is about $2.50 and this will save you a lot of future hassles. Been there, done that.

 

[vich57]

For Southern California, I certainly would not spring for in-floor heat.
A gas furnace hung from the ceiling might be an option that wouldn't cost too much. Store combustibles in a lean-to outside.
I also like electric baseboard 220v heaters with oil-filled tube radiators.
You might need A/C, at least in the office. A window unit might be good enough. Otherwise, provide cross ventilation for the main shop using strategically placed doors and windows, to take advantage of prevailing summer breezes.
Insulate well, of course. I'm not a fan of spray foam -- too many pending lawsuits to suit me. I like rockwool, but then you ought to sheathe the interior walls and ceiling, which adds to the cost.
Wire and plumb for a 220v air compressor. Perhaps also in a separate lean-to outside. (Here in the Pacific Northwest, I keep the compressor inside the shop.)
Adding a lift is a whole 'nother discussion.

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

There not every 6ft but I got 4 outlets in every box.

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[rudyarddominik]

I like the insides of the garage a lot! Everything is neat and clean. I used to think that the white color is not for a garage, but it, on the contrary, helps to make the space bigger and lighter. When I am building my own garage, I will also go for a white solution, most probably.
But I still think that it would be better to build concrete walls because the climate in the area I live is rather unpredictable. It can be both extremely cold and hot, so I would need an additional layer of insulation. I know some local construction workers who are masters of concrete work, and I would trust this work for sure.

 

[OkieCruzer]

First class! This looks amazing!! Congrats!

 

[1956Chevy2104Door]

Picked up this pallet racking locally. The bottom feet were rusted so I welded new ones on, pressure washed the board shelving and touched up the paint on them. Could use more of them full height to more efficiently store stuff.

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[Granpa49!!]

I went low ball on my building to have more money for the car. It is built against the end of my house which saved the material for one wall and the opposite wall is open. That allowed me to roll the chassis into the basement to finish it and save floor space In bad weather I just find something else to do. I had a slab already poured as an apron on which I built the building. I ordered the 2x4 14 gauge tubing and laid out the trusses and welded them on my slab, then stood them in place with my tractor. I finished it with flashing and custom eaves that I had formed by the siding supplier so it would not detract from my house. It is 35' wide and 24' from front to back. Admitedly it isn't as nice as some of the shops in this string and no room for a lift. So far it has been plenty large enough for the project but as I am moving more and more stuff into it it is getting a bit crowded. If you build it, you will fill it.

 

[vich57]

If you build it, you will fill it.

Ain't it the truth!

 

[Granpa49!!]

There is a huge industry for the used pallet racks. you can pick them up for about a third the cost of new ones. If you have a business near you that sells the used ones you can probably pick up what you need for very little. Load ratings vary but a pair of 5" deep rails will hold about 7000 pounds. You just about can't overload them if you are stowing car parts on them and they are very stable. I have even seen people use them for walls and build a roof over a parallel run of pallet racks to build a shop. They attached the siding to the backside of the pallet racks to make walls.