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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,
I'm a new 57' Nomad owner. I bought a beautiful restored car and the doors don't close right. The door gaps are perfect and the hinge pins are not worn, but I've got to really slam the doors to get them to latch. The drivers door is a little worse, it pops out when you push the button - but both are a struggle to close. The weather strip is brand new and I've heard that can be part of the problem, but I don't think it should be this bad.
I would greatly appreciate any advice on what to do first to correct this?
Thank you, Jeff
 

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Jeff .. first thing i would do is adjust the striker plate on the 1/4 post straight out about 1/16 .. see if that helps be carefull to not get it higher or lower , possibly mark with a pencil. You might have to adjust the front hinges out as well , but that can lead to having to adjust frt fenders ouit as well ..hope this helps
 
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:hello: hi jeff and welcome. good to have you here. try what fred suggested and let us know if that helped. :anim_25:
 

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If the door adjustment is good, but they're hard to close, it's probably just your new weatherstrip. Give it some time to conform and see if it gets better. If it doesn't, I'd replace the weatherstrip with some that's softer. DO NOT attempt a door adjustment if the gaps and everything else looks good now...you will regret it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice!

Jim,
I appreciate your advising that adjustment book, I just ordered it.

Fred,
I might try moving the striker out 1/16", but the door lines up so nice with the rear quarter, I'd hate to have it stick out.

Chevynut, I think the weather strip is where I'm going to start, maybe removing it all and seeing how the doors close. I'm not sure where the restorer got the weather strip he used, maybe Danchuk, but I may try to search another weather strip vendor if I find the door closes well without the strip.

Do you guys have any recommendation for a good "soft" door weatherstrip?
 

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If you are considering replacing the weatherstrip, locate a vendor who sells T&N brand. They are the best fitting and softer than others. The problem you have is not uncommon and there's a good chance that will be your fix. As stated above, don't mess with the door adjustments. If your unsure as to where to go first, why not remove the weatherstrip and see if the door closes ok without it.
 

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door ajustment

Jeff I'm going with Fred On this one. If you mark the position of the striker and move it out by 1/16 inch the lines might stay the same but with less pressure on the door due to the new stripping. If that doesn't fix it, then change the stripping. I always try the simple and less costly fix first. You can always move the striker back to it's original position. You can use a pencil to mark the position of the striker and remove the mark without hurting the paint.

Jim
 

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Door Adjustment

I had severe difficulties with my front doors are installing the LS-1
& 6 speed. I removed the hood, fenders, core support and,.....

A life long friend of mine is very skilled with most body adjustments,
including glass install and fitting on Tri-5's, I needed help

We adjusted the doors to the rear quarter panel first, strikers and weather
striping removed !!

Then we set the doors to match the rocker panels to body. Sounds easy, took hours.

Next we adjusted the doors to match cowl at the wind shield.

Steve had us complete these adjustments first because as we all
know the quarter panel, rocker panels and wind shield cowl are fixed to the body.

Now, you should know that we did this adjustment squence "many times" in
small adjustment - takes time.

I tired this with the latch and weather strip installed. I could never get the
proper alignment. Steve told me to read more...

The last thing is my door windows pilars, like most, we to far from the body.
Steve says NO Problem - We have to bent them to fit. This works and it is amazing

- but we removed the glass. Be careful if you leave the glass installed.

The next step was the hood and fender, arg...

We finally installed the latch and set it in place, used blueing on the latch.
A Magin marker works faster....

Once the latch is fit and level we carefully installed the weather striping.
We did need to move the latch "in" a slight amount.

The only final adjustment was to pull out the door slightly at the cowl to
fit the weather striping. The door was to close to the cowl making the
dollar bill to tight and the door "tough" to close..

Steve's trick to test the door fit with weather striping installed is to
place a Dollar Bill in the door and close the door. Gently pull the dollar bill,
it should slide out with a slight tension. We did this in about 10 places on
the door.

If you are patient and luckey it goes quickely. The most difficult part is
re-adjusting the door without moving it to far or in the wrong direction.

I cut a 2x6 and notched it to fit under the door and cover it with a
shop towel -taped in place. This helped us to make slight adjustments.

We supported the door with "Screw" adjustable stands and used blue tape
at various places on the fenders and doors to check to movement..

It takes time and repeating the process. I'd Rather pull and re-build a
6 speed tranny any day than adjust doors or the hood !!

The last thing we did was to drill 1/4 inch holes through the door hinges.
If I ever have to remove the door or ??? I can insert a 1/4 pin and the
doors are pre-set...

Good Luck... and tape your paint !!!

Michael.............
 

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Hi Folks,
I'm a new 57' Nomad owner. I bought a beautiful restored car and the doors don't close right. The door gaps are perfect and the hinge pins are not worn, but I've got to really slam the doors to get them to latch. The drivers door is a little worse, it pops out when you push the button - but both are a struggle to close. The weather strip is brand new and I've heard that can be part of the problem, but I don't think it should be this bad.
I would greatly appreciate any advice on what to do first to correct this?
Thank you, Jeff
Hi Jeff, I just finished what you're in the process of doing, with my '56 wagon. I don't have a whole lot of experience with these things, but as a last resort, would I ever fool with the door hinges. Your post states that the gaps are perfect, therefore, I'd leave them alone. Could the weatherstrip be in backwards and this might allow the door to pop out when opened? I know it took me a while to figure out the proper way to install this even though it came with directions (Danchuck). I'm thinking like a couple of the other members; the striker plate. I would try to making an adjustment here first. I'm thinking out loud here. If the doors have to be slammed to close, then aren't they struggling to lock. And, if they pop when opening, they appear to be under pressure. I'm thinking that the striker plate has to be moved out to make quicker contact. I also like the idea of marking it first before moving it. I used blue painters tape around the striker and then penciled it in so that I could see my progress. When I was done, I removed the tape with no problem. If this adjustment fails, then I would definitely take off the weatherstrip and start from there. You have alot of good ideas and support from members, so I'm sure you'll figure it out. Let us know. Good luck, Carmine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Michael, Carmine and Jim,
All good suggestions!
I'm going to study it more tomorrow. I guess I shouldn't be chicken about moving the striker a little, providing I mark it first.
I'll also look to see if the weather strip is possibly installed wrong. I'm thinking it may not be the softest available, I understand T&N is the place to go for weather strip.
One thing, I can't risk damaging the paint, it's spectacular.
 

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If the weatherstrip has the molded ends, it's hard to imagine it being installed wrong. Also, why would you move the striker if the door is even with the quarter in back? I guess I don't understand that way of thinking. You're going to make the door stick out past the quarter if you do that. Plus, I thought you said it felt tight up at the front of the door so moving the striker will do nothing to solve that.

I say your weatherstrip is too stiff. I don't know where to get T&N weatherstrip. Anyone try Soffseal?
 

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AIRC, putting the w/s on backwards results in a less/no seal condition, not too tite..
 

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If the weatherstrip has the molded ends, it's hard to imagine it being installed wrong. Also, why would you move the striker if the door is even with the quarter in back? I guess I don't understand that way of thinking. You're going to make the door stick out past the quarter if you do that. Plus, I thought you said it felt tight up at the front of the door so moving the striker will do nothing to solve that.

I say your weatherstrip is too stiff. I don't know where to get T&N weatherstrip. Anyone try Soffseal?
I'm with Chevynut all the way on this one. If your lines are perfect as you say then do not adjust anything! I'm in the trade and have been through this issue with stiff seals too many times to count. Replace your weather strip with T&N and you will be good to go. It "may" be a little tight for a few days but it will settle in very nicely. You will be able to get all your T&N seals at OL'55 in Doylestown PA. 215-348-5568, Ask for Jack or Ken and they will set you up with everything you need.
As for Soffseal that is probably what the problem is now, They are too dense and do not compress enough even with time to stop your door from popping when you release it.

-Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After removing the top window weather strip, the door closes beautiful. The weather strip is embossed with Danchuk's name.
The problems seems to be the fit where the vent window and weather strip come in contact,there isn't enough room between the top of the vent window frame and the bottom of the weatherstrip, it's not allowing the vent window to go under the strip, it pushes against it, which is what's making the door hard to close and it pops out when opening it.
This is a Nomad specific weather strip, it curves around the glass, but the only issue seems to be where the vent window is.
Anyone have experience with modifying this weather strip?
 

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Glad to see you've made progress. Is the other door ok? If so, look to it as a reference. Got to love those Danchuck seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi 57sc,
I agree, I'd love to find some original Nomad weather strips, just to see the difference. Meanwhile, I'm going to try to cut mine down to fit.
Jeff
 

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After removing the top window weather strip, the door closes beautiful. The weather strip is embossed with Danchuk's name.
The problems seems to be the fit where the vent window and weather strip come in contact,there isn't enough room between the top of the vent window frame and the bottom of the weatherstrip, it's not allowing the vent window to go under the strip, it pushes against it, which is what's making the door hard to close and it pops out when opening it.
This is a Nomad specific weather strip, it curves around the glass, but the only issue seems to be where the vent window is.
Anyone have experience with modifying this weather strip?
Before you start cutting, it seems to me that the vent window can be adjusted so it leans out on top a little more. I think the track has a screw on it for that purpose. Bruce, is that the case???
 
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