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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to replace/install a smaller diameter wheel on my 57. Cant say its China junk...but definitely has several problems in manufacturing this wheel. Bought from CPP, 300 + then painted to match 150+...It didn't fit all the way on the shaft so needed to ‘clean up’ the taper..fits ok now...but the real problem in the horn works ( i know, whats wrong with that, most i read abut it does not work) well it blows all the time, I have removed the wheel a couple hundred time in the last 6 hours. To me this design is about the worst GM could come up with. Now the Chineese wheel...the plastic parts seem to be part of the problem, tightening the 3 screws locks the horn ring down tight aginst the wheel sounding the horn.
oh yea, just go ahead and break off the tabs to change the CLASSIC emblem to install the Bel Air emblem, i used silicon to hold the Bel Air plastic emblem in plac.
I do not recommend this wheel ..stock style looks nice, but to many problem installing.
 

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I have one too and I hate it. Less than a year old and already cracked. Plus the turn signal cancellation does not work on one side. I have adjusted it four times and it still does not work .
Don't buy chinese Classic steering wheel.
 

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I had the same issue when installing my OE stock wheel. I am not saying that it is not your replacement wheel, but the horn assembly is tricky. It took me several hour before I finally got it right.
 

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This may help other members avoid purchasing that type/style of wheel, but the question remains is there anything we can suggest that will get your wheel working as it was intended?
 

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A push button starter switch mounted in the floor next to the dimmer switch works well for horn blowing.
Mounted under the carpet = hidden works well as an anti theft device wired in series with the start circuit. Those of you with a clutch pedal use it to push the button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going to Danchuck tomorrow to buy the horn kit..i think the thee leg pkastic spacer and metal plate may be the issue. The plastic spacer may have just a little short standoffs.
lve installed a horn switch before but now I like to have mist everything as intened..just bugs me when something doesn’t work
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Going to Danchuck tomorrow to buy the horn kit..i think the thee leg pkastic spacer and metal plate may be the issue. The plastic spacer may have just a little short standoffs.
lve installed a horn switch before but now I like to have mist everything as intened..just bugs me when something doesn’t work
One problem with the aftermarket wheels, the horn ring is not always the same thickness as stock horn rings, so stock parts have to be modified. As you mentioneed, the 3 legged retainer may have to be shimmed with some plastic washers to keep it from compressing the cupped washer too much.
 

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hope new kit does the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One problem with the aftermarket wheels, the horn ring is not always the same thickness as stock horn rings, so stock parts have to be modified. As you mentioneed, the 3 legged retainer may have to be shimmed with some plastic washers to keep it from compressing the cupped washer too much.
Added some shims, did not help
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One problem with the aftermarket wheels, the horn ring is not always the same thickness as stock horn rings, so stock parts have to be modified. As you mentioneed, the 3 legged retainer may have to be shimmed with some plastic washers to keep it from compressing the cupped washer too much.
Cup washer is about the stupidest design, makes contact with the wheel and the contact plunger irregardless of shims or not. Also horn ring was a little loose with shims
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Cup washer is about the stupidest design, makes contact with the wheel and the contact plunger irregardless of shims or not. Also horn ring was a little loose with shims
When the cupped washer is placed on the wheel like an upside down saucer, the outside edge should sit on the insulated non-conductive part of the wheel, outside of the steel center hub. Outside the "gray" area in this drawing. Link to drawing. The contact plunger stays in contact with the cupped washer at all times. When the cupped washer is compressed with the notched spacer by the horn ring, then the center part of the cupped washer makes contact with the gray bare metal part of the hub. Make sure the center hole in the cupped washer is not contacting the steering wheel nut or washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Final chapter to the story....
the horn doesn't blow...all the time, ONLY when i push the horn ring..SUCCESS!!!. Invested another 5 hours yesterday. The fix?, well I painted the metal hub 4 coats of paint to isolate the metal cup washer..that didn't do the trick so last desperate act? I taped both sides of cup contact so nothing but a small are of the metal could make contact with the horn plunger WHEN you push the ring. Hey, a fix is a fix!
comparing the small wheel with the original, it appears the the spring cup plate sits on the shoulder or the wheel(not metal) the smaller diameter wheel was molded with that shoulder step a little larger so no mater what I tried the spring plate touched metal (gray area on Danchucks drawing.
 
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