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Cocke County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Too many to choose from. I wish they had a rating system so I knew how stiff they are. I am on a limited budget so top end stuff is definitely out of the question. I saw these online. Front is 1" rear 7/8". Price includes shipping.

http://www.performanceonline.com/19...ERFORMANCE-SWAY-BAR-KIT-FRONT-and-REAR-19369/

Is the major advantage of the hollow tube ones their light weight? Weight isn't much of a concern to me. Are the mid priced tube ones about the same stiffness, just lighter weight?

Tony
 

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You know, as light as these cars are, they don't need an 1-1/2" bar.... I used the Addco 7/8" and that was the heaviest thing on the front end...
There is a tendency to way over kill modifications on this site (and most others) Most of the products recommended are definitely top of the line, and likely "over the top". Best to pick what works for you.... kind of like sneakers, don't buy a pair of Air Jordan's just because everyone else has a pair and swears by them. If WalMart Starting Line sneakers work to stomp around the garage, that's great. When you start playing in the NBA, then buy a shoe to fit that purpose.
Same holds true for many of the modifications people are making on their cars. I was pondering a set of Cal Trac bars and then asked myself.... why for normal street driving, no race track runs, would I spend triple the cost of a pair of slappers, that by the way worked well for 50 years? Still haven't decided. I know everyone will respond with how much better they are and that's true. But, when I buy a "get to work car" a Chevy is just fine, even if a Bugatti Galibier 16C is likely a better vehicle. Now the Chevy at $20K and the Bugatti at $1.5Million, helped me make my decision!!
To each his own, But why buy more than you need?
 

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I have just put on 1'' Moog brand front stabilizer bar, the difference in handling is amazing.
I don't intend putting on a rear stabilizer as I think it handles well enough now for the type of driving I do. ( mainly flat and straight roads)
Certainly anything will be better than nothing, it's up to you to decide how much money you spend against what level of handling you require.

Cheers -stu :bowtieb:
 

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Have you read the I made my own sway bar sticky? If you are on a budget, that's the answer.
 
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Tony, only put about 4000 miles on it but have the Addco 7/8" from Ecklers several years ago. Love it, does perfect. I have absolutely no need for a 1 1/2" bar. :bowtier:

There is no need for a rear sway bar on mine.
 

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Tony, only put about 4000 miles on it but have the Addco 7/8" from Ecklers several years ago. Love it, does perfect. I have absolutely no need for a 1 1/2" bar. :bowtier:

There is no need for a rear sway bar on mine.
Yep did the same here with the addco, and best thing also was it cleared my front mounted calipers that the others won't do. Great upgrade and should have done it years ago.
 

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Tony, only put about 4000 miles on it but have the Addco 7/8" from Ecklers several years ago. Love it, does perfect. I have absolutely no need for a 1 1/2" bar. :bowtier:

There is no need for a rear sway bar on mine.
also got the 7/8 ones from eckler's for a 55 I had, they were great. :tu
 

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The stiffness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter cubed. (diameter x diameter x diameter). For a solid bar. So the diameter makes a big difference.

For a tubular bar, it's proportional to the outside diameter cubed minus the inside diameter cubed. If you run some numbers, you'll see that a hollow bar of a given diameter is nearly as stiff as a solid bar, but it's much lighter. And while reducing unsprung weight is important, most of the weight of a bar is sprung weight.

That's a start. It's also affected by the sway bar length (distance between the bends) and the length of the bends.

The nice thing about a sway bar is that it really doesn't affect ride much. A lot of guys including racers like soft springs and stiff sway bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies! I didn't know the free shipping deal ended YESTERDAY! I ended up ordering the 1" front bar and they gave me a special price to half way offset the shipping charges, ended up about the same price as JEGS.
Thanks again,
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have you read the I made my own sway bar sticky? If you are on a budget, that's the answer.
Since I have never installed one before and didn't know how to do it on the 55, and the closest Pull-A-Part is about 50 miles away, I went and spent the money and bought one. Sometimes I need to read the directions.:sign0020:
 

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Rebuilt front suspension, steering linkage, new shocks and rear sway bar...made my 57 ride like it never did when it left the show room. :anim_25:
 

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love it!

this said it all. thanks Rick L.
The stiffness of the sway bar is proportional to the diameter cubed. (diameter x diameter x diameter). For a solid bar. So the diameter makes a big difference.

For a tubular bar, it's proportional to the outside diameter cubed minus the inside diameter cubed. If you run some numbers, you'll see that a hollow bar of a given diameter is nearly as stiff as a solid bar, but it's much lighter. And while reducing unsprung weight is important, most of the weight of a bar is sprung weight.

That's a start. It's also affected by the sway bar length (distance between the bends) and the length of the bends.

The nice thing about a sway bar is that it really doesn't affect ride much. A lot of guys including racers like soft springs and stiff sway bars.
 
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